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Old 08-04-2020, 08:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
good deal here:
+1. Been running this for over 2 years now.
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Old 08-04-2020, 08:31 PM   #16
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Does no one sell this in 5qt containers? Using 10+ bottles for a single change seems wasteful.
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Old 08-04-2020, 08:59 PM   #17
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https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mobil...it,386340.html

Usually if you sign up for their email list you also get a $10 off coupon.
Got mine from Speedway, but the filter concerns me, The box was mostly white and not a normal AC Delco box. The filter looked legit, but the box makes me somewhat uneasy.
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Old 08-04-2020, 10:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Boost Creep View Post
It's still a 0w oil with an additive package to make it act like a 40 weight when hot. I'd rather start with a more substantial base.
In the case of Mobil 1, I don't believe that's really true. If talking about a natural "dino" oil, it is true. I believe it is also essentially true for Group III "severely hydrocracked" oils that call themselves "synthetics," even though they really aren't. Most grades of Castrol used to be like this, and they may still be. But a true Group IV synthetic like M1 has an engineered molecule that requires less (or no?) viscosity modifiers to act like the thicker viscosity at high temps.

Quote:
My car lives in a garage so cold flow is less critical, never really gets below 45º in the dead of winter.
The engine was designed and speced to work with 5w so no issues.

Now if it lived outside and was a daily driver, then in the winter I might think about running it, but as it stands, no thanks.
"Cold flow" means the resistance to flow at temps lower than operating temps. It's measured at 40C (104F). So if your oil is at 70F, the low viscosity number is still the number that applies. IOW, it doesn't have be below freezing for a low-cold-viscosity oil to help reduce startup wear. 0w oils protect your engine better at startup, even if it isn't cold outside. If you have two oils that protect identically well at high temps but one is thinner at lower temps, you would always get better wear performance from the one that's thinner at low temps.

Also, you have to understand that the nominal multi-viscosity rating doesn't mean that a 5w40 is only 1/8 the viscosity cold as it is hot. That's not what the rating means. It means it acts like a straight 5w oil at 104F and it acts like a straight 40w oil at 212F. It's still much thicker at 104F than it is at 212F!

That video you linked actually says these things, in a roundabout way. But you can also just compare the data sheets for Motul 5w40 8100 X-Clean (a very good Dexos 2 oil) to Mobil 1 ESP 0w40. The difference between them in Kinematic Viscosity @ 40C is pretty massive, with the much better-flowing M1 providing a lot better flow and protection at 104F than the Motul. Also note that each is roughly 6x thicker at 104F than they are at 212F in absolute terms, so your concern about the 0w40 being too thin at low temps is not well founded.

The fact is that any Dexos 2 oil has to meet the most stringent wear requirements ever required by a manufacturer. And if you look at the data sheet on the M1 0w40, it's extremely good in all pertinent categories. With its superior cold flow properties, a 0w40 that meets Dexos 2 requirements is going to be better for any street-used engine that sees lots of cold starts than will an otherwise-equivalent 5w40.
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:57 AM   #19
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While I get some of the scientific explanations, I don't see how 0W-40 has any advantage over a 5W-40 for track use. I ran the Valvoline 5w-40 old formula for almost 3 years daily and track with no issues whatsoever in 45,000 miles. So if the owner's manual states that 5w-30 Dexos is suitable for daily driving, then how is 5w-40 Dexos NOT suitable to track use? When you look at viscosity charts, the lower flow rate first number is listed for colder climates.
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Old 08-05-2020, 01:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Redlinez View Post
While I get some of the scientific explanations, I don't see how 0W-40 has any advantage over a 5W-40 for track use. I ran the Valvoline 5w-40 old formula for almost 3 years daily and track with no issues whatsoever in 45,000 miles. So if the owner's manual states that 5w-30 Dexos is suitable for daily driving, then how is 5w-40 Dexos NOT suitable to track use?
I don't think the 104F viscosity rating makes any different for track use. If you started your engine once and never shut it off again until you sold the car, it would never make a difference.

Quote:
When you look at viscosity charts, the lower flow rate first number is listed for colder climates.
That's not correct. It has little to do with the climate you live in. Again, the lower number in a multi-viscosity is the rating your oil has before it has been warmed up to operating temperature. Specifically, it is the nominal viscosity rating at 104F. Even if you live in Miami, that rating will apply to your first start of the day, and you'll benefit from much better flow rates after initial startup. I would say it's even more important in colder climates, but it's not unimportant even in warm climates, as long as you cold-start your car on a regular basis (like almost all of us do).
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Old 08-05-2020, 06:51 PM   #21
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I mean in owner’s manuals, the optional oil viscosities are listed by what climate you live in. The sub zero areas usually listed the lower weight oil ranges.
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:03 PM   #22
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That's not correct. It has little to do with the climate you live in. Again, the lower number in a multi-viscosity is the rating your oil has before it has been warmed up to operating temperature. Specifically, it is the nominal viscosity rating at 104F. Even if you live in Miami, that rating will apply to your first start of the day, and you'll benefit from much better flow rates after initial startup. I would say it's even more important in colder climates, but it's not unimportant even in warm climates, as long as you cold-start your car on a regular basis (like almost all of us do).[/QUOTE]

Since GM confirms 5W to be the correct specification in low ambient temps for the LT1 engine, which BtW has not changed its material since the introduction in the C7 2014, I cannot understand the issue with using this viscosity rating, especially in warmer ambient regions. The real-world advantage of the 0W oils in reducing engine wear in the long term should be negligible.
Talking about Group 3 Vs. Group 4 oils: Do you have any proof that the Exxon-Mobil stuff (0W40 ESP formula) is actually based on a Group 4 and not a Group 3 ("heavily hydro-cracked") fluid?

