[Slurpee]

Had a bit of a scare at Road America. I bled my brakes with Castrol SRF back in April. Did 2.5 events at Road America on OEM pads and take offs. Ambient temps never got higher than 45F. Pad back plate never even discolored from the black paint. Had another event this past weekend. Got a used set of Ferodo 1.11s off of FB market place. Seller said they had 2 track days on them. Bedded them on the highway the day before the event and trailered. Saturday was warmer, upper 70s at the highest, don't think it broke 80. Was having really long pedal travel with the pads. Felt worse than OEM, but kept using them. Second session of the day, pedal travel was getting worse and worse. Pedal eventually went to the floor on turn 1, but was able to slow down without an incident. Bled my brakes and swapped to new 1.11s. Taking off the used 1.11s, they were glazed.

Anyone ever experience this? Not sure what caused the pads to glaze and boil my fluid. I figured 2.5 sessions on fresh SRF and low ambients shouldn't have been a problem with SRF. Especially since I've read some posts of people bleeding once a year. Previous owner didn't bed the pads properly? Just pushing too hard? I will have to go through my PDR footage, but I don't recall activating ABS, so I never exceeded threshold braking. After swapping pads and fluids, didn't have a problem. I have SS deflectors, but I forgot to bring them. That won't happen again and will always bleed brakes before events going forward.

[Christian1LE]

Well, pedal to the floor means you were definitely getting an issue related to brake fluid. Was it fine after bleeding them or did you still have the issue?

Could be several things, most likely you got too much moisture in your fluid.

I've never had any issues even with changing compounds or running in warmer temperatures. The hardest I've even ran my car was a 1 hour long session at VIR north course. Really hard on brakes and I never had a single issue with soft pedal or anything else.

If you ever get a soft pedal in a session don't keep driving, should be addressed right away. It's not normal and indicates some sort of problem.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Well, pedal to the floor means you were definitely getting an issue related to brake fluid. Was it fine after bleeding them or did you still have the issue?

Could be several things, most likely you got too much moisture in your fluid.

I've never had any issues even with changing compounds or running in warmer temperatures. The hardest I've even ran my car was a 1 hour long session at VIR north course. Really hard on brakes and I never had a single issue with soft pedal or anything else.

If you ever get a soft pedal in a session don't keep driving, should be addressed right away. It's not normal and indicates some sort of problem.

First time experiencing it, so I couldn’t tell if it was a soft pedal or not. Thought it was pad fade, but the longer pedal press to get the same stopping power should have been obvious it was fluid looking back on it. Thankfully nothing happened.

After I changed the fluid and pads I didn’t have any issues, ran 6 more sessions over 2 days. Like I said will bleed the brakes every time now. Don’t want that feeling again.

[tomster]

Swap to Hawk 70/60. You will thank me later!

They do run hotter than the stock pads and will cause microcracking of your rotors over time however they stop better, and have no fade.

Front: HB631U.622
Rear: HB194G.570

[Osbornsm]

How did things go with the new 1.11 pads then?

[synolimit]

Originally Posted by tomster

Swap to Hawk 70/60. You will thank me later!

They do run hotter than the stock pads and will cause microcracking of your rotors over time however they stop better, and have no fade.

Front: HB631U.622
Rear: HB194G.570

Keep seeing to many people state do not stagger the pads on these. The systems to good from the start to do this. Staggering only means you’re putting more work in on the front pads and can causing heating issues in the front. If GM properly set the proportioning value up correctly, then don’t stagger.

[cdb95z28]

Pad fade is still going to be a mostly firm pedal but decreasing friction to no friction. I think pad fade can have some minor pedal softening like during bed-in but that's more of a lengthening pedal. At some point, moderate to severe softening pedal is fluid. SRF has a trait of hot compressibility, at some point the hotter it gets it will start to create a soft pedal. Once cooled to ambient the original firm pedal returns, assuming the fluid never got to the next level of boiling. Once fluid has boiled the pedal stays soft. Did that fluid ever get a chance to cool to ambient and if so how was the pedal? The pads look like they overheated but then the fluid got hot enough to the point it may have started to boil or a very severe case of hot compressibility.

Do you still have the OE ZL1 brake deflectors or have you upgraded to the Caddy Blackwing deflectors?

[kropscamaro16]

ive been running hawk dtc60 for last 2 years and doing some time trails events and hpde and never had any issues motul 660 fluid girodisc rings goodridge ss lines

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by synolimit

Keep seeing to many people state do not stagger the pads on these. The systems to good from the start to do this. Staggering only means you’re putting more work in on the front pads and can causing heating issues in the front. If GM properly set the proportioning value up correctly, then don’t stagger.

This is why I haven't run 70/60. I have a set of used 70/70 that I picked up cheap from FB market place, but now I'm hesitant to run used pads.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Osbornsm

How did things go with the new 1.11 pads then?

After changing the pads and bleeding the brakes, I didn't have any issues. Ambient temps were about 25 degrees cooler the next day. I bled the brakes again when I got home. 4 press and releases for each nipple, so 8 per caliper. Fluid looked new.

[BoilerUP]

Aggressive track pads require more heat to be effective than OE HP1000s...and rear brakes will not generate the same amount of heat as fronts. That's why staggering compound is so frequently recommended, as a lesser compound in the rear will be closer to its optimal heat zone faster.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Pad fade is still going to be a mostly firm pedal but decreasing friction to no friction. I think pad fade can have some minor pedal softening like during bed-in but that's more of a lengthening pedal. At some point, moderate to severe softening pedal is fluid. SRF has a trait of hot compressibility, at some point the hotter it gets it will start to create a soft pedal. Once cooled to ambient the original firm pedal returns, assuming the fluid never got to the next level of boiling. Once fluid has boiled the pedal stays soft. Did that fluid ever get a chance to cool to ambient and if so how was the pedal? The pads look like they overheated but then the fluid got hot enough to the point it may have started to boil or a very severe case of hot compressibility.

Do you still have the OE ZL1 brake deflectors or have you upgraded to the Caddy Blackwing deflectors?

After the pedal went to the floor, I let it cool on the next lap and pitted in. I bled the brakes and changed the pads after, so I'm not sure how the pedal would have felt.
Pads look cooked to me. Haven't thrown them out yet, going to see if I can email Ferodo about them.
I have the OE. I can't get my hands on the blackwing. I have the SS brake deflectors, but I forgot to put them on before the event and left them at home (won't happen again lol). I saw one member post the differences in temp between the SS and blackwing deflectors and they were more or less the same temps, so I'm fine with using these.

[synolimit]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

This is why I haven't run 70/60. I have a set of used 70/70 that I picked up cheap from FB market place, but now I'm hesitant to run used pads.

i hear you! hawk has me hesitant anyways for destroying rotors. ive only run carbotech, just hate they are the most money now! i think XP12/12 is all that is needed as its higher heat temp over even the hawk70 and its nice to rotors. not sure who needs the XP20's at 2000+!

[synolimit]

Originally Posted by BoilerUP

Aggressive track pads require more heat to be effective than OE HP1000s...and rear brakes will not generate the same amount of heat as fronts. That's why staggering compound is so frequently recommended, as a lesser compound in the rear will be closer to its optimal heat zone faster.

unless you have a properly setup car like GM did. they are recommended to stagger on other cars because can you name me another car on the road thats like setup like a freaking 1LE? no you cant. my 370z needed staggered because every single item on the car was not meant to ever see a track!! you'd get ice mode and it was dangerous so you stagger the pads. can you name a single person here who's engaged ice mode? i bet there isnt one.