LS3 tune up - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Black_SS10 · 02-26-2016, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham

remove the tb to clean it. the o ring is reusable. Dont know if brake clean will harm the tb sensor. I just use TB cleaner. you can clean the MAF too. You need MAF cleaner to do that. rear diff fluid

I love it after everything said its just....."rear diff fluid". so random...lol

OP as said, carb cleaner will not hurt anything...as long as it is not abused. It will dry out gaskets it is contact with. No worries about cleaning out your throttle body with it...spray and keep the throttle up, don't over spray nor let the engine die. The engine should be running/on..duh < a drunk DIY beware lol

two_wheel_mayhem · 02-26-2016, 01:14 AM

Carb cleaner is bad news, I know you all won't believe me. I always use the weaker stuff before resorting to it's use. It likes to eat the paint off of stuff, like Harley Engines. Anything that strong I don't want near my machined aluminum parts.

I really can't tell much difference between brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner, besides price.

JCunningham · 02-26-2016, 01:17 AM

o sorry
1 qt of 75w90 with 3oz of anti slip additive . 18ftlbs on the fill and drain plugs. he asked what he should do not how to do it or what to use. The owners manual says what fluids to use. The 2010 manual I believe calls for 1oz of anti slip additive. GM updated it to 3oz. you will need a Hand fluid pump available at any auto parts store. is that good enough for you?
brake clean kills plastic. I never had a 90mm GM TB apart but if it can leak into the electrical of it it will destroy it.
Why leave it on and have someone revving the engine to keep it running when it so easy to take it off.

NC_SS · 02-26-2016, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregss1le

its the back side that is probably filthy, remove it and clean thoroughly and discount the battery for a little more 20 mins. The throttle will be more responsive and idle a hella lot better. I can tell when my TB on the Envoy is in need of a bath, just by the way it idles. (rough/throttle is sluggish)

I'll take a look at it next week

Rockhead · 02-26-2016, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skillet

Bingo!

Can I use dish soap to wash my hands or do I need to use hand soap?

You may void your warranty . Check with your Oldsmobile dealer.

marsmann · 02-26-2016, 11:26 AM

To OP

Since your question was about tips and general maintenance suggestions at your mileage interval, I would suggest:

1. Clean out the throttle body, as suggested
2. Inspect your belts
3. Check your spark plugs if you have mods, otherwise the iridiums should hold up
4. Check fuel injectors - have them cleaned or run a cleaner through them
5. If you dont have a catch can, inspect the plastic, pseudo pcv line that goes into the intake to be sure it isn't clogged up
6. Clean the MAF if you haven't already done so as part of regular maintenance
7. Change your oil!

8. Inspect your air filter
9. Transmission fluid is optional between 50k - 100k on your car depending on use. At least check it
10. Check your tire treads to make sure your tire wear is even and your car is tracking fine and your suspension isnt out of alignment

ManiRai530 · 03-30-2018, 05:48 PM

My usual every 100k tune up on for most of my cars:
This is a lot of long-term preventive maintenance.

-spark plugs (OEM, ACdelco iridiums were only $36 for 8)
-spark plug wires (cheap and time for MSD or Taylors)
-replace all belts (continental or gates for me)
-tensioners and idler pulley (OEM)
-thermostat (OEM)
-water pump (OEM)(except the one on LS motors seems robust, so will wait til 150k)
-clean throttle body and MAF sensor
-power steering oil change (turkey baster, run it through multiple times)
-brake fluid flush (Castrol DOT4 for me)
-time to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines if not already done
-battery (Everstart MAXX for me. my 2012 had the original in it for 6yrs/100k miles and no issues, I just replaced it yesterday for peace of mind; bad batteries leave you stranded with a dead alternator too, so $150 is cheaper than a tow and big bill if on a long road trip

TRANS
-oil/filter change (OEM or Redline for me)

DIFF
-change oil (Redline 75w-90 for me)
-change oil again after 1-2k (cheap insurance and you will be surprised how much gets cleaned out)

02-26-2016, 01:14 AM	#16
two_wheel_mayhem Would rather be riding Drives: No car no more Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 2,750	Carb cleaner is bad news, I know you all won't believe me. I always use the weaker stuff before resorting to it's use. It likes to eat the paint off of stuff, like Harley Engines. Anything that strong I don't want near my machined aluminum parts. I really can't tell much difference between brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner, besides price. __________________ No dog in this fight anymore. 5th Gen owner 2009-2016.

02-26-2016, 01:17 AM	#17
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	o sorry 1 qt of 75w90 with 3oz of anti slip additive . 18ftlbs on the fill and drain plugs. he asked what he should do not how to do it or what to use. The owners manual says what fluids to use. The 2010 manual I believe calls for 1oz of anti slip additive. GM updated it to 3oz. you will need a Hand fluid pump available at any auto parts store. is that good enough for you? brake clean kills plastic. I never had a 90mm GM TB apart but if it can leak into the electrical of it it will destroy it. Why leave it on and have someone revving the engine to keep it running when it so easy to take it off. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1 Last edited by JCunningham; 02-26-2016 at 01:33 AM.

02-26-2016, 11:26 AM	#20
marsmann Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Vert M6 Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: South East, PA Posts: 117	To OP Since your question was about tips and general maintenance suggestions at your mileage interval, I would suggest: 1. Clean out the throttle body, as suggested 2. Inspect your belts 3. Check your spark plugs if you have mods, otherwise the iridiums should hold up 4. Check fuel injectors - have them cleaned or run a cleaner through them 5. If you dont have a catch can, inspect the plastic, pseudo pcv line that goes into the intake to be sure it isn't clogged up 6. Clean the MAF if you haven't already done so as part of regular maintenance 7. Change your oil! 8. Inspect your air filter 9. Transmission fluid is optional between 50k - 100k on your car depending on use. At least check it 10. Check your tire treads to make sure your tire wear is even and your car is tracking fine and your suspension isnt out of alignment

03-30-2018, 05:48 PM	#21
ManiRai530 Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: NOR-CAL Posts: 1	My usual every 100k tune up on for most of my cars: This is a lot of long-term preventive maintenance. -spark plugs (OEM, ACdelco iridiums were only $36 for 8) -spark plug wires (cheap and time for MSD or Taylors) -replace all belts (continental or gates for me) -tensioners and idler pulley (OEM) -thermostat (OEM) -water pump (OEM)(except the one on LS motors seems robust, so will wait til 150k) -clean throttle body and MAF sensor -power steering oil change (turkey baster, run it through multiple times) -brake fluid flush (Castrol DOT4 for me) -time to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines if not already done -battery (Everstart MAXX for me. my 2012 had the original in it for 6yrs/100k miles and no issues, I just replaced it yesterday for peace of mind; bad batteries leave you stranded with a dead alternator too, so $150 is cheaper than a tow and big bill if on a long road trip TRANS -oil/filter change (OEM or Redline for me) DIFF -change oil (Redline 75w-90 for me) -change oil again after 1-2k (cheap insurance and you will be surprised how much gets cleaned out)