[DorkMissile]

Elite Engineering - I have received two emails from the Tech Email address. First on 12/10 and the other on 12/24. Neither were very specific as to where to route anything and they informed me I needed to buy a “special high pressure relief valve”. I responded back asking for a part number or link to what I needed to buy, but never got any response. Never any mention that the E2 Can I already had wasn’t going to work.

This is my issue - there is a great amount of vagueness to the answers to the questions and level of support. There is never anything specific.

I finally had enough and wanted to get my issue solved. I bought something else, put it on in 15 minutes as per the instructions and it works perfect.

A suggestion would be to possibly work with a customer or two running centrifugal superchargers and develop a specific set of instructions for these applications.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

On a Centrifugal supercharger or a turbo, the intake manifold is pressurized with boost, so unless your at idle or during deceleration, you have NO evacuation taking place with the wild.

Sorry I snipped all your other cut and paste propaganda. The only time the WILD is venting to atmosphere is during BOOST and how long do people stay in boost on average? .Seconds? The rest of the time it's under vacuum including Idle, Decel and normal every day driving.


I personally disagree that your venturi effect is an adequate enough source of vacuum to safely vent the crankcase during high reving boost situations. I would be willing to bet that through the use of your 1 way check valves, etc that your 3rd Vacuum source aka (Venturi) has more pressure from the crankcase venting through it (Positive pressure) than it has vacuum pulling vapors out.







I think I much rather have zero back pressure and vent to Atmosphere during Boost / High Rev and less risk to popping a front or rear seal than forcing those vapors through whatever length of Elite hosing back up and through the catch can and finally out the 3rd vacuum hose and end up barfing crankcase vapors into my Supercharger inlet pipe.




.

[Eyefixstuff]

Just as an update, it’s been about 8k miles or so with it so far. Haven’t had any problems or seals blown. It has caught a decent amount of oil. Being I don’t have anything to compare it to, nor have ever used catch cans before, I can’t really comment on the differences between units. But to be fair it has worked great so far.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

Just as an update, it’s been about 8k miles or so with it so far. Haven’t had any problems or seals blown. It has caught a decent amount of oil. Being I don’t have anything to compare it to, nor have ever used catch cans before, I can’t really comment on the differences between units. But to be fair it has worked great so far.

Oh yeah and I didn't mean to imply Elites don't work. Looking back at your engine bay photo I see there's a 1 way check valve on the Vacuum source where you Tapped into your Supercharger inlet tube. I personally am not convinced that even at WOT there would be much of a vacuum present because for there to be anything worthwhile it would mean your K&N Filter is one clogged MOFO.


Probably no guarantee that our seals would blow out either but I didn't want to risk it. You might be venting through the drivers side hose that connects to the factory oil separator and into the back of your K&N Filter. (That long hose that wraps around the back of the motor)

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

EyeFixStuff, Thanks for your input. We were closed the 4th and Tech Support was off sight and no internet in a rural area.


DorkMissle,


Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com is our Engineering and Technical support contact. We always are technical as understanding is critical on proper crankcase evacuation, and the E2-X Ultra dual valve is the proper system for a centrifugal application over 6-8# boost. We always answer emails to tech support. Also, a centrifugal SC and a turbo are identical installations. A Centrifugal SC is basically a turbo driven by a belt instead of exhaust gasses. We do not know of any way other than technical explanations to share information and data with others. We are not just pushing sales but education and understanding. Far too many just purchase products with little understanding of all involved.


Jayd0002,


Aside from trapping nearly twice the amount as far as effectiveness (can be tested yourself to demonstrate), it provides full time evacuation suction on your crankcase so pressure can never build and harm a seal to begin with.


On a Centrifugal supercharger or a turbo, the intake manifold is pressurized with boost, so unless your at idle or during deceleration, you have NO evacuation taking place with the wild. Only allowing pressure to build and vent leaving most of the damage and wear causing substances (combustion byproducts) to remain in the crankcase causing accelerated wear. Doing this also results in a condition known as "piston ring flutter" (https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/...n-ring-flutter). As all modern engines are built with low tension, low friction piston rings, this becomes an issue if pressure above and suction below the rings is not maintained. The rapid state of vibration the rings enter into results in much greater blow-by and the issues related to it. Long tern this wears the leading edges of the rings as well as the ringlands in the pistons and small "divots" in the cylinder walls. So you have one method that is technology used from the first internal combustion engines at the beginning of the 1900's until the mid 1960's when the PCV system was mandated. Race engines still vented until app 20 years ago when advancements in technology found pulling full time suction on the crankcase did several things.


