[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Nmolina9239

Hey Ted, I am not having any issues with the vehicle at all. I was more just trying to get educated on whats considered good versus bad.

If it's consistently pulling timing via the conditions and the way you drive it, then ideally you want to do more cooling mods so there isn't any power left on the table. I would consider bad anything over 160. 140-150 and pulling a few degrees to keep it happy per the conditions isn't really a big deal... it's just leaving power on the table.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Nmolina9239

Hey Ted, I am not having any issues with the vehicle at all. I was more just trying to get educated on whats considered good versus bad.

I would say temps above 150 should be addressed but it is no unusual to hit that temp at the end of a 1/4 mile run.

[steelheadrob]

I typically ice down the whipple between 1/4 mile runs. Usually in the 120s at the beginning of the 1/4 mile then seeing 140 to 150 at the end depending on the outside temps.

[DorkMissile]

I'll throw this out there - would you consider running meth?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

I'll throw this out there - would you consider running meth?

Works really good when your IAT are 200 to bring them down to 150 but when they are 150 you might only bring them down to 130

The higher the temp the more effective it is.

I am sure someone will in interpret this wrong and flame me for it.

[647]

So what are some ways to reduce IATs? Currently running above 150 with an expansion tank and a 25GPM pump. Next week I will be adding meth injection and Ethanol, but I would like to get it down even further, this Phoenix heat is bad.

Is there a an aftermarket heat exchanger that you can easily swap with the stock whipple one?
I have seen crossover tube deletes for the LT4, will that work with a whipple or is there one that will?

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Works really good when your IAT are 200 to bring them down to 150 but when they are 150 you might only bring them down to 130

The higher the temp the more effective it is.

I am sure someone will in interpret this wrong and flame me for it.

I am running an Alky kit with my ECS setup and the air/air does a decent job of keeping me 10 degrees or so over ambient when driving, but when the boost comes on and the MAP sensor signals the Alky controller, IATs drop pretty fast.

This weekend doing some quick pulls on really bad air (96 ambient, 85+% Humidity) it would drop IATs from 105-110 down to 60 degrees in about a second.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

I am running an Alky kit with my ECS setup and the air/air does a decent job of keeping me 10 degrees or so over ambient when driving, but when the boost comes on and the MAP sensor signals the Alky controller, IATs drop pretty fast.

This weekend doing some quick pulls on really bad air (96 ambient, 85+% Humidity) it would drop IATs from 105-110 down to 60 degrees in about a second.

You are talking Fahrenheit correct?

Wondering if the Meth is making contact with your air temp sensor.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 647

So what are some ways to reduce IATs? Currently running above 150 with an expansion tank and a 25GPM pump. Next week I will be adding meth injection and Ethanol, but I would like to get it down even further, this Phoenix heat is bad.

Is there a an aftermarket heat exchanger that you can easily swap with the stock whipple one?
I have seen crossover tube deletes for the LT4, will that work with a whipple or is there one that will?

There are optional heat exchangers, if your tank is aluminum you can swap it for a plastic one or insulate it so it does not absorb heat.

Larger fittings in the intercooler, larger lines and smoother fittings will all assist in cooling.

You also must make sure your tune includes the proper calibration for the Whipple supplied air temp sensor or your readings are false.

Ted.

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

I am running an Alky kit with my ECS setup and the air/air does a decent job of keeping me 10 degrees or so over ambient when driving, but when the boost comes on and the MAP sensor signals the Alky controller, IATs drop pretty fast.

This weekend doing some quick pulls on really bad air (96 ambient, 85+% Humidity) it would drop IATs from 105-110 down to 60 degrees in about a second.

I looked at my datalogs and during a 1/4 mile run, the IATs start at 115 or so and by the end of the run they're at 55.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

I looked at my datalogs and during a 1/4 mile run, the IATs start at 115 or so and by the end of the run they're at 55.

C or F?

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

C or F?

F

The meth nozzle is about 6-7 inches in front of the throttle body. The IAT sensor I know was moved to intake manifold somewhere. I know this because.....they said

"We’re still planning on having it done by Thursday afternoon. We do need to add one more thing, we need to break the IAT sensor out of the MAF and install it in the manifold. That will run an additional $189.95 + Tax. It allows the computer to see the IAT post Meth and it is important."

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

F

The meth nozzle is about 6-7 inches in front of the throttle body. The IAT sensor I know was moved to intake manifold somewhere. I know this because.....they said

"We’re still planning on having it done by Thursday afternoon. We do need to add one more thing, we need to break the IAT sensor out of the MAF and install it in the manifold. That will run an additional $189.95 + Tax. It allows the computer to see the IAT post Meth and it is important."

I have a feeling your Meth is hitting your IAT sensor as well.

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I have a feeling your Meth is hitting your IAT sensor as well.

I assume (by the way you're responding) there's a place to mount the IAT sensor where no meth and only air hits it. if so, where is that sweet spot?

thanks in advance