[ULTRAZLS1]

Yeah they were loud on my 98 too guess I haven't grown up still don't mind it. But they are deep and sound good IMO. Scream at wot. Probably as good as it gets as far as performance and additional weight loss.
When cruising the rpm stay pretty low with a8 so it might not be that bad. Just an idea not sure I'll do it. The price of aftermarket npp systems is just ridiculous. The axleback costs as much as headers and mid pipe.

With the e85 you got a shot at 125. Is cat removal an option for you? It doesn't matter here. From what I've gathered removing both sets is worth about 10 hp. That's why I can't put the coin up for a longtube system. It seems half of the ~20 hp gain over a stock system is due to removal of the stock cats in a longtube system and going to a single set of high flows or none at all. Essentially longtubes are only worth about 10 hp it seems. I'll do them at some point but before bigger mods such as cam the gains aren't really worth it. But I may shoot for 10s stock internal so everything helps... I could end up getting them before a cam regardless who knows. At this point low 11s mild bolt on stock converter and e85 would be pretty impressive and keep me happy for a little while.

A carbon fiber driveshaft could be worth a tenth and some mph maybe consider that. But they are pricey about 1200. The aluminum isn't much heavier for about 800 bucks but it's 3.5 inch and can have some clearance problems with 3 inch systems. I'll probably go with cf

[laynlo15]

My axle back NPP is fine. I just don't think anyone is gonna pick up enough unless additional mods follow. Exhaust are pretty expensive, especially the headers.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

For sure he seems to know what he's doing just wondered.

What's your opinion on e98 vs e85?

Is the tb opening and the ports that meet the heads the only porting that is done to the lt1 manifold ? Anything internal? Can it even be split ? I'm surprised one can pick up ~10 hp by just honing out those areas if that's the case..

For the LT intakes and TB's I maximize cross section and air quality. I won't say it stays completely laminar cause I haven't checked it. But air quality to the motor is much improved. I widen the runner to 6+" back (half the runner) to as close to the opening dimensions I can, I raise the roof and lower the floor as well. I smooth out all of the transition areas "bends" to ensure uniformity and contour. I heavily work the "short turn" of this intake. I widen and smooth it as well. I try to direct the air to where the head needs it. Inside the intake inlet, behind the TB I do a lot of contouring and shaping to ensure the greatest draw that can be placed on the TB is. Remember that N/A motors are a vacuum and you have to think backwards from the valve up. What is going to create the most draw on the TB is what you are looking for. On the TB it is more of the same, contouring and shaping. I also cut the blade shaft down to about 3-4mm to ensure it isn't an obstruction or creates turbulence. I hope this helps.

You can only reach back so far in the intake. I am sure you could cut it open if you wanted but I have no interest in that. It isn't needed. I posted a graph yesterday where my IM/TB was up 21/18rw at 6,000rpm on my car. It basically carried 20rw to red line. That testing was back to back a half an hour apart without unstrapping the car.

It seems that E85 is getting the job done. E98 may work if you increased compression. Tim would be the man for that question. I have been doing everything on 93 for 22 years. I am honestly not experienced with E85.

[PRAY]

I ordered the Race Stars today and the MT's for them. Hopefully they will be here by Thursday. I will get them all mounted up Friday and see if I can't get some pump gas numbers on Sunday. Tim and I are also doing up my E85 stuff this weekend as well. I may wait till after Sunday to put some E85 at it and letting Tim work his magic. I should be all dialed in for the track rental on the 10th.

How are you guys breaking in your DR's? It has been about 10+ years since I had a new set.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by PRAY

I ordered the Race Stars today and the MT's for them. Hopefully they will be here by Thursday. I will get them all mounted up Friday and see if I can't get some pump gas numbers on Sunday. Tim and I are also doing up my E85 stuff this weekend as well. I may wait till after Sunday to put some E85 at it and letting Tim work his magic. I should be all dialed in for the track rental on the 10th.

How are you guys breaking in your DR's? It has been about 10+ years since I had a new set.

Nice.

I didn't know I was supposed to break them in...they been good so far and haven't worn much at all after about 3 trips and 20 passes. I drove 50 miles on them to the track the first time and let it rip...

They do like 16-18 psi and a pretty decent burnout. a good 5 seconds and then roll out of it. If you do that you will hook.

I ordered some 1 7/8 kooks coated longtubes with offroad connections last night Got a hell of a deal from marylandspeed.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Nice.

I didn't know I was supposed to break them in...they been good so far and haven't worn much at all after about 3 trips and 20 passes. I drove 50 miles on them to the track the first time and let it rip...

They do like 16-18 psi and a pretty decent burnout. a good 5 seconds and then roll out of it. If you do that you will hook.

I ordered some 1 7/8 kooks coated longtubes with offroad connections last night Got a hell of a deal from marylandspeed.

That's awesome. I have been throwing headers back and forth but for now they don't factor into the final plan. Plus this drag pack just broke my butt and right before Christmas of all things. Sometimes my enthusiasm gets the better of me. I don't see another mod for the money though that is going to be worth 4 tenth's or more at the track. It kills me to spend that much money on something that doesn't actually give me any more power for daily driving.