Mind you, hydro-cracking is THE industry standard and most oil manufacturers get their additive packages from Lubrizol, Dow, Ashland, Etc. anyway.
You can get extremely high quality oils which are Group3 (where the additive package is superior) than I.E. mediocre quality Group4 base oils (in which the additive package is not as good / efficient). Moreover, engine oils have designations, meaning: For a street driven, GDI engine for instance, you are much better off using an oil with improved detergent components, to clean sludge/carbon build-up effectively, while still maintaining sufficient lubrication properties.
On the other hand, if your engine is designated entirely for race/track usage and for short periods (oil being changed before each event), then the necessity for "cleanliness" and detergents becomes unimportant, compared to the high level of lubrication properties.

I would say that most people in this forum, predominantly use their cars on the street and therefore, oils such as Mobil1 ESP formula, Motul 8100 XClean, Valvoline MST, Castrol Edge, Castrol Magnatec, and any Dexos2 / BMW LL-04, VW 505.01, MB 229.51, ACEA C3 for this matter, would serve this purpose well.
Most important! Change your oil frequently and keep it fresh.
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Old 08-05-2020, 08:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
Since GM confirms 5W to be the correct specification in low ambient temps for the LT1 engine, which BtW has not changed its material since the introduction in the C7 2014, I cannot understand the issue with using this viscosity rating, especially in warmer ambient regions. The real-world advantage of the 0W oils in reducing engine wear in the long term should be negligible.
I don't know about earlier cars, but the manual for my 2020 says:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevrolet
Use SAE 0W-40 viscosity grade engine oil for the LT1 and LT4 engines. When selecting an oil of the appropriate viscosity grade, it is
recommended to select an oil of the correct specification. See “Specification” earlier in this section. If 0W-40 dexos2 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 dexos1 full synthetic engine oil may be used for street use.
It doesn't give different recommendations for different climates. It also says that 0w-40 dexos2 is the factory fill (which I assume means it is Mobil 1), and that this is recommended for track use on an LT1 or non-ZLE LT4. I never said there was "an issue" with using a 5w-40 oil. I'm saying that the most protection for an LT1 in normal street use is given by 0w-40 oil. If for some reason you don't want to use that, despite the factory recommendation, I am sure that your engine won't seize tomorrow. I just can't see a reason not to use it.

Quote:
Talking about Group 3 Vs. Group 4 oils: Do you have any proof that the Exxon-Mobil stuff (0W40 ESP formula) is actually based on a Group 4 and not a Group 3 ("heavily hydro-cracked") fluid?
I do not.

Quote:
You can get extremely high quality oils which are Group3 (where the additive package is superior) than I.E. mediocre quality Group4 base oils (in which the additive package is not as good / efficient).
I'm sure that's true.
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:10 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
Most important! Change your oil frequently and keep it fresh.
I use the oil life monitor to judge when to change the oil.


When the oil life hits about 50% on the monitor, which ends up being like 4000+/- miles, I change with a ACDelco PF64.









:flamesuiton:
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:25 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Boost Creep View Post


When the oil life hits about 50% on the monitor, which ends up being like 4000+/- miles, I change with a ACDelco PF64.

:flamesuiton:
This is perfect! I must admit that I only change at the ~ 20% oil life indicator, it happens only after I drive about 2500-3000 miles.
In my case, the time factor of the % makes the difference, since I do not daily drive my 1LE and I believe that the % indicator counts 365 days from 100%-Down to- 0%.
So even if I would theoretically not use the engine at all, if 1 year goes by since the last oil change, I will be down to 0 % no matter what.
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Old 08-15-2020, 08:39 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
This is perfect! I must admit that I only change at the ~ 20% oil life indicator, it happens only after I drive about 2500-3000 miles.
In my case, the time factor of the % makes the difference, since I do not daily drive my 1LE and I believe that the % indicator counts 365 days from 100%-Down to- 0%.
So even if I would theoretically not use the engine at all, if 1 year goes by since the last oil change, I will be down to 0 % no matter what.
Funny thing I noticed compared to a C6 corvette, the Camaro oil life monitor is more aggressive.
What I mean is, in the same type and mileage driving, the Camaro gets down to about 50% life left where in the same mileage/time/driving style the Corvette was only down to something like 70%.

Just thought it was weird. I had planned the same oil change schedule and as I drove the car I noticed the Camaro ate through the life percentage much quicker than the C6.
So I stuck with the mileage interval range, about 4000, just changed the way I use the life monitor as the indicator. Instead of changing at 70%, I now shoot for 50%.

/sidetrack
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Old 08-15-2020, 08:48 AM   #27
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I change mine every 5000 or so and my oil change reminder rarely comes on saying anything. The whole point of synthetic oil originally was for longer oil change intervals. Many manufacturers advertise 10,000, 16,000, 20,000 and even 22,000 mile oil change intervals. I think we just might be changing it quite early even at 5000. But we love our cars!!
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Old 08-17-2020, 10:24 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldi Z View Post
This is perfect! I must admit that I only change at the ~ 20% oil life indicator, it happens only after I drive about 2500-3000 miles.

In my case, the time factor of the % makes the difference, since I do not daily drive my 1LE and I believe that the % indicator counts 365 days from 100%-Down to- 0%.

So even if I would theoretically not use the engine at all, if 1 year goes by since the last oil change, I will be down to 0 % no matter what.


I changed mine last fall, fast forward to this August (398 miles driven) my OLM was at 20%. Planning to do a track day next month so I changed the oil. I also sent a sample for analysis and it came back fine. I should have left it but wanted to be on the safe side and have piece of mind.


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