[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

It's not so much hating on CCs, it's the FACT that nobody has ever been able to show loss of power due to intake valve deposits on an LT1.

For LT4, it's a bit different, CC + E85 will allow for more leeway before knock or low speed pre-ignition happens, and you do get more blowby with forced induction. On track you're looking at a ton of heat as well, which makes preventing knock all the more important.

The big issue with LT1 is that people are voiding their powertrain warranty by installing a CC that serves no purpose. Also, CC mfg'ers have been on here LYING about the subject. So yes, I could be called a CC hater but the truth is I would run one myself on a forced induction engine or NA if it was mainly a track car or if it had a tune that was more aggressive than stock.

Part of this is the oil, the high-$ M1 ESP is less volatile and the oem air/oil separator along with the oem tune will prevent these build-up issues in normal use. Engineering Explained also did a video on the subject that concluded high-rpm operation will get the intake valves hot enough to bake-off deposits, so there is validity to the Italian Tune-Up as well.

Everything I own gets an "Italian Tune-Up". IMO stringent oil changes, proper fuel system maintenance, high grade fuel and Italian Tune-Up's go a long way.

[Drnick]

Italian tune up? What the hell is that? Pasta &vino?

[Gunkk]

Take it for a drive, warm her up, get out onto some open road, and mat the throttle*. Burn out all the crusties.


* while obeying all appropriate laws ... of course

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by Drnick

Italian tune up? What the hell is that? Pasta &vino?

It means take off the crocs and drive the car like it’s supposed to be driven.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Take it for a drive, warm her up, get out onto some open road, and mat the throttle*. Burn out all the crusties.


* while obeying all appropriate laws ... of course

Not sure i follow this logic. How is going WOT going to help remove oil from the intake runner? I am no expert, but I believe it's the WOT that is causing oil to enter the PCV oil / air separator, but our damn cars let wayyyyy too much into the blower, and it saturates the runners / back of the intake vales.

I believe we have two issues here. 1; is faulty PCV system that can only be fixed with a CC and 2; the fact that we have DI and no more fuel hitting the back of the valves like in a port injected set up. Port injection would be the path that valve cleaners would take.

Anyway, I feel everyones pain, and if you look at the back of my 2k mile valves you will see the issue. Maybe you have help me understand how WOT driving helps with keep the valves intake runners clean. I am motivated to NOT accumulate as much oil as the first 2k miles.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Not sure i follow this logic. How is going WOT going to help remove oil from the intake runner? I am no expert, but I believe it's the WOT that is causing oil to enter the PCV oil / air separator, but our damn cars let wayyyyy too much into the blower, and it saturates the runners / back of the intake vales.

I believe we have two issues here. 1; is faulty PCV system that can only be fixed with a CC and 2; the fact that we have DI and no more fuel hitting the back of the valves like in a port injected set up. Port injection would be the path that valve cleaners would take.

Anyway, I feel everyones pain, and if you look at the back of my 2k mile valves you will see the issue. Maybe you have help me understand how WOT driving helps with keep the valves intake runners clean. I am motivated to NOT accumulate as much oil as the first 2k miles.

You are 100% correct.

Flogging these cars does not clean anything out pre valve. If anything, it contributes to the problem. The LT4's get blow by through the PCV system. The rings are gapped for boost which allows more blow-by through the PCV with no catch can. The factory oil separator isn't sufficient. Pull the supercharger lid and the oil pooling will be evident.

The CRC cleaner works pretty well. You spray it in front of the throttle body with engine running and rpms around 2k. I simply just disconnect the coupler and run the engine, but it will throw and code and run the fans in space shuttle mode. Or you come up with a spare coupler that has a hole for the injection tube.

You still want a catch can either way keep oil out of the clean air side of the engine.

[Drnick]

Oh, that kinda tuneup,ok, I do that often! ,and I don’t wear Crocs!,
I digress, any recommendations for a CC that works
With this engine (yeah do a search) as flogging the crap out of
This car, will get me locked up, or in a body bag
PS looks like u have to remove the supercharger to install
The CC! That’ll definitely void the warranty!

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Not sure i follow this logic. How is going WOT going to help remove oil from the intake runner? I am no expert, but I believe it's the WOT that is causing oil to enter the PCV oil / air separator, but our damn cars let wayyyyy too much into the blower, and it saturates the runners / back of the intake vales.

I believe we have two issues here. 1; is faulty PCV system that can only be fixed with a CC and 2; the fact that we have DI and no more fuel hitting the back of the valves like in a port injected set up. Port injection would be the path that valve cleaners would take.

Anyway, I feel everyones pain, and if you look at the back of my 2k mile valves you will see the issue. Maybe you have help me understand how WOT driving helps with keep the valves intake runners clean. I am motivated to NOT accumulate as much oil as the first 2k miles.

The only pain you will have is if you spend too much time worrying about it. The Italian Tune Up side applies to the spark plugs/pistons. Running an ethanol mix will still keep the pistons clean and higher octane will keep the engine from detonating even if the car is ingesting oil. Oil creating pre ignition is way more of a problem IMO than worrying about some oil crust on the intake valve. Pulling the blower off or the intake manifold is easy if you really want to spend some time massaging OCD. Thin broken down oil will also allow higher levels of oil in the crankcase promoting to the problem. Even intake runners on port injection gets coated with oil. Port doesn’t build up on the intake valve but the entire runner, guide and valve is oil coated 24/7.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by Drnick

Oh, that kinda tuneup,ok, I do that often! ,and I don’t wear Crocs!,
I digress, any recommendations for a CC that works
With this engine (yeah do a search) as flogging the crap out of
This car, will get me locked up, or in a body bag
PS looks like u have to remove the supercharger to install
The CC! That’ll definitely void the warranty!

I would check the service manual or call your dealer about a mileage that is good to plan on the upper end being cleaned. There are sprays you can put into the intake and also a procedure that uses walnut shells to clean out the build up. It’s nothing new with DI. It’s been around long before GM started using it. I would guess it’s a service that should be performed around the 30-40k mark. Mostly for fuel mileage not some noticeable loss in HP.

[AZ_1LE]

The fact is, you're never going to be able to keep them clean unless you install a secondary fuel injection system which... yea, not gonna happen. Most of the crap on the valves comes from oil seeping past the valve seals. Nothing you can do about that. All cars with direct injection are going to need to get the valves cleaned (walnut blasting, caustic chemical cleaning) at around 70k miles.