It gained power by aiding the pistons on the downstroke instead of fighting pressure as the wild does.


It removed most of the damage and wear causing combustion byproducts (Water, acids, raw fuel, and abrasive particulate matter) and resulted in a better ring seal. This video demonstrates this as far as power. Note, we do not provide as strong of vacuum during WOT as a pump system, but still emulate this and the advantages are evident. The first dyno pull is venting as the wild system would, and the second is pulling full time suction/vacuum as our E2-X dual valve system does. And this is on a NA small cube engine. On forced induction this is all the more critical:



And by constantly flushing and evacuating (venting is NOT evacuation, that requires suction) your oil stays cleaner longer as this recent oil analysis shows. Note the lab techs comments. This is a GDI twin turbo engine modded and driven hard that has been doing field testing on the effects of our system on the engine oil:





Now, one only has to look at the Professional racing industry to see NO form "Vents" unless the class prohibits a crankcase evacuation system as an unfair advantage such as stock and super stock classes in NHRA & IHRA as well as the stock car "claimer engine" classes. All other including Indy cars and off road use vacuum evacuation systems. Protecting your engine and gaining every single HP is what wins and looses races as well as protecting these engines.


So in summary, the wild will provide NO evacuation unless at idle or deceleration. We provide full time evacuation using 2 separate proven vacuum/suction sources and a series of checkvalves so no matter what operating mode your in, your crankcase is always pulling suction so pressure does not build in the first place.


What happens if a piston ring is damaged and blow-by becomes excessive? You retain the factory cleanside separation system on the LT1/LT4 with the Camaro (or add our CSS system with a LS based engine) and any excessive pressure would simply vent into the main air intake instead of always venting into your engine compartment. The factory CSS is very effective. No seal failures can occur as it is impossible for pressure to ever build.


Now, why do most install a "catchcan"? To stop as much oil and other contaminant ingestion via the intake air charge. Oil causes detonation and that results in knock retard. As the MM cans trap a fraction of the E2-X patented design (we trap app. 95%, MM far less, and again, anyone can test and see this first hand like in this video. Start at the 17 minute mark to see the final results, but the entire video is very educational. This was performed by a tech that was promoting the Moroso can):


And there are many others with most can designs on the market showing it is not a small disparity but a huge difference in effectiveness.


So, why would anyone use such outdated and ineffective solution? Lack of knowledge is the only reason we can think of.


We have had this challenge in public for years, and mm refuses to have their can tested independently as all of the tests with ours have been done.


It is not what a can catches as all engines are different and even a soda can will trap as much as most cans, it is what gets past a can or is "pulled through", and if you follow these independent tests only drops get past our design.


So in closing, it is critical to match the proper system with your application/build. We invite questions and any civil technical based discussions. From working with one of the most respected lubrication laboratories in the World to thousands of these being used as advertised on 600-800-1000HP plus FI builds for years, there is no more effective design on the market currently that were aware of.


More pictures?


E2-X design vs JLT independent test:



JLT left, E2-X design right.


And an extensive long term test conducted here on Camaro6:


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512223


Hope this helps!

Again - a long drawn out defensive post vs trying to fix a CURRENT CUSTOMER'S PROBLEM with your product.

I can't speak for anyone else here, but I myself have tried your product, trying to make sense of how to successfully plumb it to get it to work successfully because I am flying blind WITH NO INSTRUCTIONS. Well I received instructions - the ones that came with the kit for a N/A LT1 configuration and the other set being how to plumb it in a C7 Corvette with a Dry Sump LT4 / Positive Displacement install. The blower, valve cover, & air / oil separator on these two cars & engines are COMPLETELY different.

I tried asking for the help, offered to buy whatever else I would need to buy to make it work and didn't even get a reply then.

I talked to the other company I bought from on the phone for 10 minutes (I have never been able to get anyone at Elite on the phone). Dave told me which can, which bracket, and which fittings to buy and I had it car and working in 15 minutes. Problem 100% solved and I only blame myself for not giving up on the E2 earlier.

All I can say is I HAVE ran both systems, and what I can say is that the MM Wild works in my application. No failed check valves (both of my elite valves failed pithing 500 miles running it on my n/a setup - I had to source additional ones out of my own pocket).