[NG329]

I'm on the fence about installing a BTR Stage 1 Cam with 38% fuel lobe.

Ideally I'm looking to run it in my stock car with a blend of E40 to get 650hp at the wheels. I may also port the supercharger over the winter.

Regarding the tune with HP Tuners, after you install a Stage 1 mild cam, What do I need to do in the tune? Disable DOD/AFM? Is the rest just plug and play? Do I need to tweak the volumetric efficiency or redo the MAF tables? Do I need to raise idle for a stage 1 cam? Can I leave the timing tables alone?

Can some of you guys chime in? I'll probably do the install with a mechanic friend but want to add some baseline settings so the car will survive the trip to the dyno session.

[KingLT1]

VVE, VTT, Spark, MAF, HPFP, Cam timing, Torque management...etc

literally a ton of stuff needs changed for a cam.

That being said you don't need a cam for 650whp.

Ported Supercharger w/ stock pulley, CAI, Headers, JMS, E50 will get you there and be much easier to tune.

Then when you want more, Port Injection and pulley down. Full E, 750+whp and still easier to tune then a cam.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

VVE, VTT, Spark, MAF, HPFP, Cam timing, Torque management...etc

literally a ton of stuff needs changed for a cam.

That being said you don't need a cam for 650whp.

Ported Supercharger w/ stock pulley, CAI, Headers, JMS, E50 will get you there and be much easier to tune.

Then when you want more, Port Injection and pulley down. Full E, 750+whp and still easier to tune then a cam.

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Those parameters were exactly the information that I needed. Yes, you're absolutely right about not needing a cam to get to the 650 mark. My last ZLE had the setup that you mentioned but it became an issue when:

- I needed to transport 5 jugs of E85 and my spare set of wheels with slicks mounted.
- I would run out of E85 at the track halfway through the day and there was none available in the town/State that I was visiting.
- For some odd reason, my injectors didn't seem to like it.

So, I guess my rationale in going with a cam was just to have that consistent performance and not be so dependent on carrying the jugs of E85 along with everything else.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by NG329

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Those parameters were exactly the information that I needed. Yes, you're absolutely right about not needing a cam to get to the 650 mark. My last ZLE had the setup that you mentioned but it became an issue when:

- I needed to transport 5 jugs of E85 and my spare set of wheels with slicks mounted.
- I would run out of E85 at the track halfway through the day and there was none available in the town/State that I was visiting.
- For some odd reason, my injectors didn't seem to like it.

So, I guess my rationale in going with a cam was just to have that consistent performance and not be so dependent on carrying the jugs of E85 along with everything else.

I gotcha...you can still make you power goals without a cam on pump. X port and the mods I listed should do it.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I gotcha...you can still make you power goals without a cam on pump. X port and the mods I listed should do it.

Noted. Thanks.

The X port sounds nice. I vaguely recall someone saying that the regular porting would be the better option vs the X port unless you were going for big power. Would you still recommend the X-port on a stock-ish car?

[6spdhyperblue]

I think I’ve seen that debunked. Go for the xport

[NG329]

Thank you both!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by NG329

I'm on the fence about installing a BTR Stage 1 Cam with 38% fuel lobe.

Ideally I'm looking to run it in my stock car with a blend of E40 to get 650hp at the wheels. I may also port the supercharger over the winter.

Regarding the tune with HP Tuners, after you install a Stage 1 mild cam, What do I need to do in the tune? Disable DOD/AFM? Is the rest just plug and play? Do I need to tweak the volumetric efficiency or redo the MAF tables? Do I need to raise idle for a stage 1 cam? Can I leave the timing tables alone?

Can some of you guys chime in? I'll probably do the install with a mechanic friend but want to add some baseline settings so the car will survive the trip to the dyno session.

Just as a guide, our JRE 125 RWHP flex fuel road race package make 670 RWHP on E60 stock pulleys and supercharger.

Rotofab, 95mm TB, flex fuel sensor, LT headers, High flow cats, JMS fuel system voltage booster, plugs and wires, along with JRE custom tuning.

That is about the Limit on the stock High pressure fuel system parts and stock cam fuel lobe.

The advantage of the Cam is getting the 32% fuel lobe which adds another 100 RWHP of fueling on Gasoline as far s the HPFP is concerned then you run in to the limit of the injectors.

I have a smooth Idle version of our cam that is very easy to tune since it keeps strong vacuum the VVE needs very little tuning comparatively to lopey cams.

Its our Sleeper cam.

Ted.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by NG329

Noted. Thanks.

The X port sounds nice. I vaguely recall someone saying that the regular porting would be the better option vs the X port unless you were going for big power. Would you still recommend the X-port on a stock-ish car?

This thing with the X port is that you will trade some bottom end for more power up top. You will basically see +3psi more boost at peak and less on the hit. The nice thing about that is it's easier on the tires and I would think it should help on the road course. So you gain power on the top without increasing heat. It also allows the fuel system to go further since the massive torque spike is reduced which often tends to bleed the fuel rails and then the fuel system plays to catch up. I honestly think if anybody sticks with the stock blower porting is mandatory before doing pulleys.

I have tuned a few X port bolt-on cars and they ran mid 6 second 60-130 on E50. Full weight street cars on stock wheels. My guess is low 6 with drag pack and some minor WR. I was impressed with how they ran. Power is consistently there after back to back pulls.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by NG329

Noted. Thanks.

The X port sounds nice. I vaguely recall someone saying that the regular porting would be the better option vs the X port unless you were going for big power. Would you still recommend the X-port on a stock-ish car?

The X port often loses some torque below 3000rpm, but after that the X port outperforms everywhere. Adding a pulley will negate the sub 3000 RPM torque drop. AT WOT you are always in the 5000+ RPM range where the X port makes considerably more power so the car will be faster for sure.