[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

I’ll keep the chiller and add ice too. …… got ‘em!

Touché!

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by JSH

Have you concluded yet that it's their way or the highway?

Did you get your 2650 yet? I remember myself and a few others making that suggestion to you several times a few months ago. I'm glad to see you finally ordered one. I'm just curious tho, why not stick with your ported stock blower?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I’m telling you with NO ICE, on that same day, my setup will show 110 degrees at wide open throttle.

What is your setup?

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

What is your setup?

It was just stock HX's with a Stewart EMP pump (bypassed OEM) from a 6 gallon tank. Getting a little more wild now and removing the HX's since I don't care about how fast I run 60-130 after 30 minutes of being on the road.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

It was just stock HX's with a Stewart EMP pump (bypassed OEM) from a 6 gallon tank. Getting a little more wild now and removing the HX's since I don't care about how fast I run 60-130 after 30 minutes of being on the road.

Is your tank ambient or iced

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by JSH

Is your tank ambient or iced

He has an ice tank JSH, no heat exchangers. Fully built 427. He runs 8.48 @ 162. 1150whp. New new build is 1400+ rwhp and hes trying for 7's.


But you know how it is cause you car ran 6's.

Look here: https://instagram.com/zl1atlanta?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

He has an ice tank JSH, no heat exchangers. Fully built 427. He runs 8.48 @ 162. 1150whp. New new build is 1400+ rwhp and hes trying for 7's.


But you know how it is cause you car ran 6's.

Look here: https://instagram.com/zl1atlanta?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

He is correct. Except for the 8.48 never reading higher than 1,119 RWHP. I like lower dyno numbers showing higher trap speeds. Lol

[JSH]

Camaro1973
"But you know how it is cause your car ran 6's."

For at least the 10th time, I'll bet you any amount you chose over $1k that my car ran 6's. But you won't do it because you know you'll lose. Is there a "chicken" emoji here?

It's true that I do know how it is to runs 6's, but of course you don't!

CW3SF posted last week that he's verified what I'm saying. That's not good enough for you

You're obviously just feeling insignificant.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

He is correct. Except for the 8.48 never reading higher than 1,119 RWHP. I like lower dyno numbers showing higher trap speeds. Lol

Here's a cool ZL1 trunk ice tank build video ...

[Bangkok_ZL1]

This message is for Camaro1973 and BlaqWhole…. So you’re both advocating an Interchiller on your DD, Correct? Because I live in Thailand, it’s midnight now and it’s usually 80 degrees with 90% humidity. And it’s pretty much like this 8 months a year. So an Interchiller does make sense to me, but I’ve heard others say it could cause issues with the compressor. Being here in Bangkok, I have no support from Chevy. I just can’t go buy a compressor. On the other hand, if it’s working well for a decent period of time. I’m all in. My car is a DD that will shortly be converted to E50ish. I do plan to track it in time. Now it’s just my toy street machine. My biggest question, if I decide to add this to my overall build. Should I have the car tuned without the Interchiller and then add it (so the car would be tuned to the heat and then timing could just be added as the computer realizes colder air is available). Or should I bolt it all in and then have it tuned with the stable cold air.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

This message is for Camaro1973 and BlaqWhole…. So you’re both advocating an Interchiller on your DD, Correct? Because I live in Thailand, it’s midnight now and it’s usually 80 degrees with 90% humidity. And it’s pretty much like this 8 months a year. So an Interchiller does make sense to me, but I’ve heard others say it could cause issues with the compressor. Being here in Bangkok, I have no support from Chevy. I just can’t go buy a compressor. On the other hand, if it’s working well for a decent period of time. I’m all in. My car is a DD that will shortly be converted to E50ish. I do plan to track it in time. Now it’s just my toy street machine. My biggest question, if I decide to add this to my overall build. Should I have the car tuned without the Interchiller and then add it (so the car would be tuned to the heat and then timing could just be added as the computer realizes colder air is available). Or should I bolt it all in and then have it tuned with the stable cold air.

