10-10-2019, 09:09 AM | #1 |
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Novice Autocrosser - sway bar question
I just started autocrossing a month ago with my stock SS in F Street. I understand you can change either the front sway bar or rear sway bar, but not both to remain in the Street class. Is this correct, and if so which bar would I change and what kind of difference would it make?
Bill
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10-10-2019, 09:49 AM | #2 |
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Stiffer in the front = more understeer.
Stiffer in the rear = more oversteer. Which one you should change depends on which way you want to bias the handling. If you're not sure about that, just work on the driver mod for a while... |
10-10-2019, 09:53 AM | #3 |
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If just starting.... only mod should be driver MOD - seat time, keep learning to drive.
Save money for tires - they make bigggessstt difference.
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10-10-2019, 11:09 AM | #4 |
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Also adding front camber is free if you can do your own alignment. I would max out camber before changing sway bars.
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10-10-2019, 06:24 PM | #5 | |||
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Bill
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10-10-2019, 08:21 PM | #6 |
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While going to a stiffer front bar may cause more understeer, I have heard that is the direction most Street class drivers go. The front bar helps make the front turn in better, less lazy on the transition.
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10-10-2019, 08:29 PM | #7 |
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Yeah, I wouldn't change the car yet. I find it well balanced stock, once the tires warm up which is tough to do sometimes at autox unless it's a smaller event and you get more runs spaced closer together. Driving the car on cold vs warm tires is night and day, it understeers too much until they warm, and once warm you can trails brake and keep it right on the edge into corners beautifully. So it does tend to understeer a bit, and I could see a slightly stiffer rear bar but I'd want an adjustable bar pretty close to stock on it's softest setting. Those are my initial impressions doing a few autox events this summer on stock GY SC3s... I have a 1LE but the same applies, get some experience with properly warmed-up tires and see what you think.
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10-11-2019, 09:20 AM | #8 | ||
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Hi Bill, Great to see someone new getting into autocross. As mentioned above, making changes to the car right away can slow down the learning process. Seat time is key to becoming a better driver. Once you have gotten comfortable with the car you can look into making modifications to it, as long as they keep you classed properly. Alignment and Tires/Tire pressures are where you should be looking at making changes for now. Although they don't sound like much, they have a huge effect on how the car will perform. Happy Auto-crossing. Stephen JDP Motorsports |
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10-12-2019, 05:55 AM | #9 |
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Something on the front sway bar being changed for F-Street, I think that those guys were also using wider front tires like 265 or 275, despite the narrow 8.5" width of the front wheels.
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10-12-2019, 05:40 PM | #10 |
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Street class allows you to change ONE bar. As stated above, most AutoX drivers are changing the front bar. Preferred front bar is Hotchkis, not BMR. Preferred rear bar is BMR, not Hotchkis.
Agree with the other posts...do not change the car until you feel you have reached your limit on stock setup.
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10-12-2019, 05:53 PM | #11 |
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10-13-2019, 06:50 AM | #12 | ||||||
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I have a spare set of rims, with some worn out GY Assymentric Eagle F1s. My current tires are Michelin PS4s, which I think are pretty good, but could change out the spare set. I feel like I've made some great strides in the three events so far. I've closed the distance on the class leader, who has been a big help. He drives a 2001 Camaro, so the difference between is all driver and then some. I will be looking at getting as much seat time, and any kind of autocross classes as I can. When I Google Evo School, I only find one on the east coast this year. Are they offered around the country? Bill
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10-14-2019, 08:40 AM | #13 |
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Put both FE4 bars on. No one will know they aren't stock...
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10-15-2019, 10:58 AM | #14 | |
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Bill
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2016 2SS Black / Black & Arenaline Red (sold) 2023 GMC Canyon Denali 2013 2SS / RS - AGM / Jet Black (sold) 1970 1/2 Z/28 Classic Copper / Tan (sold many years ago) |
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