[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

With TPMS sensors that let you know when your pressure drops, in fact they give you a warning, I just don't see this as a realistic scenario.

Opinions aside, I've personally seen it happen twice where pressure dropped fast enough at speed where there was no way to reasonably avoid driving on and damaging a run-flat. Both times the holes weren't so large that sealant couldn't be used. Highly dependent on the driver knowing that the tire should be replaced or at least dismounted and inspected if that happens, and it's a pretty safe bet that not everyone will.

Even if my experiences are rare occurrences, sounds like there's the assumption that all people are going to react immediately to TPMS warnings. Not everyone can or will pull over right away to fix a TPMS warning. I've seen completely shredded run-flats where the driver ignored the 0 PSI warning. They thought the pressure sensor was wrong since the tire didn't "look flat." Not a stretch to figure that there are people in the middle that'll still seal and inflate a run-flat but will take their time doing it because it doesn't look as bad as a non-RoF does.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Opinions aside, I've personally seen it happen twice where pressure dropped fast enough at speed where there was no way to reasonably avoid driving on and damaging a run-flat.

If that happened with a non-run flat, you'd also drive on and damage the non-run-flat tire and you'd have the same problem with the tire integrity, probably worse. Non-sequitur. Again, I fail to see any difference where you can't use fix-a-flat in a run-flat tire.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

If that happened with a non-run flat, you'd also drive on and damage the non-run-flat tire and you'd have the same problem with the tire integrity, probably worse. Non-sequitur. Again, I fail to see any difference where you can't use fix-a-flat in a run-flat tire.

Of the two rapid pressure loss experiences I'm referencing, one was a RoF on the freeway, the other wasn't a RoF on a track. Neither issues could be addressed immediately. Both driven at similar speeds, distances, and pressures before coming to a stop. RoF tire was damaged to the point of needing replacement while the non-RoF was inspected, patched, and lived on for another 8k miles until cords without issue. Are these fringe cases that require some pretty bad luck to experience? Probably, but nonetheless still possible.

My experiences aside, the point I'm trying to highlight for OP, you, and anyone else that appears to be under the impression that the sealant kit was supposed to be included with a car built with run-flats is that it's left out on purpose. It's not solely cost or weight savings, but also liability for the OEM unnecessarily giving an unwitting customer the means to turn a flat tire into a blow-out.

I'll admit my original by statement of, "sealant isn't supposed to be used with run-flats," is worded poorly vs. what I'm trying to convey. Sealant can be used as long as care is taken to make sure it's not used on a tire that should really be replaced. However, since it's not necessarily common knowledge when a run-flat should be replaced even though it looks OK on the exterior, it's not a generally recommended practice.

[Paulman]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Of the two rapid pressure loss experiences I'm referencing, one was a RoF on the freeway, the other wasn't a RoF on a track. Neither issues could be addressed immediately. Both driven at similar speeds, distances, and pressures before coming to a stop. RoF tire was damaged to the point of needing replacement while the non-RoF was inspected, patched, and lived on for another 8k miles until cords without issue. Are these fringe cases that require some pretty bad luck to experience? Probably, but nonetheless still possible.

My experiences aside, the point I'm trying to highlight for OP, you, and anyone else that appears to be under the impression that the sealant kit was supposed to be included with a car built with run-flats is that it's left out on purpose. It's not solely cost or weight savings, but also liability for the OEM unnecessarily giving an unwitting customer the means to turn a flat tire into a blow-out.

I'll admit my original by statement of, "sealant isn't supposed to be used with run-flats," is worded poorly vs. what I'm trying to convey. Sealant can be used as long as care is taken to make sure it's not used on a tire that should really be replaced. However, since it's not necessarily common knowledge when a run-flat should be replaced even though it looks OK on the exterior, it's not a generally recommended practice.

