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Old 12-05-2018, 05:37 PM   #29
headgamez
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWR View Post
Anyone know of anything like this for the 1LE? It seems that no one has came up with a non-splicing method for installing amps/subs for this car (as we dont have a factory amp)
I have this.....



PAC Audio Speaker Connection Harness - APHGM02
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:46 PM   #30
oOKhanhOo
 
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bump. Does this work with 1SS 1LE? because the 1SS 1LE does not have a factory amp, not even a non-bose amp
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:30 PM   #31
headgamez
 
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Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo View Post
bump. Does this work with 1SS 1LE? because the 1SS 1LE does not have a factory amp, not even a non-bose amp
Not 100 percent sure...Maybe someone else can chime in??
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:58 PM   #32
oOKhanhOo
 
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Originally Posted by headgamez View Post
Not 100 percent sure...Maybe someone else can chime in??
A member, “lfree11012”, confirmed to me that it does work with the 1SS 1LE.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:27 PM   #33
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:53 PM   #34
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THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for this video!



What a bitch this job is!!!
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:32 PM   #35
WhyUMad1LE

 
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So we now have three plug and play options w/o amplified chimes for the 2016-2018:
Anyone want to analyze the pros and cons? I was going to go with an LC7i but I might go for one of the last two options if it's worth it.
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:32 AM   #36
SilverCamaroVert
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyUMad1LE View Post
So we now have three plug and play options w/o amplified chimes for the 2016-2018:
Anyone want to analyze the pros and cons? I was going to go with an LC7i but I might go for one of the last two options if it's worth it.
Is that the Axxess setup for non-bose? I was thinking this was for cars with Bose: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-DSP-MOST1

In my thinking, the Pac is a better price point with the optical, bass knob and harness included but requires a PC to program. The Axxess can be programmed with your phone in a parking lot if needed. That's pretty handy.
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Old 01-02-2019, 01:52 PM   #37
JaxChris

 
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Originally Posted by SilverCamaroVert View Post
Is that the Axxess setup for non-bose? I was thinking this was for cars with Bose: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-DSP-MOST1

In my thinking, the Pac is a better price point with the optical, bass knob and harness included but requires a PC to program. The Axxess can be programmed with your phone in a parking lot if needed. That's pretty handy.
Correct. The subject is about Camaro's with the Bose amp on the MOST bus. You will need the Axxess AX-DSP-MOST1 bundle. That is 400-450$ depending on retailing right now and comes with the harnesses.

Also, the PAC module does not include the GM02 harness which is in addition to the purchase of the interface.
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:50 PM   #38
SilverCamaroVert
 
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Thanks for confirming. I'm working to design my system replacement and wanted to be sure.

Another thing I have noticed when comparing the Axxess to the PAC is the Axxess has separate 31 band eq's for front, rear and subwoofer as well as individual delay adjustment for all 4 speakers and a sub.

If the Axxess DSP's DSP is adequate for one's needs, I think it's a better module (on paper. I don't own either yet). If one is going to use a better DSP, the PAC is probably every bit as good or better because it includes the optical.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:31 AM   #39
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If you plan to run an external, high feature DSP, then the PAC module wins when you plan to make use of the optical interface.

If you plan to skip the external DSP, then the Axxess has more built-in adjustment. The PAC only has 3-band EQ, versus the Axxess 31-band. This means you'll be able to better set bandpass where needed. The PAC module does automatically sum and adjust to a flat output, where the Axxess does not auto-eq a flat signal to remove the radios built-in rolloffs.

The biggest argument for running an external DSP with either of these units is that it doesn't provide enough pre-amps to run an active front stage. This means you'lll be limited to components with passive crossovers sharing the same RCA. I really wish Maestro AR made a MOST module. Then Rockford could sell a version like they do with the DSR1 for CANBUS cars. Rockford takes the 99$ Maestro AR and adds their 3.SIXTY DSP to make it a 250$ integration module with 8 RCA outputs -- but I wish they really provided 10 or more. The Maestro AR reserves the last 2 as sub, leaving 6 full range channels. If you dropped the center channel, and used 6.5" subwoofers for 2 of the 4 rear speakers, you could drive a fully active system from the module to one 8-channel amp (or two 4-channel amps if it mounts better in your tire well). With 10 channel output and proper selection, you could have 1 center, 8 side channels and 1 sub channel. The Rockford DSP is pretty well rated as well as a digital software driven solution.

But I digress. Since neither module has a plentiful set of outputs, and I wanted to spend extra to have ultimate control over my system, I would get the PAC module and a MiniDSP 8x12. It has 6 RCA inputs (perfect match), 1 SPDIF input (not needed with this solution) and 1 optical TOS.link input (excellent). With that I would use the PAC module for control chime, phonecalls and ANC blocking. I would use the MiniDSP for center channel creation, run full active for all 9 speakers, and set time alignment for proper staging to both the front seats (thank you center channel).

