[NEGXXIS]

Originally Posted by 2010REDSS

Get Mac's Kit #511658 and select the 40" Axle Straps option - they are long enough to go through 11" and 12" wide wheels. (And they are of course fleece lined to protect your wheels). I also got the 8' long Direct Hook Ratchet straps. The Direct Hook option is really nice.

Go here....

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/pr...Tie-Down-Packs

These are amazing! I used them on my 2010 Camaro SS show car for about 3 years.

[Cooter42]

Originally Posted by kaamacat

Did you go with Aluminum track, galvanized, powered coated?

Great question. Pretty sure galvanized. I’ll have to double check next time I see it in storage and let you know.

[kaamacat]

Originally Posted by Cooter42

Great question. Pretty sure galvanized. I’ll have to double check next time I see it in storage and let you know.

I've got US Cargo's Galvanized coming (the MACs T6061, w/o the downturns
in the slots was making me think those fittings may not be as tight). But looks like Galvanized (G90 dip) against aluminum will be fine. MACs TireBlock Straps plus the low idler strap (two eTrack fittings with 2" strap between). Just-in-case I want to take it a tad lower to the eTrack rail.

BTW...thanks for checking!

[TheElementalCashew]

I use through the wheel straps. Have no issues with rubbing the splitter.

[kaamacat]

Sooo... Where it ended-up was. Have the Aluma 8220 (20') Tilt trailer, where the tilt section is just a shade over 20', so the total platform is closer to 21'+. The MACS straps, OverTheTire with rubber blocks and e-Track ends. 4-8' sections of eTrack held down with Button Torx Self Threading or Bolt Thru. I used all self threading first, then backed the ones out where I could actually use a bolt/nut setup... Nice part was, the threads where there vs just a drilled hole. (Used similar bolts where a nut/washer could reach on the other side). There is about a 2' gap between the front/rear e-tracks. All threads coated with marine grade anti-seize.

Finally got to us the setup this past weekend up at RoadAtlanta. All I can say is WOW, I could not be happier with the total package as I set it up. And the tilt-trailer is just amazing... Not cheap overall but, what an outstanding trailering rig now!

[66SuperSport]

Originally Posted by kaamacat

Sooo... Where it ended-up was. Have the Aluma 8220 (20') Tilt trailer, where the tilt section is just a shade over 20', so the total platform is closer to 21'+. The MACS straps, OverTheTire with rubber blocks and e-Track ends. 4-8' sections of eTrack held down with Button Torx Self Threading or Bolt Thru. I used all self threading first, then backed the ones out where I could actually use a bolt/nut setup... Nice part was, the threads where there vs just a drilled hole. (Used similar bolts where a nut/washer could reach on the other side). There is about a 2' gap between the front/rear e-tracks. All threads coated with marine grade anti-seize.

Finally got to us the setup this past weekend up at RoadAtlanta. All I can say is WOW, I could not be happier with the total package as I set it up. And the tilt-trailer is just amazing... Not cheap overall but, what an outstanding trailering rig now!

PICS ?????

[mlee]

Originally Posted by 66SuperSport

PICS ?????

X2

[kaamacat]

Sorry for the dark pics....

[Stephen12ZL1]

cars leaving the factory have spacers in the front springs and are strapped to the frame. All larger car carriers use frame mounts vs tire straps. You could argue for days which one is "better". Yeah, UHAUL uses tire straps for Joe Homemaker but does that make it the gold standard for strapping a car to a trailer? Frame/control arm strapping crossed has always served me well and I will continue to strap this way. Anyone above that wants their car "floating and rebounding" on a trailer needs to have their heads examined. Even with frame mounts the car is definitely not solid and the suspension still continues to have some compliance.

[ramairroughneck]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

cars leaving the factory have spacers in the front springs and are strapped to the frame. All larger car carriers use frame mounts vs tire straps. You could argue for days which one is "better". Yeah, UHAUL uses tire straps for Joe Homemaker but does that make it the gold standard for strapping a car to a trailer? Frame/control arm strapping crossed has always served me well and I will continue to strap this way. Anyone above that wants their car "floating and rebounding" on a trailer needs to have their heads examined. Even with frame mounts the car is definitely not solid and the suspension still continues to have some compliance.

Actually I see them held by the wheels/tires quite often. I threw the alignment off on my Z06 tie-ing to the frame and ruined the tires. At least I believe that’s what did it. I plan to E-track my trailer floor to tie over the tires soon. Even if you argue it doesn’t throw alignment off, tie-ing over the tires is so much easier and faster

[fosterelli]

Tire straps are by far the most common, as using frame points is very difficult with the big carriers (angles of straps, rub points, clearances). Every car/truck is different, too many makes/models, the rigging would be extremely difficult if not using tires...tires are easiest (and safe enough to be industry standard).

[Stocktastic]

Originally Posted by TheElementalCashew

I use through the wheel straps. Have no issues with rubbing the splitter.

How's that Colorado do towing the ZL1? Asking because I also have a Colorado and will be pulling my 1LE.

[Stephen12ZL1]

OK...I still see both ways in an "images" search. Thanks for the info.

[TheElementalCashew]

Originally Posted by Stocktastic

How's that Colorado do towing the ZL1? Asking because I also have a Colorado and will be pulling my 1LE.

It did well, but I have the Duramax version. I towed from TX to NH with no issues. The only time it struggled is when I needed to pass while at highway speeds.