You are using your AC anyway, so why not just use an interchiller also? You can turn off the AC on the dyno to see if there is any difference in how much timing you can run. That's the nice part about it, get it cold see what it does then turn the ac off and see what it does. This way your safe when hot.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

You are using your AC anyway, so why not just use an interchiller also? You can turn off the AC on the dyno to see if there is any difference in how much timing you can run. That's the nice part about it, get it cold see what it does then turn the ac off and see what it does. This way your safe when hot.

Will be remotely tuned. I don’t trust anybody here. But, I’m thinking the same way. Have it tuned to the regular air here and then put in the system and the computer should like the cold air. I will run this by my tuner first. But it’s always nice hearing what people say who actually have and are using the product…. Yes, there is NO driving here without the A/C very long. It runs full time. And of course gas mileage and performance is a bit hurt. But it’s part of driving here. How many times have you hit full throttle with the A/C on. Do you or can you or better, have you done it often (enough to share some experience)?

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

This message is for Camaro1973 and BlaqWhole…. So you’re both advocating an Interchiller on your DD, Correct? Because I live in Thailand, it’s midnight now and it’s usually 80 degrees with 90% humidity. And it’s pretty much like this 8 months a year. So an Interchiller does make sense to me, but I’ve heard others say it could cause issues with the compressor. Being here in Bangkok, I have no support from Chevy. I just can’t go buy a compressor. On the other hand, if it’s working well for a decent period of time. I’m all in. My car is a DD that will shortly be converted to E50ish. I do plan to track it in time. Now it’s just my toy street machine. My biggest question, if I decide to add this to my overall build. Should I have the car tuned without the Interchiller and then add it (so the car would be tuned to the heat and then timing could just be added as the computer realizes colder air is available). Or should I bolt it all in and then have it tuned with the stable cold air.

I'm not really an "advocate" for the chiller. All this time I have just been emphasizing the advantages of the chiller for DD use especially in high temp and high humidity climates.

What you want to do is have it installed when the weather is hot. That way they can add/charge the refrigerant accurately. And then have it tuned. I don't think it matters what temp it gets tuned in. But my suggestion would be that when outside temps get colder, you might want to have some datalogs looked over to make sure all is well with it. It isn't necessary but it won't hurt.

As far as issues with the compressor, I don't think you will have any. These units wouldn't sell if they were known for causing issues with the AC components. So you should be fine. But if you are worried, then maybe buy a used compressor from someone and have it shipped to you and then you'll have a spare if you need it.

I haven't had mine installed yet. I'm planning to have it done soon tho. I'm just still debating on whether or not to go with a 416 and have the chiller installed at the same time or to do it as a stand alone install or to hold off and do some mods on my other cars first. But my goal is to have it installed either way by the end of the year.

[Katech_Zach]

Without getting into crazy detail, and giving my feedback based on data we have from customer cars (chiller only, ice tank only, chiller and ice tank, stock, etc)...

Regardless of method, it all comes down to simple thermodynamics. What you are looking to do is increase the cooling capacity of the system. For the sake of simplicity, lets call our cooling agent 100% pure water. It requires 8.33 BTU of heat energy to raise one gallon of water 1 deg F. This is linear, so if you double the amount of water (2 gallons), it will either take twice the amount of heat energy to heat water 1 deg in the same time, or it will take twice the amount of time with the same fixed amount of energy.

When you add water capacity (expansion tank, ice tank, etc).... You are not changing the rate that your cooling system can remove heat from the water. What you are doing is increasing the amount of time it takes for that water to heat up.

When you change a heat exchanger, or add an interchiller, you are changing the rate that the system can remove heat from the water.

There are benefits to both. Being able to remove heat more effectively is great, and having less heat to remove is also just as great.

It is absolutely pointless arguing that one is better than the other, because you are changing two completely different parts of the system.

Both have very good benefits. The only gripe I have about the interchiller, is you are not technically allowed to run your AC at any track (drag strip or road course). The condensation/moisture build up will drip on the track, and cause a hazard.