[LT4Greg]

Everyone remember the time we are living in now. Everything is more expensive now and prices keep rising everyday it seems. I was quoted around $900.00 to have a brake job done on my 2005 1500 Silverado regular cab truck a couple of months ago at the local dealership here. It has front discs and rear drums and the drums are more expensive to replace. The price didn’t include front rotors either. I was going to get brake work and new tires there but found a local tire shop that has been in business for over 50 years that gave me a better deal on tires and even checked the brakes too. The Tech told me my brakes were good and didn’t need to be changed which was a relief. The Chevy dealership never had my truck in the shop as I was a walk in customer to get a quote but I have had work done there before on my 2016 2SS Camaro which I haven’t owned since 2019.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Theroider

Update. I have the part numbers and price break down on the invoice. Parts total about $600 for 2 rotors and 4 pads. Labor is $350.

I’ve done some online shopping and found the parts to be $400 which includes shipping.

Dealer is giving me at this point 10% off which takes him down to about $850. I can probably get him lower, too.

I’m not sure it’s worth it to go out on my own to save about $100. Piece of mind, as they say, is priceless.


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Do you mind sharing the part numbers please? I want to know the most recent part numbers since they change all the time.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Important to know if rotors are parts of this price ($950). If it is just pads, the price is absurd, even if they turn the old rotors (which they should).

yes, brakes are pretty easy. But I know many guys who fancy themselves handymen or DIY'ers, but don't trust themselves to touch brakes. I get it.

I would find out exactly what's included for the dealer price.
I would suggest getting a price from a local mechanic. Offer to buy the parts yourself and just pay for labor. This is probably your cheapest option short of full DIY. Plus you can switch to ceramic pads if you don't track the car.

It's kind of hard to find anyone that will turn a rotor any more, at least at the dealerships. Rotors are now sized to wear out at the same time as the pads. With such small amounts of material and tolerance, most shops don't want to turn them and put them at the low end of the material scale...

[wavsine]

Originally Posted by Theroider

I need new front Brembos on 2019 Camaro 2SS. It’s gone 23k miles.

I don't think anybody has asked this but how the hell do you need new pads at only 23k miles? I am still on my original pads at 80,000 miles.

[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by wavsine

I don't think anybody has asked this but how the hell do you need new pads at only 23k miles? I am still on my original pads at 80,000 miles.

I'm at 25k. Just looked at mine last weekend. Prematurely bought front and rears that I didn't use due to vibration issues I was able to resolve with some grinding and rebedding. I'll admit fronts are much more worn than rears and I think I'll get another 15k out of the front. Track days and driving style play a big part. Also terrain and weight transfer in the mountains

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by ember1205

It's kind of hard to find anyone that will turn a rotor any more, at least at the dealerships.

My dealership did it. I didn't mind them turning the rotors so much as reinstalling the mangled alignment bolts! And I'm friends with the family that owns the place! Guess I got special treatment.

[Theroider]

Originally Posted by wavsine

I don't think anybody has asked this but how the hell do you need new pads at only 23k miles? I am still on my original pads at 80,000 miles.

So, the car is my 19 year old son’s. I was hoping Brembos would be more resilient and beefier, but, ah youth. I went through a ton of front brakes on my Eagle Talon TSI AWD when I was in my weekly 20s.

I question the need for brakes at this age and mileage. What am I to do though? Not believe the dealer’s measurement? The inspection report reveals they’re under 3mm.


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[Theroider]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Do you mind sharing the part numbers please? I want to know the most recent part numbers since they change all the time.

Sure.

Pads: 84732488
Rotor: 13528522


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[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by ember1205

Rotors are now sized to wear out at the same time as the pads.

This is incorrect. There's a minimum thickness advertised by the rotor manufacturer. Measure the rotor thickness. I would be shocked if it was already below minimum thickness at 23k miles. Inspect for cracks and if none are found, reuse the same rotors with the new pads.

[cdrptrks]

Front rotors for SS non-1LE appear to be 30mm new and minimum/discard thickness appears to be 28mm: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...98&postcount=4

This info may be stamped on the edge of the rotor.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

This is incorrect. There's a minimum thickness advertised by the rotor manufacturer. Measure the rotor thickness. I would be shocked if it was already below minimum thickness at 23k miles. Inspect for cracks and if none are found, reuse the same rotors with the new pads.

Yes, there is a minimum thickness. But... If you replace the pads and turn the rotors, the likelihood is that the rotors will wear down -below- that minimum thickness before the pads need replacing again. In reality, there are two "minimum thicknesses" for rotors - the minimum for use with a new set of pads and the minimum overall (below which they are no longer able to provide proper braking). The first one is basically how thick the rotors are when new.

[gpskinzhut]

Originally Posted by ember1205

Yes, there is a minimum thickness. But... If you replace the pads and turn the rotors, the likelihood is that the rotors will wear down -below- that minimum thickness before the pads need replacing again. In reality, there are two "minimum thicknesses" for rotors - the minimum for use with a new set of pads and the minimum overall (below which they are no longer able to provide proper braking). The first one is basically how thick the rotors are when new.

You're far more likely to warp the hell out of them after turning them than you are to wear them beyond minimum operable thickness.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by gpskinzhut

You're far more likely to warp the hell out of them after turning them than you are to wear them beyond minimum operable thickness.

Warping is more likely as the material thickness decreases. So, while you're statement is technically true, it's also why most shops don't turn rotors any longer when replacing pads - the likelihood of warping due to low material amounts goes way up.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by ember1205

the likelihood of warping due to low material amounts goes way up.

Warping of brake rotors is a misnomer. You would need the heat of Vulcan's forge to warp them.
What really happens is DTV or disc thickness variation. This is basically caused by rotors being mounted slightly crooked. Maybe dirt or rust between hub and rotor or torqued improperly. Anyway the misalignment allows the brake pads to catch the edges of the rotors and wear them unevenly. This happens even when pedal not applied. I think even like 10-20 microns of uneven runout can be sensed as pedal pulsation.
Best advice is to make sure mounting surfaces are super clean when you put on new rotors.