[MTSS1LE]

So i'm starting this thread to go over the FEA swap on my SS 1LE. Last weekend I started by installing some used DSSV's. With the front lower spring perch set at its lowest the car ride height is:

Wheel Center to Fender
Front: 14"
Rear: 14.5"

Stock Front: 15.4"
Stock Rear: 14.9"

The car has a .5" rake which I can either fix by raising the fronts or maybe getting ground control weight jackers for the rear. I'll probably wait until I can get it corner balanced and see where it sits. Right now I'm attempting a string alignment at home to get the toe within a reasonable amount. I was able to dial the camber to ~2.8 deg front/ 2.0 deg rear.



Now the only other issue is figuring out the magneride delete. I could order the KW kit but I was wondering if anyone has figured out a resistor solution like previous gen CTSV people have done. Does anyone know if this is possible?

Here's the link to the CTSV solution: https://www.ctsvowners.com/threads/m...lution.109305/

[kropscamaro16]

kw or afe power both make a kit so other than the dssv what else did you change over? also my buddy kunal who is on here has a 1le and just did the dssv swap also where you located?

[Msquared]

Just to be sure I understand this thread, "FEA" means the ZL1/1LE suspension package?

[RUQWIKR]

Did you put the FEA sway bars on along with the FEA rear springs? I assume the springs based on the lowering in the rear as well. Car looks great lowered and with that rake.

[Stephen12ZL1]

rear is sitting perfectly...raise the front .5 if you have a choice.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

rear is sitting perfectly...raise the front .5 if you have a choice.

The spring perch has +/- 10mm of threads on the FEA front strut from the nomimal / as-shipped position. Trimming it down helps lower the effective spring rate since he does not have the weight of the blower. It will be interesting to see what the perch in the nominal position does on the front of a SS 1LE for ride height.

Per the GM info: The spring seat can be adjusted approximately 0.4 inch (10 mm) up or down from the nominal position. Each complete turn of the spring perch will change the vehicle height approximately 0.06 inch (1.4 mm).

Per the Service Manual, with a full fuel load, after the suspension has been jounced fully and settled, hood, trunk and doors shut, the top of the wheel arch on the fender are as follows:

FE4 front / rear 710mm / 718mm (both +/- 12mm)
FEA front / rear 694 mm / 699 mm (both +/- 12mm)


Interesting that a FE4 SS 1LE or base ZL1 has more rake nominally than a ZL1 1LE.

That being said, for MTSS1LE's car, he said it is now at 14.0" / 14.5" from the wheel center to the wheel arch of the fender. Converting to mm and adding the other half of his stock wheel / tire combo, I calculate 695.1 mm / 713.8mm for his car as it sits. This makes me think he still has the FE4 / SS 1LE rear springs in the car. So, the front is right where it should be, but, the rear is just over 0.5" too high (to nominal) , which the FEA rear springs will take care.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

The spring perch has +/- 10mm of threads on the FEA front strut from the nomimal / as-shipped position. Trimming it down helps lower the effective spring rate since he does not have the weight of the blower. It will be interesting to see what the perch in the nominal position does on the front of a SS 1LE for ride height.

Per the GM info: The spring seat can be adjusted approximately 0.4 inch (10 mm) up or down from the nominal position. Each complete turn of the spring perch will change the vehicle height approximately 0.06 inch (1.4 mm).

Per the Service Manual, with a full fuel load, after the suspension has been jounced fully and settled, hood, trunk and doors shut, the top of the wheel arch on the fender are as follows:

FE4 front / rear 710mm / 718mm (both +/- 12mm)
FEA front / rear 694 mm / 699 mm (both +/- 12mm)


Interesting that a FE4 SS 1LE or base ZL1 has more rake nominally than a ZL1 1LE.

That being said, for MTSS1LE's car, he said it is now at 14.0" / 14.5" from the wheel center to the wheel arch of the fender. Converting to mm and adding the other half of his stock wheel / tire combo, I calculate 695.1 mm / 713.8mm for his car as it sits. This makes me think he still has the FE4 / SS 1LE rear springs in the car. So, the front is right where it should be, but, the rear is just over 0.5" too high (to nominal) , which the FEA rear springs will take care.

that sounds good too...I was only judging esthetics.

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

The spring perch has +/- 10mm of threads on the FEA front strut from the nomimal / as-shipped position. Trimming it down helps lower the effective spring rate since he does not have the weight of the blower. It will be interesting to see what the perch in the nominal position does on the front of a SS 1LE for ride height.

Per the GM info: The spring seat can be adjusted approximately 0.4 inch (10 mm) up or down from the nominal position. Each complete turn of the spring perch will change the vehicle height approximately 0.06 inch (1.4 mm).

