1le shocks on 2010 ss?

[Cheap Guy]

^^^I’m not going with the front bar. From what I understand it’s only a marginal benefit. I am going with the rear bar but it’s my understanding that while I’ll need to replace the LCA, the end links should be ok, correct?

I was going to go with the B6 but the 1LE seemed like the best bang for the buck, especially since I got them lightly used.

[CamaroFred]

You can use fatter end links on the front to add a bit of stiffness. I used Proven Wicked.
You will need new end links on the rear, they will be much longer then the FE3.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Cheap Guy

^^^I’m not going with the front bar. From what I understand it’s only a marginal benefit. I am going with the rear bar but it’s my understanding that while I’ll need to replace the LCA, the end links should be ok, correct?

I was going to go with the B6 but the 1LE seemed like the best bang for the buck, especially since I got them lightly used.

If you keep your stock front bar use no bigger then the gm 1le rear bar which is 28 mm solid. I would recommend also changing your from bar to the 23mm solid bar from a 2013or later SS, and get the 12mm endlinks. Your 2011 stock front bar is a 23 mm bar but is hollow and less affective. You may get into a bit of a oversteer condition. You can try it and change later if you get to much oversteer

[Cheap Guy]

Thanks everyone. I just ordered the rear sway links and the LCAs. I'll try to address the front when I have more $$$. I've done shocks and struts before (on my 4th gens and other cars) so I'll go ahead and do this myself too to save a few bucks.

[LCPLPunk]

You can use a ZL1 rear bar too.

[ldeardorff]

I have a question about clearance. I have a 2011 SS and plan on putting eibach pro kit springs on. Along with the springs eventually I will go to zl1 sized wheels where the front is 20x10 and the rear is 20x11. Will I have clearance issues as far as turning?

[Cheap Guy]

Ok. Going to start my install this week. Anyone know the torque specs for the nut that hold the spring down? I’ve watched the videos but none mention the torque figure - they just seem to be tightening it down to a certain point.

[Cheap Guy]

Finally got the time to get to work on this. Today’s assignment was the front end. All I can say is that it’s one of the easiest things I’ve recently done on one of my cars. The only issue was the rusty sway bar links which I had to cut off on one side. You may want to order a set of links just in case. To make it easier, definitely get a 24mm deep socket and an impact wrench will definitely speed things up but isn’t necessary. My old Craftsman impact wrench decided to not work today after sitting for a year so I did cheat and took the strut to a local shop to get the top nut off the strut. I honestly think I could swap out a strut in less than 30 minutes now.

Started on the rear end this evening. I figured this was going to take a bit longer since I was swapping out the stock sway bar for the 1LE piece which requires replacing the LCA. Again, so far not bad at all. If you don’t have ratcheting wrenches I suggest you get a set because it’s easier to use them than sockets. The only hang up right now is I noticed index marks on the lower control arm bolts but I guess that’s for the alignment which I obviously have to do. If you want to save money if you do the sway bar swap it looks like you could easily drill the old LCA for the sway bar to fit but you’d obviously need a template.

Should be done by noon tomorrow. Not a hard project at all.

Finished up today except alignment. Again, if you don’t have to do the LCA, this is an easy job. Someone posted that I needed to do the toelink but I think I could have done without, especially since I didn’t know about the dirty little secret called the adjustment bolt on the passenger side. There’s not enough room to pull the bolt out easily. I did a search and some said I’d have to lower the entire cradle to get it out. I managed to bend the frame a bit and wiggle the link out but no way was it going back in that way so I put the bolt in from the rear. Hopefully it won’t make a difference.

Got it aligned today - no issues. Total cost for install was approx $250 including alignment and some tools I didn’t have. $140 was for taking it to have the mounts done by a shop.

[LCPLPunk]

You'll love it!!!

[olblue75]

I'm running a JPS 32mm rear bar an 1LE bar with 1LE shocks and struts and the car turns pretty flat an the ride at that harsh, it's no caddy but I didn't buy it for a that. I have a DSE 35mm hollow rear that I'm gonna try to see if it works as well as the solid 32mm cause it's so heavy.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by olblue75

I'm running a JPS 32mm rear bar an 1LE bar with 1LE shocks and struts and the car turns pretty flat an the ride at that harsh, it's no caddy but I didn't buy it for a that. I have a DSE 35mm hollow rear that I'm gonna try to see if it works as well as the solid 32mm cause it's so heavy.

I had same as you on rear bars. Wanted softer range to adjust to when needed. Changed to dse front and rear. The dse rear bar is 9 lbs lighter then the Pedders bar. I wish there were accurate stiffness


figures to compare the two, but all you can do is get close with what there is online. I do autocross and at autoclub speedway in Cali the parking lot surface sucks, not a lot of traction. All of us running the dse bars set them soft for grip( we all have coilovers with 300/550 rates). The mid setting works as well but coilover settings have to be softer. The stiff bar setting is way to stiff and slides out with no off corner grip. That setting seems to be close to Pedders 32 solid. Or maybe more? Hard to say

[Cheap Guy]

^^^you folks talking about the rear bar - I was kind of shocked at how much heftier the 1LE bar was over the stock SS bar. I got it aligned today and I can definitely feel it being more neutral in handling.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Cheap Guy

^^^you folks talking about the rear bar - I was kind of shocked at how much heftier the 1LE bar was over the stock SS bar. I got it aligned today and I can definitely feel it being more neutral in handling.

👍

[Cheap Guy]

Damn! Everything was going great until I hit a bad bump and I got the dreaded suspension knock. Did a search on it and found out these cars have a “floating” front suspension where the front struts aren’t actually mounted rigidly to the body. I’ve learned my lesson over the years about not using stock parts but no one had the OEM front sway bar links so I used the store brand which I believe is the culprit.