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Old 02-27-2021, 08:25 AM   #1
Akura
 
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Question Doubts about some parts, help please.

Hello,

The upgrade is almost here, just need to buy different parts, but I have some doubts about... Which one will you buy?

Thermostat:

https://www.cspracing.com/brian-tool...ines/sd180lt1/

https://www.rdpstore.com/p-7409-chev...ts-vet-14.aspx

https://weaponxmotorsports.com/colle...nt=37648186129

https://store.vengeanceracing.net/6t...for-gen-v.html

TB:

https://weaponxmotorsports.com/colle...13603283107889

https://jannettyracing.com/products/...-including-z06

https://www.solerengineering.com/gen...ors/se9871-100

Spark plugs wires:

https://www.cspracing.com/msd-super-...cations/33829/

https://www.rdpstore.com/p-13452-tay...lt1-98013.aspx

https://weaponxmotorsports.com/produ...nt=37649422865

https://store.vengeanceracing.net/6t...-wire-set.html

Rest of mods are going to be:

- Griptec 2.31" P4230BV2Z8 (Will I need to change the belt?)

- Roto-fab Big Gulp (Will I need the adaptor for the TB?)

- Spark plugs NGK ltr71x-11

- LSA SC reservoir

- Kooks headers coated w/o cats

- 3" connection back exhaust with X-pipe hand made for use with factory mufflers.

Thank you.
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:14 PM   #2
Markoz28

 
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Thermostat CSP or vengeance. Don’t get any Mishimoto. Tons of failures and one from direct experience. Currently running stock unit with no issues.

No reason to go Big Gulp unless you are porting the Supercharger. If you are going to do that you might as well get a 103 TB. If not then Soler 95TB. The adapter is to connect the throttle body to the supercharger.

Speed Engineering wires.

You won’t need to change belts but I would still get a Green belt for added strength.
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:38 PM   #3
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Is there a real diffrence and utility to change thé spark plugs and wire ? What is gonna change in fact ?
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:13 AM   #4
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Easiest way to avoid 3rd party thermostat reliability issues: Don't replace the thermostat. The OEM is fine.

If/when you do headers, add thermal shields to the OEM wires.

Do the lower pulley before the upper. Upper pulley can have slip issues and occasionally the SC gets screwed up doing the swap.

Change plugs only if you need to change temperature due to boost/tune requirements. Do not waste time with wires, the OEM wires are fine. IIRC, plugs are usually needed about the time you run out of fuel, which is pretty early on in the evolution of folks' moar-HP escapades. So if you're not doing any fuel mods, you may not need plugs.

I see so many "I'm gonna change everything posts" followed a month or two later by "Help, my car is screwed up!" posts. Less is more. Keep it simple, stupid. Lots of stuff on the LT4 ain't broke. So don't fix it.


Love and kisses,

grumpycat

Last edited by Gunkk; 03-01-2021 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:21 AM   #5
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Katech thermostat is the only one validated at the OEM level and the only aftermarket one you should use.
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
Easiest way to avoid 3rd party thermostat reliability issues: Don't replace the thermostat. The OEM is fine.

If/when you do headers, add thermal shields to the OEM wires.

Do the lower pulley before the upper. Upper pulley can have slip issues and occasionally the SC gets screwed up doing the swap.

Change plugs only if you need to change temperature due to boost/tune requirements. Do not waste time with wires, the OEM wires are fine. IIRC, plugs are usually needed about the time you run out of fuel, which is pretty early on in the evolution of folks' moar-HP escapades. So if you're not doing any fuel mods, you may not need plugs.

I see so many "I'm gonna change everything posts" followed a month or two later by "Help, my car is screwed up!" posts. Less is more. Keep it simple, stupid. Lots of stuff on the LT4 ain't broke. So don't fix it.


Love and kisses,

grumpycat
Agreed...
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Old 03-01-2021, 10:55 AM   #7
Akura
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markoz28 View Post
Thermostat CSP or vengeance. Don’t get any Mishimoto. Tons of failures and one from direct experience. Currently running stock unit with no issues.

No reason to go Big Gulp unless you are porting the Supercharger. If you are going to do that you might as well get a 103 TB. If not then Soler 95TB. The adapter is to connect the throttle body to the supercharger.

Speed Engineering wires.

You won’t need to change belts but I would still get a Green belt for added strength.
Great, thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
Easiest way to avoid 3rd party thermostat reliability issues: Don't replace the thermostat. The OEM is fine.

If/when you do headers, add thermal shields to the OEM wires.

Do the lower pulley before the upper. Upper pulley can have slip issues and occasionally the SC gets screwed up doing the swap.

Change plugs only if you need to change temperature due to boost/tune requirements. Do not waste time with wires, the OEM wires are fine. IIRC, plugs are usually needed about the time you run out of fuel, which is pretty early on in the evolution of folks' moar-HP escapades. So if you're not doing any fuel mods, you may not need plugs.

I see so many "I'm gonna change everything posts" followed a month or two later by "Help, my car is screwed up!" posts. Less is more. Keep it simple, stupid. Lots of stuff on the LT4 ain't broke. So don't fix it.


Love and kisses,

grumpycat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Katech thermostat is the only one validated at the OEM level and the only aftermarket one you should use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
Agreed...
Interesting point of view... thank you both
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Old 03-01-2021, 10:56 AM   #8
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Are the speed-engineering headers worth it?

https://www.speed-engineering.com/sh...2l-engine.html
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Old 03-03-2021, 02:35 PM   #9
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So in fact...oem plugs and wires Can be kept and nothing ´a gonna change ou stock véhicles ... only good to do if you drive iton tracks..
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Old 03-03-2021, 03:04 PM   #10
breakskeet
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Remember, a thermostat does virtually nothing by itself. You need to tune the fans to come on at a lower point for it to be effective. It may lower temps on the highway without a tune due to the wind flow, but around town it will just open at a lower temp and then stay open until the fan comes on at the temp set in OE tune. This is why you need the fan temp set lower to take advantage of the cooler thermostat.

I think just to change it without good reason can make more problems than good. Stick with the OE thermostat.
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Old 03-03-2021, 06:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breakskeet View Post
Remember, a thermostat does virtually nothing by itself. You need to tune the fans to come on at a lower point for it to be effective. It may lower temps on the highway without a tune due to the wind flow, but around town it will just open at a lower temp and then stay open until the fan comes on at the temp set in OE tune. This is why you need the fan temp set lower to take advantage of the cooler thermostat.

I think just to change it without good reason can make more problems than good. Stick with the OE thermostat.
He’s spinning the stock blower harder, so definitely worth the effort to dial in the fans (takes 2 minutes on HPT anyway) on a Katech tstat IMO. Plus he’s definitely going to need a tune anyway with the headers and 5” Big Gulp to address MAF scaling.
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Old 03-05-2021, 11:59 AM   #12
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Yes, we are going to tune the car, thank you both
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