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Old 01-11-2019, 11:40 AM   #43
BLUPASTU
 
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Drives: 2018 Camaro 1SS Blue
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A quick question guys - I spliced into my factory amp outputs leading to an LC7i then to a mids/highs amp, then a bass amp feeding two 12's. I have had this system in place for a month with no issues at all until today. Suddenly, sometimes when I start the car I get the notorious engine sound in the subs ordeal. It's not every time, but it's very annoying. I can't think of why it would suddenly appear after a month with no issues. I pulled the end harness on the factory amp and that stopped it, but am curious if this has been anyone's experience and maybe someone knows why it wasn't an issue for a month. Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:15 PM   #44
JaxChris

 
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Center and sub on all the integration modules are just a simple summing of the flat input it receives from the bus.
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:03 PM   #45
drfeelgood
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUPASTU View Post
A quick question guys - I spliced into my factory amp outputs leading to an LC7i then to a mids/highs amp, then a bass amp feeding two 12's. I have had this system in place for a month with no issues at all until today. Suddenly, sometimes when I start the car I get the notorious engine sound in the subs ordeal. It's not every time, but it's very annoying. I can't think of why it would suddenly appear after a month with no issues. I pulled the end harness on the factory amp and that stopped it, but am curious if this has been anyone's experience and maybe someone knows why it wasn't an issue for a month. Thanks!
NOt sure why it was happening on and off. HSould have been happening from the beginning. The PAC, and NavTV units would have prevented that.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:14 PM   #46
JaxChris

 
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Watch the voltage on the dash during longer drives. Do you occasionally find your system dropping close to or below 12v? I had a bad chassis ground that caused intermittent strained & failed hot starts due to irregular resistance when the car was hot. If I had a sound system before that was fixed, I would've expected to hear whine or other noise skipping off of the charging system as the battery ran low. It was bad enough that it started shorting my instrument cluster.

Once the car cooled down, resistance went back to normal and charging system worked as expected again without noise. If you find your voltage isn't consistent on 1-2 hour drives and there are random low points, take your car to the dealer (covered under powertrain because of lack of starting) and get them to identify which ground is faulty so they can replace it.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:25 PM   #47
BLUPASTU
 
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JaxChris - nice info, thanks! I have noticed some strange charging, wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not. It has never failed to start, but I have seen it mostly above 14v, sometimes 15v. Then I'll look down and it's at 13v. I have heard it has smart charging, so maybe that's all it is. I don't think I've ever seen it at 12v, but you bet I'll be watching closer now.

It would have been great to get the PAC or NavTV, but funds prevented it. I will get the PAC eventually...
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Old 01-16-2019, 09:40 AM   #48
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Yes, there is a controller that will lower the output when the system is at capacity and only sends a maintenance charge. But if you see extremely low voltages or failed/hard/strained starts when very hot or very cold, then you could have an intermittent grounding issue. Not saying it is definitely the answer, but I did have it and it's a known issue with a lack of QC on the grounding cables on these cars.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:28 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaxChris View Post
Yes, there is a controller that will lower the output when the system is at capacity and only sends a maintenance charge. But if you see extremely low voltages or failed/hard/strained starts when very hot or very cold, then you could have an intermittent grounding issue. Not saying it is definitely the answer, but I did have it and it's a known issue with a lack of QC on the grounding cables on these cars.
Did they tell you exactly where the problem with the grounding was at?
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:17 PM   #50
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Yep. Here is everything done to resolve:
Replaced Starter Solenoid Cable pair due to high resistance when hot
Replaced G103 (Block to Radiator) due to high resistance when hot
Tightened G201
Tightened G121
Tightened G130

If you find trouble with hot restarts and you know your battery is good, then have the dealer let the car run idle for a few hours in the sun (bring it in with a full tank), they should then shut it off, refire the car, and find a collection of U codes signaling an issue with the wiring.
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