Thanks for the advice - well said. I guess my next question would be what the best non run flat tire would be for this car for track use
Thanks again

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by Paulman

Thanks for the advice - well said. I guess my next question would be what the best non run flat tire would be for this car for track use
Thanks again

That's a tough question to answer lol. The "best" tire will depend a lot on what you're using the car for.

• If you're still learning vehicle control at the limit and/or want a cheaper solution, OE tires are still OK. They're relatively cheap (assuming you don't have to replace them before the tread is gone), can still find them lightly used for a good price, and they stand up to track use.
• If you're looking for a good all-around tire, something like the Michelin PS4S or Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 would be worth a look. They won't be the fastest when dry but they don't turn completely bad in the wet and are still well suited for daily/street driving.
• If wanting a more dedicated track tire, the GY Supercar3 is an example of the next step up. They'll be faster in the dry than PS4S or FI500 but not as good once things get wet and not as well mannered on the street in varying weather. I think the Falken AZENIS RT660 is another tire that's similar to the GY but I've not known anyone personally that's used them since they're relatively new. I plan to stick mainly in this class since they perform respectably but don't get used up as fast as the <200TW tires
• Highest performance maintaining DOT legality would be something like GY Supercar3R, Pirelli P Zero, Michelin Cup 2, and most other <200TW tires. They're practically racing slicks at that point and will be almost as fast as you can get for the track, they'll be used up faster and will be more costly to keep replacing.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

That's a tough question to answer lol. The "best" tire will depend a lot on what you're using the car for.

• If you're still learning vehicle control at the limit and/or want a cheaper solution, OE tires are still OK. They're relatively cheap (assuming you don't have to replace them before the tread is gone), can still find them lightly used for a good price, and they stand up to track use.
• If you're looking for a good all-around tire, something like the Michelin PS4S or Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 would be worth a look. They won't be the fastest when dry but they don't turn completely bad in the wet and are still well suited for daily/street driving.
• If wanting a more dedicated track tire, the GY Supercar3 is an example of the next step up. They'll be faster in the dry than PS4S or FI500 but not as good once things get wet and not as well mannered on the street in varying weather. I think the Falken AZENIS RT660 is another tire that's similar to the GY but I've not known anyone personally that's used them since they're relatively new. I plan to stick mainly in this class since they perform respectably but don't get used up as fast as the <200TW tires
• Highest performance maintaining DOT legality would be something like GY Supercar3R, Pirelli P Zero, Michelin Cup 2, and most other <200TW tires. They're practically racing slicks at that point and will be almost as fast as you can get for the track, they'll be used up faster and will be more costly to keep replacing.

I agree with all of this. SC3 wasn't a great street tire, it needed to be really warm, it tram-lined like crazy, and the slightest amount of moisture would have it hydroplaning, more than the slightest amount of moisture and hydroplaning below 65mph was easily achievable. The PS4S is much more livable day-to-day without giving up much traction. It's not like changing to an AS tire, yet it's almost infinitely better in the wet. It tends to be one of the best balances between street performance and occasional racing. And then when you move up to those lower treadwear race tires, you really need separate wheels and so on.

[conemark]

Originally Posted by Paulman

Thanks for the advice - well said. I guess my next question would be what the best non run flat tire would be for this car for track use....

It's a bit of a conflict there, since most of the run-flat type tires aren't in the league of the stickier 200TW tires you can drive to and from the track (then again, I've driven my Z06 to local autocrosses on Hoosier A7's).

With that said, there are some Michelin ZP's (Zero Pressure) tires that may fit the criteria. The Pilot Super Sport ZP (standard tire on various C7 Corvettes) is a 300TW tire that you can find in a 245/285 19inch mix.

There is the Pilot Sport Cup 2 ZP, a 180TW tire, in the 285/30R19 size. Pair that with the PSS ZP in a 245/35R19 front to make a staggered set for the V6 1LE.

Let us know which way you go

[Paulman]

All excellent advice from all of you.
I really appreciate it.

Since I have another daily driver I like your ideas of the Michelins and the Goodyear SC3 with an aggressive tread wear value between 200 and 300