[Oshyn]

Can't seem to find any info on these types of connectors anywhere on Camaro6 or the internet. Its a 2 wire/2 pin connector if anyone has any idea where I can find these connectors, that would be much appreciated. Trying to make a DIY Line Output Converter harness to avoid splicing/tapping into the speaker wires.

Thanks!

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by Oshyn

Can't seem to find any info on these types of connectors anywhere on Camaro6 or the internet. Its a 2 wire/2 pin connector if anyone has any idea where I can find these connectors, that would be much appreciated. Trying to make a DIY Line Output Converter harness to avoid splicing/tapping into the speaker wires.

Thanks!

Don't snag the signal from the rear speakers, it's greatly attenuated and you'll have too much gain (i.e. noise) on the LOC or amp to compensate. Snag the signal from the front. It's not like the rear quarter panels are easy to remove anyway.

You can get a GM speaker wire adapter pretty easily if you're just going to disconnect the speakers, but since I don't recommend doing that anyway since the rear signal is garbage and you want to keep the front signal: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_003SH3...s.html?tp=3097

Easiest way to do this is to de-pin and re-pin the factory harness at either the factory amp or where it splits for front dash and front door. This way you can add a second wire pair (for each side) to an existing harness that you can then route to the LOC. You'll also want the proper crimp tool since the pins use a 2-stage crimp (conductor separate from insulation).

Pins have specific dimensions and you'll want to first get a pinning kit (like $10 on Amazon) then you can remove the pins, measure, and order what you need.

If I want to build harnesses and plugs, it's a real tedious process since that process isn't well documented. I've done it before but it took hours of research.

You may have luck with a few day subscription to ACDelcoTDS in determining what pins are used.

I'll be digging into this myself soon enough, but I may wait until spring. I will route the front signal to a DSP then run a front 3-way active. I may remove the windshield to both remove the headliner and have access to the dash corners to mod for the mid/tweet combo.

[Oshyn]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Don't snag the signal from the rear speakers, it's greatly attenuated and you'll have too much gain (i.e. noise) on the LOC or amp to compensate. Snag the signal from the front. It's not like the rear quarter panels are easy to remove anyway.

You can get a GM speaker wire adapter pretty easily if you're just going to disconnect the speakers, but since I don't recommend doing that anyway since the rear signal is garbage and you want to keep the front signal: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_003SH3...s.html?tp=3097

Easiest way to do this is to de-pin and re-pin the factory harness at either the factory amp or where it splits for front dash and front door. This way you can add a second wire pair (for each side) to an existing harness that you can then route to the LOC. You'll also want the proper crimp tool since the pins use a 2-stage crimp (conductor separate from insulation).

Pins have specific dimensions and you'll want to first get a pinning kit (like $10 on Amazon) then you can remove the pins, measure, and order what you need.

If I want to build harnesses and plugs, it's a real tedious process since that process isn't well documented. I've done it before but it took hours of research.

You may have luck with a few day subscription to ACDelcoTDS in determining what pins are used.

I'll be digging into this myself soon enough, but I may wait until spring. I will route the front signal to a DSP then run a front 3-way active. I may remove the windshield to both remove the headliner and have access to the dash corners to mod for the mid/tweet combo.

So I did some research and since the 1SS 1LE's dont have a stock amplifier at all and all the signal comes from the head unit, it looks like GEN5DIY has made a breakout harness kit for aftermarket amps that have a SP level input. This "T" harness is specifically made for the new 2019+ refresh models and plugs directly into the stock head unit where you can splice splice wires into. here is a link to the product for more info.

https://wildhammermotorsports.com/19...rness-gen5diy/

might go this route if my assumptions of this product are correct. I will be contacting GEN5DIY to get more info.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Oshyn

So I did some research and since the 1SS 1LE's dont have a stock amplifier at all and all the signal comes from the head unit, it looks like GEN5DIY has made a breakout harness kit for aftermarket amps that have a SP level input. This "T" harness is specifically made for the new 2019+ refresh models and plugs directly into the stock head unit where you can splice splice wires into. here is a link to the product for more info.

https://wildhammermotorsports.com/19...rness-gen5diy/

might go this route if my assumptions of this product are correct. I will be contacting GEN5DIY to get more info.

Yep, this is the easy and no-cutting way to do this for sure. I asked Gen5DIY to make one for our cars when I installed my amp. Mine was cheaper, though, because I had no plans to use either the rear-speaker signal or send the amp's signal to my rear speakers (doing that means you only need one connector on each end of the harness). I see no point in using the rear-side speakers and therefore I just fade the system to all front sound. I don't see that harness on the Gen5DIY site now, though, so maybe they weren't selling well? keep-hope-alive is correct about using only the front signal for you amp inputs. Also, you won't need it if you use that breakout harness, but the colors and connector pins are shown on the diagrams I posted in my writeup that I linked above.

