"Battery Saver Active" and my long list of troubleshooting so far w/no resolution

[608RS]

Hello everyone


i've been battling "Battery Saver Active" on my Camaro now for about a month, and after going through pretty much every post on camaro5.com with this issue, along with various Corvette forums i'm hoping someone can help me resolve this issue. I'll start with what I've replaced so far along with some additional specs on my car:

-2015 Camaro 2ss
-6 speed manual
-41k miles
-When car isn't driven it sits on a battery tender
-stock MyLink radio with 100% stock Bose audio. no additional subs/speakers
-no check engine or battery lights when car is running


Items replaced so far:
*Brand new OE-spec replacement battery from NAPA
*Brand new OEM ACDelco Alternator (P/N 13597233). i'm including this information as there is different alternator for autos)
*Brand new OEM ACDelco Battery Current Sensor (P/N 13505369)
*verified main drive belt was not showing any wear & tear. zero slippage, no belt squeaking noise, no loud pulleys/idlers either


Additional steps i've taken to ensure there isn't additional power sources pulling power:
*removed NPP 3-way exhaust controller from power/ground
*removed 12v USB converter from console (that charges my phone)
*confirmed no other devices are plugged into power sources
*removed battery tender to verify it wasn't somehow overcharging anything
*manually turned on headlights and did not see voltage increase to the 13+v.


Based on my troubleshooting steps, here is what i've narrowed it down to as far as when "battery saver active" will appear on my dash:

When my car first comes off the battery tender & i start the car, the alternator will do it's normal "hot" cycle when car starts. based on the two scenarios here are the results

1) battery is 100% charged, alternator will drop output voltage to the battery slowly, and after a minute or two i'll see a fall from 14.5v to about 13v for about 45min, then slowly but surely it'll drop further to 12.5 - 12.0v and then eventually under 11v displayed on dash until "battery saver active. the strange thing, if i turn off the car, and then turn it back on the alternator will continue to run on it's "hot" cycle and charge it @ ~14.5 - 15v for hours (due to battery running low on power and the computer seeing it's needing a charge. this tells me the alternator / battery current sensor are both communicating properly.

2) battery doesn't sit on tender for a few days, which will have the battery technically "not at full capacity" due to the car sitting for ~3-4 days. the car will start and vehicle voltage will stay at ~14+v for hours so it can fully recharge battery. eventually once battery gets a full charge, i will eventually see voltage drop and the alternator not kicking back in to bring voltage up to a safe level (12.v+)

Im not sure what else could be the issue, or what to check next. i also own a Haynes manual for my Camaro and there are no other troubleshooting steps listed for the charging system. I did verify battery positive / negative / ground were all securely tightened with no loose areas. i also did look at a few other chassis grounds to verify nothing was loose either but i'm open for suggestions on anything again. When verifying the electrical system in my Haynes manual it does show the BCM (Body Control Module) controlling the alternator, so that's really the only thing i can see me replacing next. However from my research this looks like the Chevrolet dealer will have to program this device?

Any help / input / suggestions welcomed. i'm really at the end of troubleshooting knowledge and could use any help.

thank you.

**UPDATE**

apologies everyone for not updating my post. after all of the above troubleshooting, the car was then hooked up to HPTuners and we saw the computer would be able to communicate to the alternator and then unable to regain communications. After swapping ECUs we were able to regain control of the alternator again. So, ECU swap resolved my issue.

[Rock-It Man]

You have made a thorough investigation and recorded your observations.

It seems your charging system is not functioning properly.The charging system should never allow a charging voltage of less than 13.2 volts for more than 45 minutes, and should always charge if system voltage falls below 12.56 volts.

Also, turning on the headlights should raise the charging voltage to 13.9 volts or more.

So possibly you have a BCM problem. IMO, the best way to deal with that is to go to a dealer, rather than continuing to replace parts.

[608RS]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

You have made a thorough investigation and recorded your observations.

It seems your charging system is not functioning properly.The charging system should never allow a charging voltage of less than 13.2 volts for more than 45 minutes, and should always charge if system voltage falls below 12.56 volts.

Also, turning on the headlights should raise the charging voltage to 13.9 volts or more.

So possibly you have a BCM problem. IMO, the best way to deal with that is to go to a dealer, rather than continuing to replace parts.

forgot to mention turning on headlights does not force voltage increase, i will update my original post.

and yes the dealer is the last step but without warranty this is going to be out of pocket so i'm gonna see if there is anything else i can do/test before it goes to a shop

[PaulsSS]

Ever solve this?

[tmjump]

Was the issue ever solved? I recently received this indicator as well. My car seems to hold at 14.2-14.7 volts during start up and driving. Never dropping below 14.2. But for some reason every start it indicates power savor active. I checked the battery when disconnected I get 12.8 volts. Noticed there was water under the battery (brown water so sitting a while) I drained and fixed the water issue (sunroof drain) reconnected and dried everything. Battery savor now does not turn on. Is this a real fix or will it return??

[608RS]

apologies everyone for not updating my post. after all of the above troubleshooting, the car was then hooked up to HPTuners and we saw the computer would be able to communicate to the alternator and then unable to regain communications. After swapping ECUs we were able to regain control of the alternator again.