12-10-2016, 03:02 PM | #1 |
Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,316
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factory header removal
I'll get this started and add pictures and verbiage. I won't cover things like how to jack up your ride, disconnect the battery or have the spose provide you and the boys with beverage and food..
How hard: 1968 Big block Mustang is a 10 hard, a 1988 Fox Mustang is a 1 easy, a 1988 LS1 Camaro is 4: The 2016 SS is easier than a LS1, so it is a 3 on the hard scale. Tools, this is the MOST important part, don't try it without the right tools. 24 V 3/8 driver impact driver or air ratchet (slightly bigger than a mouse chet) 1/4 drive: flex head ratchet, a long handle 1/4 drive flex head about 1 foot Kobalt makes a nice one), 13mm deep socket, short extension. 3/8 drive: breaker bar, flex head ratchet, 3 extensions, really short like 3/4 of an inch, short, kinda short like 3", don't say oh I can do this without these cause you aint. 13mm deep drive, a 13mm kinda deep may also help. Assorted tools. Drivers side: Take off a few of the oil vapor lines easy and they get in the way and are easy to damage Pull off the CAI (It is easy and leaves lots of room, not needed but I did it). Pull plugs and wires, I had to twist the wire on the plug side A LOT before I could pull these off. I found using the correct 3/8 extension 3/4" which is really short one the most useful in pulling the out plugs. I had all three extensions at the ready and setup the right one by eyeball. Take off top header shield with 1/4 inch I think there were 10mm. Only the three easy to get to bolts are needed, if they look hard to get to, you don't need to take them off to get the top shield off. Header itself, break all bolts with 13mm and 3/8 flex head, once again it seemed the shortest extension is the most useful. If you have an air ratchet luck you and just ratchet them off starting with the hardest to get to ones, the back one... 1/4 drive is your friend here as you can get a lot longer throw, GM used a thread locker on it so it will be a long haul and you don't want to be fooling around with a 3/8 ratchet. Don't tell anyone I just used me long Kobalt 1/4 driver on the passenger side to both break and take them off. If this is done on a lift, It probably is better to crack the 4 collector bolts first. I'll just cut and paste the DYI of front cat removal here when I find it. 45 minutes. A lot longer if you don't have the couple extensions to do it right the first time. Take off all three engine covers: Passenger side: Take off the coolant overflow: Take off coil cover the top bracket to dipstick (all torx) Take off bracket holding coil pack wire harness (thick), same bracket holds PS lines. Cut the two zip ties that hold the wire harness to the PS pump, you will hate yourself if you want to save a couple of bucks and try to squeeze the ripple clips out. Take off the front t wo coil pack wires Take off the electric plug to the purge solenoid on top of the manifold Take off spark plug wires There is so much room I did not remove the plugs on this side! Take off header shield three easy to get to bolts Now the fun begins: move the wire harness and take the first front bolt off, I used my 1/4 inch long handle and a single deep socket, this is by the hardest to get to, and if you did not take the wire harness off good luck. Break all the rest of the bolts and take off starting with the back, the hardest one to get to and work forward. If you have a lift take off the 4 bolts to downpipe / front cat, I could reach one with a slightly longer short socket and a whobble extension, if you don't have one it will be tight and you need a 15mm wrench. Total time 35 minutes drivers side top 45 minutes passenger side top 35 minutes under the car for the front cats, use lots of lubricant and electric tools. Install is reverse and I had NO issues..
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
Last edited by oldman; 04-05-2017 at 04:34 PM. |
12-10-2016, 04:45 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 NPP Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Indiana
Posts: 891
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Thanks for the write up!! I will be doing this upgrade this winter with ARH 1 7/8 LT headers with HF cats.
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2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 with body color hood vents, Silver broken 5 spoke wheels, NPP dual exhaust, Dark Night Interior Spectrum Lighting, Illuminated door sills plates. Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges Order ID: TDHQMS 1100 on 01/07/2016 at Penske Chevrolet 6000 on 02/23/2016 Delivered to customer |
12-11-2016, 09:32 AM | #3 |
Drives: '17 Red hot 2ss, 16 Focus RS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 845
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Thank you! Much easier sounding Thank directions I've seen from header companies. This should be made a sticky!
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12-11-2016, 09:40 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Moon Township, PA
Posts: 474
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Pull off CAI? I didn't have to do this to get mine out.
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12-12-2016, 10:17 AM | #5 |
Drives: Garnet Red - 20 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,010
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Disconnect battery might be a good idea. Thanks for the write up, Im going to pay to have it done. My 1 car garage is not optimal for this kind of work.
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02-28-2017, 05:20 AM | #6 |
Drives: '17 Red hot 2ss, 16 Focus RS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 845
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Has anyone installed stainless works this way yet?
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02-28-2017, 03:29 PM | #7 |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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I did an install of Stainless Works complete system (headers and exhaust) on jack stands last week. I'm working on a write-up with lots of pictures and as much detail as I think will be helpful. Oldman, must be a seasoned pro because it took me damned near a week of working on it Saturday/Sunday and every night after work for a few hours to get it all complete. My write-up should help trim that to a couple days. Stainless Works instructions SUUUUUUUUUUUCK badly. Stay tuned...
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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02-28-2017, 04:02 PM | #8 | |
Drives: '17 Red hot 2ss, 16 Focus RS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 845
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Quote:
Last edited by Dubchitts; 02-28-2017 at 07:36 PM. |
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02-28-2017, 06:39 PM | #9 |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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The motor mount isn't that bad to get out but there is no way to get the Stainless Works headers in without removing the passenger side motor mount nor without removing the steering shaft. Trust me, I tried. They need to be removed.
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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02-28-2017, 07:38 PM | #10 |
Drives: '17 Red hot 2ss, 16 Focus RS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 845
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I guess if that's the only two pita parts that doesn't sound all that bad. Hopefully it's only a two day project tops. Lol
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12-28-2017, 09:22 PM | #11 |
Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: North Ga
Posts: 1,787
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I yanked my factory exhaust manifolds off this afternoon, it was far easier than anticipated. Thanks, Oldman for the writeup! I'm hoping the headers go on as easily as the stockers came off - wishful thinking, I am sure!
I'm installing kooks 1 7/8 headers and was wondering if I need to remove the starter, motor mount, or both. This seems to vary depending on the brand of header being installed. What all did you kooks guys have to remove?
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Baby Blue
2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned |
12-28-2017, 09:35 PM | #12 |
Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: North Ga
Posts: 1,787
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I took old man's advice and cut off all of the ripple clip wire ties. I seem to recall someone posting that they bought some of these off of Amazon. I searched but cannot find the damn things. Where is everyone getting these? I'm sure they are available somewhere for less $$$ than at the dealership.
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Baby Blue
2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned |
12-30-2017, 11:09 PM | #13 |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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I just used zip ties and didn't worry about the mounts. There are plenty of stiff wire bundles to zip tie to and keep wires away from the headers.
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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12-31-2017, 09:17 AM | #14 |
Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: North Ga
Posts: 1,787
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Agreed. I replaced the ripple clips with zip ties when installing my flex fuel sensor and headers. Hell I even had to wrestle with a couple of those clips when I replaced the lower grill in my front fascia. I was extremely pleased with the wire clearances with my headers. Even before I zip tied the wires, there were none anywhere near the headers on either side.
My main point is that nearly any mod forces you to deal with several of the factory ripple clips. While zip ties work fine, if the factory clips were available, I would have used them.
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Baby Blue
2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned |
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