[RobbyBeefcake87]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Ok thanks, I've updated original post with correct part #. Where did you get that schematic from? Way more clear than what I was able to find.

Did this fix your issue? I'm dealing with a similar issue and can feel the diff bump when the car is in the air and I rotate the wheels forwards and backwards. I tightened up the bolt but it didn't seem to totally eliminate the issue just alleviated it. I'm thinking of getting a new bolt since the old one might be stretched out or getting the bushing as well.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by RobbyBeefcake87

Did this fix your issue? I'm dealing with a similar issue and can feel the diff bump when the car is in the air and I rotate the wheels forwards and backwards. I tightened up the bolt but it didn't seem to totally eliminate the issue just alleviated it. I'm thinking of getting a new bolt since the old one might be stretched out or getting the bushing as well.

Yes, as soon as I tightened up the bolt the issue went away completely. If you're still having issues after tightening the bolt I would start looking elsewhere. Try the lower 2 bolts that hold the front of the diff, maybe start looking at suspension component bolts or any other bushings/bearing that could be worn.

I don't think the issue you're describing is related to this bolt.

[RobbyBeefcake87]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Yes, as soon as I tightened up the bolt the issue went away completely. If you're still having issues after tightening the bolt I would start looking elsewhere. Try the lower 2 bolts that hold the front of the diff, maybe start looking at suspension component bolts or any other bushings/bearing that could be worn.

I don't think the issue you're describing is related to this bolt.

Yea you might be right. I did sound like yours and felt like what you described. Perhaps I described it incorrectly. Tightening the bolt also did help it some, I feel like it loosed up again. I even tightened up the front two bushing bolts as well. I'll check my end link bolts since that seems to be a thing as well. It's not loud at all when I spin it by hand, only when driving.

Oddly enough this did become noticable, outside of the typical driveline noises, after checking torque and tightening the axle nuts and halfshaft bolts. I can't imagine tightening up things to torque specs would have damage anything in the diff lash. Hard to tell but lash feels fine and tight not like it's an internal diff issue.

I'm just rambling here man incase someone has some further input, I appreciate your input. I'm also driving around with no back seats which amplifies all rear end noises so hopefully it's not just me being paranoid lol.

[WhiteMale]

When I examined my car these bolts and (everything else that is paint marked) is still intact, no movement indicated.

Ive got a clunky little noise that seems to be tied to the BMR sway bar body mounts, I can swap those and so forth and mitigate it a little bit and get it to an acceptable increase in NVH but I've never been able to pin it. I did the BMR bar, cradle lock out, and front cradle braces all together. Performance is exceptional but it's an annoyance as it stands now with this little clunky noise.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by RobbyBeefcake87

Yea you might be right. I did sound like yours and felt like what you described. Perhaps I described it incorrectly. Tightening the bolt also did help it some, I feel like it loosed up again. I even tightened up the front two bushing bolts as well. I'll check my end link bolts since that seems to be a thing as well. It's not loud at all when I spin it by hand, only when driving.

Oddly enough this did become noticable, outside of the typical driveline noises, after checking torque and tightening the axle nuts and halfshaft bolts. I can't imagine tightening up things to torque specs would have damage anything in the diff lash. Hard to tell but lash feels fine and tight not like it's an internal diff issue.

I'm just rambling here man incase someone has some further input, I appreciate your input. I'm also driving around with no back seats which amplifies all rear end noises so hopefully it's not just me being paranoid lol.

Yeah with the rear seats out all the noises are amplified. For me it wasn't just a noise, I could also feel the diff hitting a bump stop. I actually haven't even replaced the bolt yet, I have a new one but just tightening up the old one fixed my issues. I do have an aluminum diff lockout kit but I haven't installed them yet. I am upgrading 1 thing at a time to see what kind of difference they make. I'm doing the rear sway bar for next track day. I probably won't do the diff lockout till after that.

If your noise is coming from the diff moving around it would have to be related to those bushings being worn, that's what I originally thought the source of my noise was.

[RobbyBeefcake87]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Yeah with the rear seats out all the noises are amplified. For me it wasn't just a noise, I could also feel the diff hitting a bump stop. I actually haven't even replaced the bolt yet, I have a new one but just tightening up the old one fixed my issues. I do have an aluminum diff lockout kit but I haven't installed them yet. I am upgrading 1 thing at a time to see what kind of difference they make. I'm doing the rear sway bar for next track day. I probably won't do the diff lockout till after that.

If your noise is coming from the diff moving around it would have to be related to those bushings being worn, that's what I originally thought the source of my noise was.

Yea it might be the bushings which is more of a pain in the butt to change than just a bolt. If it ends up being that I'll have to decide between the lockout kit vs solid aluminum bushings. Be sure to post when you do the lockout job.

[cdrptrks]

I installed the BMR BK063 lockout kit with a floor jack and jackstands without removing the rear subframe and it wasn't super difficult but it also wasn't quick. I also bought and used 4 new bolts because the service manual says they are one time use. I think you would have to use fire to remove the old bushings (but I could be wrong) and install the aluminum replacements which would be sketchy to do without removing the rear subframe from the car IMO. With removing the rear subframe I think you're looking at a lot more labor compared to the lockout kit.

Install notes: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...5#post11141865

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

repairlinkshop.com

Thanks for that site to look up part numbers and for the best part diagrams.
Really nice to find the parts and add them to a cart, then buy from your choice of vendor.

For repair manual procedures I like repairprocedures.com
You have to pay a minimum of $15 for 24hr access

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Thanks for that site to look up part numbers and for the best part diagrams.
Really nice to find the parts and add them to a cart, then buy from your choice of vendor.

For repair manual procedures I like repairprocedures.com
You have to pay a minimum of $15 for 24hr access

You're welcome. Thank You for the repair manual site. I've also used acdelcotds.com. 3 day access for $22 but it's only GM vehicles.