[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Has anyone here done a cam install on their ZL1? My car is currently down for Kong X-port and header install. I have a cam and Weapon-X boost chiller on the way and will probably go ahead and swap the cam out while the car is down. Does anyone have any advise or things to look out for? I was a technician for 15 years, but I've never done a cam on an LT4 before. I tried to search for a cam install write up, but the search function isn't working right now. Any help is appreciated.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Hey Rapid Blue, Being a tech for 15 years should make this process pretty easy. I just did mine out of the car, thread is here



https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609588


Asking for pointers is pretty broad, as there was alot of caveats i covered in my post.

One thing i would address is all of the other supplemental upgrades that make sense while the engine is open. Here is a short list.

1. Pushrods + Trunnion upgrade + Springs / Guides (get a complete cam kit) with LS3 sprocket conversion
2. Katech Oil Pump + LME Chain Guide + C5R Chain
3. VVT + DoD Delete covers from Katech, LME or TSP
4. ATI Damper + Gates Belt (+ OD Pulley depending on Power Goals)
5. Sending Heads out for porting (depending on power goals)
6. BMR Motor mounts (make future work and header installs sooooo much easier)
7. Griptech upper while blower is out (easier to swap upper later if desired)
8. Port snout for a 103mm TB
9. Flexfuel sensor
10. Take photos of everything during the disassemble process, bad and tag everything
11. Prime oil pump using the plug on the side of the block
12. Stock up on blue locktite, assembly lube, and anti-seize
13. Dont forget to replace the SC bolts (they are TTY)

PM me if you have any others questions or if you want to chat over the phone.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Thanks for the reply. I have push rods, springs, etc going in. I am not looking to go past 800whp, so I didn't feel heads would really be necessary. Is the trunnion upgrade required for these cars? I looked into it, but wasn't sure.

I thought the oil pump issues were just the 18 and older cars, so I didn't order one. I am planning on doing the LME chain guide and the TSP VVT delete kit is on the way already.

The blower is being ported by Kong now and will get a ZPE hub installed while it is there.

I am going to be running 93 octane (I hate dealing with E85), so I decided to get a Weapon-X Boost chiller.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey Rapid Blue, Being a tech for 15 years should make this process pretty easy. I just did mine out of the car, thread is here



https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609588


Asking for pointers is pretty broad, as there was alot of caveats i covered in my post.

One thing i would address is all of the other supplemental upgrades that make sense while the engine is open. Here is a short list.

1. Pushrods + Trunnion upgrade + Springs / Guides (get a complete cam kit) with LS3 sprocket conversion
2. Katech Oil Pump + LME Chain Guide + C5R Chain
3. VVT + DoD Delete covers from Katech, LME or TSP
4. ATI Damper + Gates Belt (+ OD Pulley depending on Power Goals)
5. Sending Heads out for porting (depending on power goals)
6. BMR Motor mounts (make future work and header installs sooooo much easier)
7. Griptech upper while blower is out (easier to swap upper later if desired)
8. Port snout for a 103mm TB
9. Flexfuel sensor
10. Take photos of everything during the disassemble process, bad and tag everything
11. Prime oil pump using the plug on the side of the block
12. Stock up on blue locktite, assembly lube, and anti-seize
13. Dont forget to replace the SC bolts (they are TTY)

PM me if you have any others questions or if you want to chat over the phone.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Thanks for the reply. I have push rods, springs, etc going in. I am not looking to go past 800whp, so I didn't feel heads would really be necessary. Is the trunnion upgrade required for these cars? I looked into it, but wasn't sure.

I thought the oil pump issues were just the 18 and older cars, so I didn't order one. I am planning on doing the LME chain guide and the TSP VVT delete kit is on the way already.

The blower is being ported by Kong now and will get a ZPE hub installed while it is there.

I am going to be running 93 octane (I hate dealing with E85), so I decided to get a Weapon-X Boost chiller.

Sounds like a fun build! The trunnion upgrade replaces the stock needle bearings with a solid shaft. I have alot of photos on my build thread. Seems standard when doing a cam. As for the oil pump, this is highly discussed, and although new vehicles have had alot less failures, the Katech pump is built better and for alot of us is $500 of insurance while the motor is open. Not a requirement.



Good luck to you... be sure to post up some progress photos!!!

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will get the Katech oil pump and trunnion kit ordered!