Per the Service Manual, with a full fuel load, after the suspension has been jounced fully and settled, hood, trunk and doors shut, the top of the wheel arch on the fender are as follows:

FE4 front / rear 710mm / 718mm (both +/- 12mm)
FEA front / rear 694 mm / 699 mm (both +/- 12mm)


Interesting that a FE4 SS 1LE or base ZL1 has more rake nominally than a ZL1 1LE.

That being said, for MTSS1LE's car, he said it is now at 14.0" / 14.5" from the wheel center to the wheel arch of the fender. Converting to mm and adding the other half of his stock wheel / tire combo, I calculate 695.1 mm / 713.8mm for his car as it sits. This makes me think he still has the FE4 / SS 1LE rear springs in the car. So, the front is right where it should be, but, the rear is just over 0.5" too high (to nominal) , which the FEA rear springs will take care.

I assume he bought these ones and you are correct that he didn't get the rear springs with them.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565898

[Mountain]

But is level "good"? If the OE SS 1LE setup has rake in it (front lower), it may be there for the car's aero setup.

I don't know the OP's overall goal or driving style - just making a point about the rake vs OE aero.

[RUQWIKR]

Both FE4 and FEA have designed in rake at nominal.

[MTSS1LE]

Ya so to clarify the parts to convert FE4 to FEA:

Multimatic DSSV's (installed)
Front Stabilizer Bar (PN# 23332961)
Front Ride Links (PN# 84051643 & 84051644)
Rear Stabilizer Bar (PN# 84218218)
Rear Cradle (PN# 84224918)

Thank's a lot to Ryephile's suspension parts mastertlist!

I didn't end up getting the DSSV's from that listing but the one's I got did come with rear springs. What RUQWIKR said about spring perch adjustment changing effective spring rate was my reasoning to start with the lowest setting. Since the ride height and spring preload adjustment is coupled I wanted to try and adjust for the LT1 vs LT4 weight difference by lowering the preload to its lowest. I'll verify this with a corner balance but until then I'll live with the 0.5" rake.

None of the suspension was "jounced" or driven that long and maybe clocking the rear bushings during my at home alignment might've helped so I'll recheck the heights asap. The picture and height measurement was also taken with the fronts at 3.15 degree camber so the rake might have been exaggerated.

Interesting you brought up aero, Mountain. I actually have a decent background in aero/composites and my plan for the car is to make it a platform for some homebuilt aero. A decent splitter and dual element rear is the eventual goal. As it sits, the oem SS 1LE aero isn't too ride height dependent. Without a significant front splitter like the ZLE front fascia it doesn't sustain the stagnation point in front and most of the high pressure bleeds through the underbody. No reasonable amount of rake will solve this. So for stock aero road cars, suspension ride heights should be driven by corner balance and maintaining proper geometry (roll centers).

[RUQWIKR]

MTSS1LE: You leaving your stock FE4 rear springs in for now?

FYI, I’ve had a complete FEA suspension sitting on my shelf in my shop for a long time. Might finally put it on this Spring. Been tracking the car a lot with my young sons and never got around to the swap.

[MTSS1LE]

It already has FEA springs front and rear. After a drive I think the rear is pretty much settled and the ride heights seem even. There might still be a quarter inch of rake in it but honestly that's within my margin of error for measurement.

After a quick cruise in the canyons I have a few initial impressions: dialing up camber from SS 1LE track to ZLE track settings was a huge improvement in managing the tire during turn in and steady state. Before I'd notice a slight neutral understeer or 4 wheel drift from what I think is the sidewall rolling over and now there's no fuss. The stiffer spring rates seems to help with initial turn in since the outside tire takes that little bit less time loading up in the corner and the same thing in transitions. It seems like the rear still lags during corner entry and when you feed in the power which I've heard is mainly due to play in the sub frame. Hopefully the solid bushings should help with that.

As for the ride, around town and on the freeway it definitely is stiff and requires a bit of strategic placement avoiding sunken pothole covers but honestly it is livable. If you go in knowing what to expect and have past experience with cars on aftermarket suspension you'll be fine. My last car, a 2015 wrx, actually rode worse on its stock suspension even though it was much softer sprung. The main reason being the difference in damping quality. The DSSV deals with compression a lot faster and the ride isn't as bouncy. In the end, it can't compete with the magneride's ability to iron out major bumps. There were countless times during straight aways that I had to back off the throttle because the rear was getting unsettled where previously I'd be able to power on. I also noticed the T/C flashing many times during the drive when previously it would barely engage. It could just be me getting used to it but the fact of the matter is the DSSV has less suspension travel to deal with bumps so the car ends up moving more.

TLDR: DSSV pros are initial turn in the car loads up faster which helps with transitions. Obviously stiffer springs means less load transfer and less travel/camber loss but that's all just theory. The ride isn't terrible but it isn't so compliant that you can go down a bumpy back road with the foot planted like you can with magneride.

[RUQWIKR]

Thanks for your info above. Give some more feedback after you track the car.