[OnThr3]

Hi guys!

So I know theres a few options on the market or at least a few... But I wanted to know any of those who have drop ins which ones are best and what can they handle. Ultimately I need them to go further with the build (probably needed them a couple of mods ago)

car makes 725 whp, whipple 2.9, btr stage 2 supercharged cam, circle d 3200-3400 stall, alky dual m10 methanol nozzle, rotofab big gulp, longtube headers, x pipe, mbrp axle back, lt4 injectors, lt4 hpfp, dsx aux fuel pump. Car makes 9.5lbs of boost.

What do i need to safely run more boost? How much boost is safe on which drop ins and how far can you get on them? Are other engine components needed to run say 850-950 whp safely??

Praise the forums

[LT1ornothing]

Drops ins should be safe to at least 1000rwhp, provided plenty of fuel. Would be good to max out your whipple. I think you have a more costly fuel barrier to overcome at those levels. Might need either the addition of port injection system or go heavy duty on the direct injection system,. Really depends on how much meth you're going to use AND how you intend to use it. GPI seems to get lots of attention on their drop ins.

[NYblack1le]

Call up James or Zack at GPI or send them a message on Facebook. I believe the drop ins are good for about 900whp or more. I just did them on my car and they are a true “drop in”. Boys at GPI are great!

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by OnThr3

Hi guys!

So I know theres a few options on the market or at least a few... But I wanted to know any of those who have drop ins which ones are best and what can they handle. Ultimately I need them to go further with the build (probably needed them a couple of mods ago)

car makes 725 whp, whipple 2.9, btr stage 2 supercharged cam, circle d 3200-3400 stall, alky dual m10 methanol nozzle, rotofab big gulp, longtube headers, x pipe, mbrp axle back, lt4 injectors, lt4 hpfp, dsx aux fuel pump. Car makes 9.5lbs of boost.

What do i need to safely run more boost? How much boost is safe on which drop ins and how far can you get on them? Are other engine components needed to run say 850-950 whp safely??

Praise the forums

I’ll second the GPI drop-ins. They are very nice quality and should handle 1000 WHP without a problem (good tuning and fuel, as always). Plus, you can go with 10:1 compression instead which allows you to reduce your octane needs a bit. I’m over 800 WHP on 93 octane only with those pistons.

[jamessh10]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I’ll second the GPI drop-ins. They are very nice quality and should handle 1000 WHP without a problem (good tuning and fuel, as always). Plus, you can go with 10:1 compression instead which allows you to reduce your octane needs a bit. I’m over 800 WHP on 93 octane only with those pistons.

did you just drop them in or did you bring the block to a machine shop?

[parish8]

Originally Posted by jamessh10

did you just drop them in or did you bring the block to a machine shop?

I did the Cunningham drop ins which I dont think they even sell anymore. I just dropped them in. You do have to file the rings. I took mine to 1100hp.

Recently I put a set of the gpi ones in a 5.3. No machine work. I plan on really pushing those although the rods don’t look as beefy to me as the Cunningham rods.

I have a full set of the Cunningham rods and pistons with new rings I might try and sell.

[OnThr3]

What was the cost for a shop to go ahead and install the pistons and rods??

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by jamessh10

did you just drop them in or did you bring the block to a machine shop?

You can just “drop” them in, but I chose to have the entire shortblock pulled apart, and every single component miked and clearances documented. I didn’t want to take a chance of anything being off. The new pistons and rods are working perfectly with the factory forged crank. We were doing a new cam, VVT delete, Mast heads, etc so going a little further to be sure things were perfect didn’t seem like a bad idea. In the end, we found there was no need for the block to go to the machine shop since everything was spot on (shortblock only had 5K miles on it before tear down).

[L78toLT1]

I had my reciprocating assignment balanced when building my motor. I used the GPI piston/rod combo. My machine shop said the balance was close, but not spot-on. The balanced motor is smooth as silk, noticeably better than stock. I imagine you could just drop in the GPI parts and be as good or better than stock. If you're pulling the motor to add the drop-ins, I'd go ahead and get it balanced.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I had my reciprocating assignment balanced when building my motor. I used the GPI piston/rod combo. My machine shop said the balance was close, but not spot-on. The balanced motor is smooth as silk, noticeably better than stock. I imagine you could just drop in the GPI parts and be as good or better than stock. If you're pulling the motor to add the drop-ins, I'd go ahead and get it balanced.

Reciprocating assembly. I hate auto spell check

[teesee150]

I used GPI piston/rods on my whipple build. I only had 12k miles on my car so I truely just dropped them in myself. You will need to file fit the rings and I would of course double check bearing clearances.

[Choda]

Surprised to see no one using CP pistons and rods yet. RPM uses them on majority of their builds and they are 900-1000 wheel.

I believe I saw a video from PRAY, he uses GPI and has them balanced.

Parish's new combo will be a great test to see. Im sure hell be over 1000 wheel again.