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Sounds like a fun build! The trunnion upgrade replaces the stock needle bearings with a solid shaft. I have alot of photos on my build thread. Seems standard when doing a cam. As for the oil pump, this is highly discussed, and although new vehicles have had alot less failures, the Katech pump is built better and for alot of us is $500 of insurance while the motor is open. Not a requirement.



Good luck to you... be sure to post up some progress photos!!!

[jvandy50]

if i were to do it again i'd pull the motor. we realized that would've been best about a few hours in lol.

other than that, mine was performed by my father and i...he has been a mechanic for 40 years, rebuilt many motors, wires nitrous for folks, so it was simple for him...just time consuming as this car is built around the radiator

[KingLT1]

For 800whp you don't need heads or cam. Toohighpsi PI system and turn the boost up on the X port will get you there easy with E85.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Thanks for the recommendation, but I wanted the cam for the chop and fuel lobe so I don't have to run E-85. I hate running ethanol and really hate having to mix for E50. The closest station to my house is 20 minutes away. I did the chiller so I wouldn't need Ethanol.

EDIT: Plus if I'm voiding the warranty, I want the lifters swapped out.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

For 800whp you don't need heads or cam. Toohighpsi PI system and turn the boost up on the X port will get you there easy with E85.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Yeah, I keep going back and forth on whether to pull the engine or not. I have a 6MT, so I've heard it is more of a PITA to stab back in compared to A10. Also with the 6MT, it sounds like you have to drop the subframe down either way. I have an engine hoist, so I'll decide once I start.

Originally Posted by jvandy50

if i were to do it again i'd pull the motor. we realized that would've been best about a few hours in lol.

other than that, mine was performed by my father and i...he has been a mechanic for 40 years, rebuilt many motors, wires nitrous for folks, so it was simple for him...just time consuming as this car is built around the radiator

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

For 800whp you don't need heads or cam. Toohighpsi PI system and turn the boost up on the X port will get you there easy with E85.

So true... But there is no replacement for that choppy idle. Once you have one, you can never go back

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Yeah, I keep going back and forth on whether to pull the engine or not. I have a 6MT, so I've heard it is more of a PITA to stab back in compared to A10. Also with the 6MT, it sounds like you have to drop the subframe down either way. I have an engine hoist, so I'll decide once I start.

You can remove and reinstall the motor in an m6 car without completely dropping the cradle if you pull the blower off first. This will allow the motor to tilt back enough for the oil pan to clear the cross member. I've pulled mine a couple of times by myself with no problems at all. It's not difficult

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

You can remove and reinstall the motor in an m6 car without completely dropping the cradle if you pull the blower off first. This will allow the motor to tilt back enough for the oil pan to clear the cross member. I've pulled mine a couple of times by myself with no problems at all. It's not difficult

Did you mean to say drop the tranny or drop the oil pan?
I have an M6 and needed to drop the cross member by about 4" to clear the oil pan and that was even with jacking up the trans until it was hitting the top of the tunnel.



In reality, it is not hard to drop the cross member, (6) bolts to remove, (2) to loosen and then a jack to support, although it did add another 20 minutes to the process. Doing it again, I would have maybe tried to pull the balancer off in the car, in order to leave the fan in place. That is not designed to be pulled off in the car.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Yeah, I don't know why but it just seems easier to pull the heads and oil pan off in the car and just move the condenser out of the way. Removing transmission bolts and re-stabbing the transmission into the clutch sounds like a lot more work. I have a low rise lift in my garage, so dropping the subframe down to swap the oil pan should be a breeze.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Did you mean to say drop the tranny or drop the oil pan?
I have an M6 and needed to drop the cross member by about 4" to clear the oil pan and that was even with jacking up the trans until it was hitting the top of the tunnel.



In reality, it is not hard to drop the cross member, (6) bolts to remove, (2) to loosen and then a jack to support, although it did add another 20 minutes to the process. Doing it again, I would have maybe tried to pull the balancer off in the car, in order to leave the fan in place. That is not designed to be pulled off in the car.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Yeah, I don't know why but it just seems easier to pull the heads and oil pan off in the car and just move the condenser out of the way. Removing transmission bolts and re-stabbing the transmission into the clutch sounds like a lot more work. I have a low rise lift in my garage, so dropping the subframe down to swap the oil pan should be a breeze.

Sounds good to me, many ways to skin this cat

So long she starts up and no one needs to run for the fire extinguisher it should be considered a win Just dont be like me, and make sure your alternator is connected before you try to start