[Oshyn]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Yep, this is the easy and no-cutting way to do this for sure. I asked Gen5DIY to make one for our cars when I installed my amp. Mine was cheaper, though, because I had no plans to use either the rear-speaker signal or send the amp's signal to my rear speakers (doing that means you only need one connector on each end of the harness). I see no point in using the rear-side speakers and therefore I just fade the system to all front sound. I don't see that harness on the Gen5DIY site now, though, so maybe they weren't selling well? keep-hope-alive is correct about using only the front signal for you amp inputs. Also, you won't need it if you use that breakout harness, but the colors and connector pins are shown on the diagrams I posted in my writeup that I linked above.

awesome man! and well I just ordered it earlier today from the Gen5DIY website, cost me $98 which is well worth it to keep the car's harness intact.. It will probably be a couple days until they even process the order cuz of the holidays. but im stoked!

[Chutzpah]

So while we’re on the subject…and as I’ve mentioned in a couple of previous posts, I deleted the rear panel speakers and added some decent rear deck speakers and an amp. While the overall system sound quality is much better, we’re all on the same page as far as to the rear signal being garbage (lessen learned by me).

I recently purchased an inexpensive, but better component set than (hopefully) the OEM fronts. At this time, I don’t plan on installing an amp for those. However, I’m considering buying the Gen 5 harness and paralleling the front signals for the rears. The problem with this is volume control for the rears. Can I use a simple / rheostat knob with RCA’s snipped off /wire through to the inputs of the rear amp for the rear speakers? I know this NOT the best solution. I’ve already spent a couple bucks and effort on the rears, so it would be nice to liven them up a bit… if reasonable / possible. Any help would be appreciated.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

So while we’re on the subject…and as I’ve mentioned in a couple of previous posts, I deleted the rear panel speakers and added some decent rear deck speakers and an amp. While the overall system sound quality is much better, we’re all on the same page as far as to the rear signal being garbage (lessen learned by me).

I recently purchased an inexpensive, but better component set than (hopefully) the OEM fronts. At this time, I don’t plan on installing an amp for those. However, I’m considering buying the Gen 5 harness and paralleling the front signals for the rears. The problem with this is volume control for the rears. Can I use a simple / rheostat knob with RCA’s snipped off /wire through to the inputs of the rear amp for the rear speakers? I know this NOT the best solution. I’ve already spent a couple bucks and effort on the rears, so it would be nice to liven them up a bit… if reasonable / possible. Any help would be appreciated.

Can't you just adjust the amp's gain to match the volume to the fronts?

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Can't you just adjust the amp's gain to match the volume to the fronts?

That may be possible, but I’m thinking I may want some flexibility to increase or reduce the rears volume independent of the amp (chimes?). The gain is basically at, or very near zero now.

The other question I forgot to ask…is if I’d need to be concerned with tapping the fronts signal and leaving the rear signal “dead ended”. Should a 4 ohm resister be installed on the rears signals (just to protect circuitry).

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

That may be possible, but I’m thinking I may want some flexibility to increase or reduce the rears volume independent of the amp (chimes?). The gain is basically at, or very near zero now.

The other question I forgot to ask…is if I’d need to be concerned with tapping the fronts signal and leaving the rear signal “dead ended”. Should a 4 ohm resister be installed on the rears signals (just to protect circuitry).

I don't see why you couldn't add a volume potentiometer of some sort in line with the rears, and I see no problem with leaving the rear speaker circuit open ("dead ended").

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

That may be possible, but I’m thinking I may want some flexibility to increase or reduce the rears volume independent of the amp (chimes?). The gain is basically at, or very near zero now.

The other question I forgot to ask…is if I’d need to be concerned with tapping the fronts signal and leaving the rear signal “dead ended”. Should a 4 ohm resister be installed on the rears signals (just to protect circuitry).

Totally fine to leave the rears open. An open circuit is just no connection, the amp won't care and won't generate heat because of it.

You can increase gain to compensate for the rear signal weakness but then you get a lot of noise. Just avoid the rear signals in most circumstances.

In some systems, in the past, I would use rear for the sub and front for the speakers so the user could let the fader act like a sub level control. But with amps having their own knobs these days, it's no longer a useful trick.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I don't see why you couldn't add a volume potentiometer of some sort in line with the rears, and I see no problem with leaving the rear speaker circuit open ("dead ended").

Thanks Matt, I actually did a bit of research last night and you’re right. I can safely leave the rears open. I’ll try adjusting the gain before adding potentially unneeded equipment.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Totally fine to leave the rears open. An open circuit is just no connection, the amp won't care and won't generate heat because of it.

You can increase gain to compensate for the rear signal weakness but then you get a lot of noise. Just avoid the rear signals in most circumstances.

In some systems, in the past, I would use rear for the sub and front for the speakers so the user could let the fader act like a sub level control. But with amps having their own knobs these days, it's no longer a useful trick.

Thank you Mr. Keep Hope Alive. Yep, got it on leaving the signals open. Appreciate your help. I’ll see what the gain control does for me when I tap the fronts.