I think I'm screwed. Please help.

[Waltonius]

Was driving today and out of nowhere the engine started making a ticking noise and sounded like it barely wanted to run. I had been having a slight misfire problem but it was only when the car was under load.

https://youtu.be/Xd1VLQTKUGw

[Coz3z3]

Any codes?
Did it go into limp mode?

Is this the L99 or LS3? Miles?

[CamaroFred]

Battery?
Sucks the blood right out of the arteries.

[Waltonius]

Haven't got to check the codes yet, I'm getting it towed today. It's the LS3 and I've got 111000 on it. Doubt it's the battery since it still turns on and off fine. Talked to one friend who said it might be the valve spring but I wanted to get a couple more opinions on it

[mlee]

First off.... don't run it anymore.

Your friend is probably right. Pull the valve cover and take a look.

[fhrex]

lifter failure. hopefully it hasnt wiped a cam lobe, but it doesnt sound good....

[SeaCompiler]

I don't think you are too screwed (depends on what you see after the heads are off), but those heads are definitely coming off. This could be a collapsed lifter and you hear the push rods slapping up and down, but you will be looking at a new cam almost guaranteed.

Step 1:
Take the valve covers off, disconnect the ignition coils. Turn it over with the switch or by hand with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt and see which one is not moving up and down - this is your offender. Not sure if you will be doing this yourself, but this is not an invasive test. Also, take a very close look at the trunnion bearings and if they look worn down, show shavings, needle bearings up top, little pieces, etc. Those heads will have to come off to access and replace whatever failed - that is 100%.

Suspect for background of misfire:
I had this same misfire issue (and engine failure like yours), and I thought I had a bad coil or wires, so I replaced them but experienced the same result. Turns out, not a few weeks later, I broke a lifter and heard pieces of metal bouncing around inside my engine and then immediate power loss and limped home. I believe this is due to my own bad decision to run just my turbo screen and the subsequent and extended period of months sucking in dirt acted like sandpaper on my trunnion bearings in the head. I would have misfires under load like you mentioned and I think it is because my trunnions were so badly worn down, the valves were not opening properly which lead to the misfiring and poor performance. When I took my heads off and looked at the trunnions, they were demolished and fell to pieces and I had a small chunk of block taken out where the lifter twisted and broke off. I was able to get a bronze sleeve put into the bore and save the block. Recently, someone came into my brother n law's performance shop and was having the same issue you were having and he also complained about misfiring under load before failure - just like you. It took a small chunk of his block too and had worn trunnions. I attached a couple of pics of mine so you can see how bad mine was (first pic is the repair and second is before repair). I have 1500 miles on my motor now and no issues with the bronze sleeve so far. If it turns out you have damage less than mine, then a sleeve should work.

Best case scenario for you:
No chunk of the block taken out and no lifter pieces or trunnion needle bearings. You had a collapsed lifter. You will need a new cam, lifters, trunnions. Might as well do timing chain, better dampener, get 3 bolt cam gear at the least. (I would consider melling oil pump upgrade and hardened pushrods). If you find a small chunk of lifter missing, it is a gamble to leave it with risk of getting it sucked up through the screen of the pickup tube destroying the rest of your motor later. Tough call there.

Worst case scenario possibilities:
Your trunnion bearings are bad and dropped needle bearings and other possible lifter debris into the motor. If so, that motor is coming out my friend. Now you got a whole lotta other decision making to do. If you let the dealership work on it, a lot of times they will NOT remove the engine to take the pieces out, so get in writing what they will be doing and if pieces found, they will remove the engine to clean it.

Recommendation:
Depends on your engine work comfort level

Option 1 - break it down yourself, manage the tear down and re-install, but let professionals (a trusted performance shop) handle the repairs and re-assembly of the motor. This is what I did. You specify the type of parts to use in re-assembly ie cam, bearings, springs, rods, pump etc. A short block assembly option is good which would include the whole bottom end and cam if this is in fact needed. You would have to install the heads, secure gaskets and torque it down using new ARP bolts. You remove the motor, keep track and label all parts and bolts. Re-install motor and hook everything back up.

Option 2 - break it down yourself and do the long block option which includes the heads and covers, water pump etc - pretty much everything you need. You remove and re-install and specify what you want done.

Option 3 - let someone do it turn key for you (easiest, but most exensive) and may not have the best care - but depends on where you take it.

Hoping for the best for ya

[TooCool5]

Pull the covers before you drive anymore.