[2018 ZL1 HBM]

Need your opinions on how many horses will be picked up with mods being done next week.....And an opinion on one thing......

Getting a Rotofab Big Gulp CAI, 180* thermostat, high temp spark plug wire insulators, custom Street/Dyno Ecu Calibration, and ZR1 throttle body...Rotofab themselves told me over the phone that if I dont upgrade the throttle body with the Big Gulp, I will leave HP on the table...Is that true?

I have an A10..... How many horse could be gained with and without the ZR1 throttle body?

Getting done at Tune Time in Lakewood NJ.....

[Z OH 6]

I dont think a big gulp is needed until you're running a Maggie 2650 or max effort stock blower with cam and heads. My question would be what other mods do you have that warrants a big gulp? Then it would be easier to determine what size TB you need. I think when youre ready for a big gulp, you're ready for a 103mm TB.

[Markoz28]

I agree with RF. The tubing on the BG is bigger but if you continue with stock 87mm TB then it shrinks down. I would at the least do ZR1 TB and maybe even Soler Ported ZR1 TB. I think theirs has bracket that allows for a smooth transition between the throttle body and supercharger.

Will you be getting headers installed too? Reason I ask is the mods you are doing are kinda a waste of tune. You will probably be about 50whp more than current but most of that is Ron tuning and about 15-20whp from mods. As you add more mods the HP numbers go up as they work hand in hand. I would wait until you have headers to install as well to get the most out of the tune. Should be in the 600whp range.

[dbs1]

I'd agree with Mark. Get some good LT's and have a shop install them with possibly a lower pulley, but I'd also at least add an e85 sensor so you're tuner can get that in the tune and add some decent hp gains without breaking the bank. These cars like the corn!

[Juiced1]

I would look into a pulley and some headers as well. Freeing up the airflow is a great idea but spinning the blower harder will really make it worth while. With a pulley and headers you'll probably be closer to 650rwhp which lines up with our stage 1 package (headers, intake & pulley).

[2018 ZL1 HBM]

Thanks for the info....

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by 2018 ZL1 HBM

Need your opinions on how many horses will be picked up with mods being done next week.....And an opinion on one thing......

Getting a Rotofab Big Gulp CAI, 180* thermostat, high temp spark plug wire insulators, custom Street/Dyno Ecu Calibration, and ZR1 throttle body...Rotofab themselves told me over the phone that if I dont upgrade the throttle body with the Big Gulp, I will leave HP on the table...Is that true?

I have an A10..... How many horse could be gained with and without the ZR1 throttle body?

Getting done at Tune Time in Lakewood NJ.....

Airflow is important, but you always want to try to match up your mods properly. If you have no rotofab cold air now, getting the big gulp is fine as youll be set for future mods. Pumping in all that extra air should be paired with a set of headers. Porting the stock super charger, snout, - NW 103mm throttle body, pulley, headers and a tune youll be in the 600's.


Ill be at tune time in lakewood this monday btw.

[DrBlockHed]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

I would look into a pulley and some headers as well. Freeing up the airflow is a great idea but spinning the blower harder will really make it worth while. With a pulley and headers you'll probably be closer to 650rwhp which lines up with our stage 1 package (headers, intake & pulley).

Do they cars run into any heat soak issues with a pulley on a road course or longer hard driving? I’m on the fence about doing a pulley or porting the blower

[SJFGTO]

Your engine can only efficiently use so much air. You are a long way from a Big Gulp. Totally unnecessary unless you have mods pointing you north of 750 in the future. Otherwise stick with the standard Roto Fab. Add 2 inch LTs, GESI cats and a 9.17 lower pulley. Don’t worry much about what a dyno reads. Dyno numbers are a by-product of how an engine runs. Match your mods to work together, that is the key.

[radz28]

Personally - I found a significant-to-me difference in the BG over the standard one, with just the few mods' I have. They aren't a lot, but a difference of probably 10-20-RWHP for $500 was worth it to me. I did already have an LT5 TB on the car (I just opened the mounting holes - didn't use the adapter), and I port-matched the blower snout to the LT5, and picked up power with the BG over the existing RF I had on the car. I can't verify with proof because I didn't dyno, but street tuning required a lot of MAF and VVE changes. Just my experience. That money was worth the improvement to me.