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Old 09-14-2020, 12:56 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Compression testers are only good for finding a major problem or totally dead cylinder.

What you need is a leak down tester where you can actually measure ring seal and valve sealing.

Ted.
Exactly.

Air leaking out tailpipe, out the intake, air out oil fill cap, or bubbles in the coolant will point you to what needs attention.
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Old 09-14-2020, 02:51 PM   #268
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Thanks, gents.

Certainly won't disagree with the ideal tool...and it's obvious the leak is the crankcase. :-)

Is it expected for a LT1 with a supercharger might be the question (ie insufficent PCV).

No worries - will start with the easy tasks, will be interesting at the cranking compression data for future comparisons, at least.

Pursuing a leak down in the land of BMW expertise becomes a more challenging task...

Nonetheless, the car operates off boost just fine and the replacement parts are on order with about 3 weeks delivery.

My season is likely over - but hey, finished on a high note - car is faster than a stick ZL1!
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Old 09-14-2020, 05:12 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post

Is it expected for a LT1 with a supercharger might be the question (ie insufficent PCV).
There have been forum posts about boosted LT1's with stock internals pushing oil out the front or rear seals or both. From what i remember reading - the more the engine is subjected to long WOT pulls - the more likely the seals started leaking. Effectively evacuating the excessive crankcase pressure was emphasized as a solution.

Note: Some of these engines started with a seal leak and then later had a ringland failure on one or more pistons - often the failure was contributed to there being pretty tight ring gaps from the factory. I'm not predicting that for you - just putting it out there as information.

Good luck! I hope new seals and better PCV breathing is all you need.
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Old 09-15-2020, 03:26 PM   #270
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SSDan: The doomsday post! Appreciate the info - fully aware of the possibilities when adding 40% more power to the LT1. One might say the autobahn runs stress the engine the greatest - power vs drag (some friction too)...what a thrill though! It is why I bought it though...
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Old 09-15-2020, 03:42 PM   #271
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SSDan: The doomsday post!
Sorry! I'm not trying to jinx you! I'm sure you are like me and want to know whats out there in front of you as possibilities. You've got it handled and it's great to see someone really use all the performance they have created.

I look forward to your next video and or update as you enjoy the land of autobahns and the ring.
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Old 10-04-2020, 03:23 AM   #272
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Did a thorough clean up of the underside and added a Metco valve cover breather with checkvalve:



After some exercise on the autobahn, very minimal oil residue remained. Nonetheless, points toward the rear main seal still requires replacement.

Further discussion here:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=582425
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Old 10-25-2020, 04:23 AM   #273
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Little to report. No parts arrival after 5 weeks and frost began last week.

I did receive my transmission jack - not going to employ a shaky floor jack every again:



Shipping was as much as the jack...unable to locate a German model locally.

Nonetheless, continue to drive the car daily with the breather - notice no ills effects...and no leaks on the floor (few WOT opportunities).
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Old 10-31-2020, 04:35 PM   #274
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Parts finally arrived...6 weeks in the process. Guess I should have insisted on Priority Mail rather than Parcel Post...



We will see how life gets in the way to complicate the repair...
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Old 11-28-2020, 01:52 PM   #275
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Well, finally ready to undertake the fun on the cold concrete...



Two trips to the local hardware store (OBI)...a deep well 15 mm socket for the exhaust manifold and a T60 for the driveshaft. Tomorrow brings shifter/fluid lines...and hopefully the trans.
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:34 AM   #276
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Success...trans dropped and clutch/flywheel removed:



I didn't know the OEM clutch was a twin disc...should of expected it, but now I know why it works so well even with 655 HP!





And the flywheel:



The rear main seal is hardly oily...almost like it had a couple of 'events' and returned to normal. Nonetheless, will research if I can just pry out the seal and tap in a new one vice my original plan of replacing the entire RMS plate/seal. This requires disturbing the seal to the oil pan at the bottom (just RTV)...more work and more risk to more leaks IMO.
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Old 12-05-2020, 06:09 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
Success...trans dropped and clutch/flywheel removed:



I didn't know the OEM clutch was a twin disc...should of expected it, but now I know why it works so well even with 655 HP!





And the flywheel:



The rear main seal is hardly oily...almost like it had a couple of 'events' and returned to normal. Nonetheless, will research if I can just pry out the seal and tap in a new one vice my original plan of replacing the entire RMS plate/seal. This requires disturbing the seal to the oil pan at the bottom (just RTV)...more work and more risk to more leaks IMO.

And at one time the alignment of the plate and seal was critical. If I'm not mistaken there was a special tool to align the RMS plate prior to torquing it down. This was with early LS series, not sure if they changed the design.
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:46 PM   #278
Tim M
 
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I think GM 'improved' that aspect with the LT1...as the plate appears to have dowels to align. The oil pan gasket is gray RTV though...same for the RMS plate.

Not looking forward to scraping it off.
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Old 12-13-2020, 02:06 PM   #279
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Well, warmed the garage in preparation of removing and replacing the plate with RTV...aka - glue! Didn't budge with reasonable force...so I gave another try to just prying out the seal itself and replacing (I have three new ones!). Some finesse and out the original popped.



Far easier than messing with RTV as well as the oil pan juncture...

Had a piston ring compression ring that was nearly the same diameter...tapped it home:



Cleaned the flywheel bolts and applied new thread locker (likely the reason why new ones are recommended by GM). I did weigh the flywheel alone - 37 pounds. Not insiginificant!



Ran out of Brakekleen to move further. Bleeding the clutch is the only other 'first.' Still impressed at the OEM twin disc clutch...
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Old 12-21-2020, 03:29 PM   #280
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Made an effort this past weekend...bleeding was minimal issue. Bit of a challenge to access (don't drop the tiny 8 mm wrench into the bellhousing! I put a ziptie on it...) and you have to lower the cradle/engine/trans to do so, but the bleeder was on the top of the slave so that was a nice advancement over the ZF I used to work with. It also uses the brake master for a reservoir...glad I had a willing 15 year old helper who got to 'drive' the machine.

My bigger challenge was when I lowered the engine cradle so far that the pins were no longer 'registering' and become misaligned. Considering the weight you are dealing with (the entire engine/trans could drop out!). I was a bit cautious on how to get past lip to reset. Some prying and finagling the bolt tensions was all it took. I plan to buy new front cradle bolts considering how things were dangling...



Looks much better when it is back together and running...one start up and no leaks or smoking wires as of yet...



and hear it not roar (in Germany at night...don't wake the neighbors!)...video below:



Now to pull the blower off and send out for some porting and pulley change (less boost!)
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