If you have played with the Bose system, it does an ok job and can hit lower frequencies than most factory systems can. The rub is that in the name of weight savings, GM used ANC for noise control and installed zero isolation or deadening material in the car. The Bose system with the right sub bass tracks playing (<70hz) causes the door panels to get very noisy. Instead of wasting the limited trunk space with subs I would do midbass woofers in the doors and subwoofers in the side rear pockets with fast rings to limit space behind those drivers. Then I would run a resonance test with some deep bass and mid bass tracks to identify where patches of matting are needed other than immediately around the speaker mounts. I'd also look at padding the clip locations on the rear panels, doors panels, and mat most of the rear deck -- along with some better felt tape along the seems where the rear deck cover likes to rub and rattle most.

Give the subs 100 watts, woofers 75 watts, drivers 50 watts and tweeters 35 watts (I don't like a lot of tweeter at my age) in a combination of mini class-D amps sharing a d-block for power and ground with the DSP and integration module on a single board that can tie down in the tire well.

When you're full active, you don't use any filters on your amps, because you are doing highpass, lowpass and bandpass from the DSP. This means the amp works less only amplifying the signal you want on each channel and you don't need higher end amps with any extra features. This allows for very compact, low draw amps to just spit out watts.

Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaxChris View Post
If you plan to run an external, high feature DSP, then the PAC module wins when you plan to make use of the optical interface.

If you plan to skip the external DSP, then the Axxess has more built-in adjustment. The PAC only has 3-band EQ, versus the Axxess 31-band. This means you'll be able to better set bandpass where needed. The PAC module does automatically sum and adjust to a flat output, where the Axxess does not auto-eq a flat signal to remove the radios built-in rolloffs.

The biggest argument for running an external DSP with either of these units is that it doesn't provide enough pre-amps to run an active front stage. This means you'lll be limited to components with passive crossovers sharing the same RCA. I really wish Maestro AR made a MOST module. Then Rockford could sell a version like they do with the DSR1 for CANBUS cars. Rockford takes the 99$ Maestro AR and adds their 3.SIXTY DSP to make it a 250$ integration module with 8 RCA outputs -- but I wish they really provided 10 or more. The Maestro AR reserves the last 2 as sub, leaving 6 full range channels. If you dropped the center channel, and used 6.5" subwoofers for 2 of the 4 rear speakers, you could drive a fully active system from the module to one 8-channel amp (or two 4-channel amps if it mounts better in your tire well). With 10 channel output and proper selection, you could have 1 center, 8 side channels and 1 sub channel. The Rockford DSP is pretty well rated as well as a digital software driven solution.

But I digress. Since neither module has a plentiful set of outputs, and I wanted to spend extra to have ultimate control over my system, I would get the PAC module and a MiniDSP 8x12. It has 6 RCA inputs (perfect match), 1 SPDIF input (not needed with this solution) and 1 optical TOS.link input (excellent). With that I would use the PAC module for control chime, phonecalls and ANC blocking. I would use the MiniDSP for center channel creation, run full active for all 9 speakers, and set time alignment for proper staging to both the front seats (thank you center channel).

If you have played with the Bose system, it does an ok job and can hit lower frequencies than most factory systems can. The rub is that in the name of weight savings, GM used ANC for noise control and installed zero isolation or deadening material in the car. The Bose system with the right sub bass tracks playing (<70hz) causes the door panels to get very noisy. Instead of wasting the limited trunk space with subs I would do midbass woofers in the doors and subwoofers in the side rear pockets with fast rings to limit space behind those drivers. Then I would run a resonance test with some deep bass and mid bass tracks to identify where patches of matting are needed other than immediately around the speaker mounts. I'd also look at padding the clip locations on the rear panels, doors panels, and mat most of the rear deck -- along with some better felt tape along the seems where the rear deck cover likes to rub and rattle most.

Give the subs 100 watts, woofers 75 watts, drivers 50 watts and tweeters 35 watts (I don't like a lot of tweeter at my age) in a combination of mini class-D amps sharing a d-block for power and ground with the DSP and integration module on a single board that can tie down in the tire well.

When you're full active, you don't use any filters on your amps, because you are doing highpass, lowpass and bandpass from the DSP. This means the amp works less only amplifying the signal you want on each channel and you don't need higher end amps with any extra features. This allows for very compact, low draw amps to just spit out watts.

Good luck.
Chris, are you in Jacksonville? I was born and raised there. What audio shop do you own/work at?
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:31 PM   #41
JaxChris

 
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Chris, are you in Jacksonville? I was born and raised there. What audio shop do you own/work at?
Jacksonville is the place I lived in the longest and where I was when I made my first online name over 20 years ago. Never worked in the business, just been a customer of the industry for as long as I've been online. =)
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:41 AM   #42
oOKhanhOo
 
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Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo View Post
bump. Does this work with 1SS 1LE? because the 1SS 1LE does not have a factory amp, not even a non-bose amp
I can confirm that the PAC AP4-GM61 WORKS with the 1SS 1LE. It also gives out center/sub channel signal despite not having neither of those from factory.
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