[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

My 305/30/19 RE71s look similar, though to a lesser extent. Seems like they may like more camber but the outer edges are not excessively worn so IDK.

Also, I managed to beat a gt350 with a really good driver on Sunday by about .06s for a 2nd place in CAM-C. I had a run 1 full second faster but hit one cone, would have got me top a 10 PAX, maybe next time... ended up 17th this time, which I'm very happy with.

Nice Dave. I have found with re71s, -2.6 camber the west is pretty even. It could use a bit more -camber to get totally even wear on inside and outside blocks. And that’s with a hotchkiss front bar set soft. As an example I found with stock front bar , I needed about 2psi more in tires to keep wear at arrows same as the bigger bar.

[apexit53]

Bushings are fixed!

The bracket holes were a little short so i had to make them longer to fit. Once i did they went on great and the bar is back to normal.

One thing i would note is these bushings are smaller than the ones that came with the sway bar. mainly in the area where they butt up to the chassis. Under load i can hear the collar that holds the bushing in place on the bar rubbing the chassis just ever sooo slightly. Other than that zero issues.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by apexit53

Bushings are fixed!

The bracket holes were a little short so i had to make them longer to fit. Once i did they went on great and the bar is back to normal.

One thing i would note is these bushings are smaller than the ones that came with the sway bar. mainly in the area where they butt up to the chassis. Under load i can hear the collar that holds the bushing in place on the bar rubbing the chassis just ever sooo slightly. Other than that zero issues.

Nice!

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by apexit53

One thing i would note is these bushings are smaller than the ones that came with the sway bar. mainly in the area where they butt up to the chassis. Under load i can hear the collar that holds the bushing in place on the bar rubbing the chassis just ever sooo slightly. Other than that zero issues.

I wonder if it would make sense to use a 1/4" metal shim to move the bar a little further away from the frame so the collars wouldn't rub anymore? I don't think that would be too hard to make with some aluminum stock and a drill for the two bolt holes, it wouldn't have to be space-shuttle precise to work well either.

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by apexit53

Bushings are fixed!

The bracket holes were a little short so i had to make them longer to fit. Once i did they went on great and the bar is back to normal.

One thing i would note is these bushings are smaller than the ones that came with the sway bar. mainly in the area where they butt up to the chassis. Under load i can hear the collar that holds the bushing in place on the bar rubbing the chassis just ever sooo slightly. Other than that zero issues.

Good find with those other bushings, but you could've just used my fix.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576751

Everyone that buys a BMR front swaybar needs to know about this. To @jpaulson who believed BMR and bought their machined brackets as they recommended...that's not going to fix the problem. You need wider brackets for support or those harder delrin bushings probably.

[apexit53]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

Good find with those other bushings, but you could've just used my fix.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576751

Everyone that buys a BMR front swaybar needs to know about this. To @jpaulson who believed BMR and bought their machined brackets as they recommended...that's not going to fix the problem. You need wider brackets for support or those harder delrin bushings probably.

I know, I just like to attempt things so we all have more options when the problem comes

[Clam]

If anybody in CAM C is thinking about putting aero on the car to get more overall grip, I say do it! I had my first event with a new Extreme Online Store ZL1 1LE front splitter paired with a 1LE Extended Wickerbill and found a ton of grip everywhere to finally take the win in CAM C by a full second and placed 10th out of 145 drivers in Pax.



Note that the front splitter is a direct bolt on to the SS while the wickerbill will require five new holes to be drilled into the trunk of a SS as the holes are meant to be mounted on a 1LE.




I also used colored matched teflon vinyl to cover up the unused holes (especially the middle hole from the SS pedestal), so the holes are sealed and not visible.

[rotis]

My first weekend on Nankangs - 315/30-18 on 18x12 square. I think these feel better than Yoks for sure. The feel reminds me of the Rival-S 1.5, but with more grip. Pretty happy with them so far, curious to see how they do later in the year when it's colder. The run was actually +1, but I don't really care, I still think it was my best driven run of the weekend. It woulda been top index by a bit if it was clean, but I ended up 2nd on a run that was a half second slower. I had a lot of steering corrections on entry just because my timing was off. I think with a little more seat time I'll really get in tune with the tire.

[PedalFaster]

Originally Posted by rotis

My first weekend on Nankangs - 315/30-18 on 18x12 square. I think these feel better than Yoks for sure.

Just to clarify, do you feel the Nankangs are better tires than Yoks, or you think the feel of the Nankangs is better than the feel of the Yoks?

I think you're saying the latter but wanted to confirm.

[rotis]

The feel of the Nankang is better than the feel of the Yok.

The Nankangs also deal with the heat better. With the #heavychevy the Yoks noticeably fall off late in a 45-sec run. Didn't have that issue on the 'kangs.

Are they faster? Probably not, but on a warm day in Packwood it's the tire I'd rather be on.

[IntegraR0064]

I haven't run nankangs on a camaro but we've run them extensively in 245/40/17 on the STR ND miata so have a lot of experience with that size on that car at least. They need more pressure than the yoks and they have a much narrower temp window. They both work worse when cold and also when hot they're much worse. Basically they need to be in a narrower temp band to be ideal. Similar to RE71R temperature band of 1st run is slower but not too bad and you need to start spraying a couple runs in.

In terms of speed on some surfaces they're about equal with yoks and on some surfaces they're quite a bit slower than yoks. Also seems like they need an event or two to be scrubbed in, our first event they were really bad. Looking at data they generate the same amount of force but the kangers are harder to drive with a sharper fall off in force vs slip angle so basically less forgiving. Also again the temp thing can be a problem if they start getting hot mid run it's much worse than it is with yoks.

It's interesting that you saw things differently on the camaro with regard to hot tires, wonder if that's a tire size thing. Part of it probably is the yoks really like camber, which we have lots of on the miata but wouldn't on a BS camaro.

[rotis]

I've got plenty of camber, -3.8 degrees up front and I've gotten even wear on every tire I've put on the car so far. The Nankangs are not great cold like the Yok, that's for sure. I started spraying after 2nd runs, and the tire felt good afterward. (the car was being double-driven)

I don't have a good sense for the upper temp range of the Nankang yet, but it definitely didn't overheat and fall off mid-run like the Yok in similar temps. I've got PDR data, so I can at least compare tire temps when each of the runs started.

[94boosted]

Going to be running some 295/325 SC3's this weekend. Any suggestions on a target hot pressure? Going to compare them to the Falkens back to back.

[94boosted]

Originally Posted by 94boosted

Going to be running some 295/325 SC3's this weekend. Any suggestions on a target hot pressure? Going to compare them to the Falkens back to back.

Well I think I confirmed what most of the fast guys probably already knew, the GYSC3's aren't in the same ballpark as the Falken's. I did a bit of tire testing at a locall autocross yesterday. Course was the same from the morning to the afternoon other than the turnaround direction. Most folks seemed to find a few tenths between the morning and the afternoon. Morning I ran some 295/325 GY SC3's and afternoon I switched back to the tried and true 275/305 660's.



AM


PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3an3TA3lZ0








After morning runs I was sitting 2nd in BS and 4th in PAX about a half a second off the pace. After putting the Falkens on in the afternoon and doing a few runs I found them to be about a second faster than the GY's taking into account course familiarity. It was just barely enough to take 1st PAX and in class. Now I'd like to do the same comparison against the Nankang's.