I thought there was some sort of burnout procedure for new DR's. I could be wrong. I was going to start at 22psi and work my way down. I won't waste the passes. I will head straight to 18psi and go down from there if needed.

[laynlo15]

Good to hear, you'll see the diff in weight and you should see that on the big end also.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by PRAY

That's awesome. I have been throwing headers back and forth but for now they don't factor into the final plan. Plus this drag pack just broke my butt and right before Christmas of all things. Sometimes my enthusiasm gets the better of me. I don't see another mod for the money though that is going to be worth 4 tenth's or more at the track. It kills me to spend that much money on something that doesn't actually give me any more power for daily driving.

I thought there was some sort of burnout procedure for new DR's. I could be wrong. I was going to start at 22psi and work my way down. I won't waste the passes. I will head straight to 18psi and go down from there if needed.

LOL....tell me about it. I wasn't even planning on buying the headers right now. But I was up late looking around...live chat popped up on the website and they made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Just ordered it spur of the moment. I was just going to do cat deletes. 99% chance my car will be heads cam in the future like most of them have been. And these will be good for that if not being super impressive on near stock cars.

I actually talked to MT and they said 16-18 psi. Others recommend that psi as well. They recommend 30-32 when driving on the street.

My psi measurements were warm. After driving to the track.

The burnout is essential. Every single time I don't get a good one...no go...blown 60ft.

Do you or anyone else know of a line lock kit coming out? not a universal one...something nice made for the car. I feel like im going to wear out my rear brakes very prematurely...

[laynlo15]

Ultra, do you do your burn out in Auto or manual. Heres how I do mine, roll into the water and spin the tires a couple revolutions and roll out. Put in 1st in manual mode spin the tires to 5000 rpms and shift into second and to 5000 again and let the brake off while dropping the rpms and you'll feel it hook and then let off and roll to the line. Don't chirp the tires to see if its hooking. Just pull to the line. If you look at my 60ft they are all within a few 100's because I do the same burnout procedure everytime

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Ultra, do you do your burn out in Auto or manual. Heres how I do mine, roll into the water and spin the tires a couple revolutions and roll out. Put in 1st in manual mode spin the tires to 5000 rpms and shift into second and to 5000 again and let the brake off while dropping the rpms and you'll feel it hook and then let off and roll to the line. Don't chirp the tires to see if its hooking. Just pull to the line. If you look at my 60ft they are all within a few 100's because I do the same burnout procedure everytime

I may start trying that or something similar. Sometimes im not consistent.

I just have it in auto mode and it shifts up to 3rd gear burning out by the time it feels satisfactory to me. I been doing the burnout in the water and then roll out of it still to the floor smoking the tires. then let off and hit the brakes.

[Snowblind]

Once you make your first pass on your drag pack PRAY and look at your slip in the return lane....it will all be worth it !!!!

I lower my psi to 20 and check the pressure after each run so it stays consistent. I do my burnout in 2nd gear at 4k rpm and hold it until I see a nice white billow of smoke out the rear view mirror ( 5 sec sounds right).

I'm jello with envy that you can still make passes this late in the year. Something tells me I'll be chasing you on the fast list after you make some passes next month.

[laynlo15]

Me too, our strips are closed till March.

[PRAY]

Thanks for the advice guys. I try not to drive through the water box regardless of what front tires I am running. If I am on DR's or slicks I back up to the far side of the water and then forward through it to a dry spot just past the box. I do my burn out there. I don't like to turn the tires over in the box cause it can put water into your wheel well that will drip down onto the tires after the burn out. I usually do the burn out in D and let it shift to 3rd and roll out. I hold the throttle position till I feel the car grab. I will say that I have only run one Auto with DR's. Everything else has been Manuals. I think I am going to do the burn out in M now and shift to second and hold at 5K or so till I see smoke. On the street tires I just backed up to in front of the water box and hit it in D till it shifted to 2nd and rolled foreword. The colder it got the longer I had to hold it.

I usually set my tire pressure 1lb below target right when I get to the track and the tires are warm. I air the fronts up to around 45psi and the rears to 23psi (stock tires) I will shoot for 17psi on the MT's. I do my burn out and make a pass. I then double check the pressure as soon as the run is over. It keeps it pretty consistent.

The track here stays open till the weather is consistently under 40*. I have a good friend that is a record setting fool so he will rent and prep the track at the drop of a hat if the weather looks good. The track guys don't care how cold it is then. I have seen him race in 30* weather.

I may lead the list by the end of the year but that won't last long. I am pretty sure I got a factory turd or my trans and rear are holding me back. I have been working my butt off with tuning and technique and I am pretty "modded" compared to the rest of you and I am barely keeping up. It appears that we will all be very similarly modded come season open for you guys. Ported IM/TB, E85, RF, Tunes, Drag packs. Some small things will be different but basically the same. Since you guys started up I am sure you will end up. I am shooting for 11.3-4 on pump and 11.1-2 on E85. I think I will need headers to see 10's.

If any of you all are down for a drive, the track will be open.

[laynlo15]

You probably will be the first to get there with the track being open most of the year will help you achieve your goal and then we have to try to catch you.