[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Corrupt

It does look like there is a gap. So maybe putting a bigger plug head with washer would seal better or am i going to need a new oil pan witch is back order till who know when. They said if it is bad that it would take 13 hours to fix plus time what ever it take to order new one which are back order

13 hours, 113 hours... doesn't really matter. It's under warranty and it's on GM's dime to get it fixed. I'd be glad this issue cropped up early and you're going to be able to get it fixed.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by Corrupt

It does look like there is a gap. So maybe putting a bigger plug head with washer would seal better or am i going to need a new oil pan witch is back order till who know when. They said if it is bad that it would take 13 hours to fix plus time what ever it take to order new one which are back order

Only thing I can think of other than changing pan is get a crush type drain plug washer that fits your plug. See if that stops the leak until you can get a replacement pan.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

My bet is the drain plug hole was tapped off axis to the drain plug face...

if the plug is in crooked, I would bet it was tapped straight and the plug was cross threaded. This might be salvageable with a tool called a thread chaser (reforms threads without cutting them like a tap).
But if under warranty I would go for the new pan.

[WhiteMale]

That is classic LT1 loose oil pan bolts. Had it on my car as a number of others have. I probably could fix that in about 10 minutes for you.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

That is classic LT1 loose oil pan bolts. Had it on my car as a number of others have. I probably could fix that in about 10 minutes for you.

Now that I look at the picture again I think you’re right, looks like it is sweating from the front above that aluminum cross brace, even the brace looks like it has residue on it

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

if the plug is in crooked, I would bet it was tapped straight and the plug was cross threaded. This might be salvageable with a tool called a thread chaser (reforms threads without cutting them like a tap).
But if under warranty I would go for the new pan.

You almost have to have someone at a GM dealership to get that plug cross threaded

[Corrupt]

So today they text me this.


We have determined that the leak is coming from above the oil pan somewhere. The reason this issue has been so hard to solve is the oil only leaks when the oil level is full or when oil jumps to the top of the pan and makes its way down. We have reached out to the experts at GM to see what the best course of action is in this situation and we should hear back tomorrow or thursday at the latest.

[RamAir02]

Dealer: "We can't find the leak. It's coming from the top of the oil pan. We've changed the oil drain plug seven times, but clearly received seven defective drain plugs."
Experts at GM: "Have you checked the torque on the oil pan bolts?"
Dealer: "Err....?"

[Corrupt]

Still waiting for what the fix. Am paying for a car that am not driving. Now there telling me that then need to take out the tranmission to get to the leak..

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Corrupt

Still waiting for what the fix. Am paying for a car that am not driving. Now there telling me that then need to take out the tranmission to get to the leak..

You have some options...

Open a case with GM about this. I would talk with the Service Manager first to "tell" them you are going to do it (not "should I?" but "I am going to..."). Position it as ensuring that GM is fully tied in and aware that YOU are asking for assistance because this is a factory issue.

Ask, via the case and the Service Manager, to loop in the area GM rep. Stick with the "this is a factory issue that you shouldn't have to be dealing with in the first place" position. At one point, they ended up sending one of their much more senior techs into this dealership to help with some of these infrequent but important issues when my car was demonstrating odd behaviors that no one could duplicate readily (including me).

[ctrlz]

Did they put UV dye in the oil?
Were they able to isolate the source of leak with a UV borescope?
I'd ask some questions before they start yanking the transmission.

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

Dealer: "We can't find the leak. It's coming from the top of the oil pan. We've changed the oil drain plug seven times, but clearly received seven defective drain plugs."
Experts at GM: "Have you checked the torque on the oil pan bolts?"
Dealer: "Err....?"

F it, another oil change it is

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by Corrupt

So today they text me this.


We have determined that the leak is coming from above the oil pan somewhere. The reason this issue has been so hard to solve is the oil only leaks when the oil level is full or when oil jumps to the top of the pan and makes its way down. We have reached out to the experts at GM to see what the best course of action is in this situation and we should hear back tomorrow or thursday at the latest.

Update....the experts at GM has told us to drain 5qts of oil and order a new dipstick so you're always below the leak point. Oh, and never go above 4000RPM

[Corrupt]

Case is open gm rep will call me on monday