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Old 12-01-2016, 10:21 PM   #57
laynlo15
 
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I'm going to start off running the non intercooled unit w/5.5 lbs of boost and with meth I can run 6.5 lbs which is plenty for the street and still get into the high 10's. Remember he was running 100 lbs heavier which we all know is a couple of tenths or more which I have the numbers to show that. I'm sure I'll end up going the intercooling route but no need for at least 7 months till it really warms up here in Missouri. That'll give me some time for plenty of tuning and dyno time before I hit the track in March.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:45 PM   #58
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Livernois SC DR only a8 ss with Magnuson went 10.6@129 here at Milan. Seen the car myself not even a cai. 93 octane.

Took him some testing and tuning. Traction problems too. A lot of his runs were 11.1-3
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:49 AM   #59
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Wow, Livernois has built some pretty fast cars.
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:54 AM   #60
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IMHO every S/C car needs to run meth on the street. Your winter to summer or repetitive run numbers will be way off if not. My 02' Z was down 12 mph winter to summer when I had my intercooled P1 kit. It was making 632rw on a cool night with no meth and only ran 11.0's@131 IIRC. Went back during the summer and it only went 12's. When I looked at the logs timing was all the way back to 6* from the 12-14* it was running in the cold. I put some meth on it and all was well. I will also say that the car was much faster N/A with my 416 making 575rw. N/A power is going to be faster at the track as long as the two cars are within 50-100rw. Especially in a M6 car. When we talk PD blowers the meth regulation is needed much more. You have a giant hot piece of metal sitting directly on top of the car. It needs some method of cooling coming into it to cool the rotors and actual metal. A HX can only do so much.

Laynlo, I don't think just the Hi Side LT4 pump will do it. The Low Side seems to run out first. Then the LT4 pump needs the injectors I believe. I think improving the injectors or pump with out the other doesn't do much. I could be wrong and should probably do some more reading on in. Both the pump and injectors are like $1,650 wholesale. For a complete fuel system you are looking at 4K without install costs.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:22 AM   #61
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I may not do anymore then just the Maggie and meth. That should be all I need to do to get into the 10's. I'm not going to throw a ton of money at this since I want to retire in a couple years. I'm going to be running mostly 1/8 mile and some occasional 1/4 mile so I doubt it will go much past that
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:41 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
I may not do anymore then just the Maggie and meth. That should be all I need to do to get into the 10's. I'm not going to throw a ton of money at this since I want to retire in a couple years. I'm going to be running mostly 1/8 mile and some occasional 1/4 mile so I doubt it will go much past that
You already have the coolest looking Drag Pack setup.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:49 AM   #63
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Pray, when you say that you put meth on your car to cool your unit, did you retune it or did you just use it for the insurance and cooling properties ?

I currently run a Whipple on another vehicle and I was under the assumption from being on other forums that using it at the throttle body (and not port injection), the meth eats at the coating on the rotors ?? Now, it may be different in the twin screw vs the roots type.?

Running Alky/meth on a boosted car will bring out the pros/cons guys to debate whether the cooling band-aid works...or is just adding more complexity to a system that is on the factory edge already.

Also, liquid does not turn as quickly as air so some of the cylinders may run slightly leaner. How is that addressed if it is used at the tb.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:47 AM   #64
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JDP Routes it at the elbow in the intake tube. From what Julio at Alky Control has said, the heat of the rotors underboost is at the appropriate temperature to burn the Methanol up instantly so it basically cools at nearly the perfect point. Any liquid that actually sat on the rotor would NOT be able to stay there long. Eventually, could there be some degradation, Sure. But as seldom as you are actually injecting, and when spraying from the elbow, I have no concerns that this will be a problem.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:10 PM   #65
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It only needs to spray at WOT doesn't it. No need to run at partial throttle. Thanks for the complement on the drag pack.
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:17 AM   #66
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I can answer more later.

I only use meth as a cooler, not a fuel or power source. I set my AFR and timing on pump and bring the meth in to knock the AFR down a tenth just so I know it is working.

Meth will also add some boost from sealing the rotors and the atomization mentioned above.

You only need it at WOT so I wouldn't worry to much about corrosion. My buddy runs it on his Gen 5 Whipple car with no issues. ECS lives on the stuff. Just ensure you set the turn on to a boost limit over what you normally see during driving. Also do that with your P.E. table.

Laynlo, I thought you were like 25 and just doing really well for your self. I hope I am still in it to win it like you are when I am your age.
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:54 AM   #67
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I've had as many cars as my age and yes I'll be 65 next month. Getting older but not slowing down. Its never been in my DNA. Still in the growing up stage. Ha
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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