[L78toLT1]

Can someone help me out with the torque value when reusing your old balancer bolt? I am pretty sure I read somewhere that this bolt can be reused. If memory serves the multi-step torque plus angle process does not apply, you just torque the bolt to a prescribed value.

[Dysan911]

I can't recall if the kit comes with a new crank bolt. I believe it does as it's not recommended to reuse the old one but either way its 240 Ft/Lbs.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I can't recall if the kit comes with a new crank bolt. I believe it does as it's not recommended to reuse the old one but either way its 240 Ft/Lbs.

I received a new bolt with my blower kit, but I don't think the cam kit included the bolt. I looked on Ted J's website and the parts list for the cam kit did not list a bolt.
The balancer/pulley bolts on modern vehicles are somewhat of a mystery to me. I cannot understand why they are all torqued so damn tight. Old school big/small blocks used a 3/8" bolt and they never seemed to come off. Ford always used a big ass bolt, but it was only torqued to a hundred and something ft-lbs.
I think I'll just order an ARP bolt and be done with it.

[KingLT1]

I believe the Stock balancer bolt is TTY and not re-useable because the threads stretch.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I received a new bolt with my blower kit, but I don't think the cam kit included the bolt. I looked on Ted J's website and the parts list for the cam kit did not list a bolt.
The balancer/pulley bolts on modern vehicles are somewhat of a mystery to me. I cannot understand why they are all torqued so damn tight. Old school big/small blocks used a 3/8" bolt and they never seemed to come off. Ford always used a big ass bolt, but it was only torqued to a hundred and something ft-lbs.
I think I'll just order an ARP bolt and be done with it.

Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.

This is why I buy nearly all my stuff from Ted! Phenomenal service before and after the sale.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.

Ted, my kit did include the phase limiter tool

[laynlo15]

Sounds like your making progress.

[hitmix300]

the crank bolt is not designed to be used twice. obviously many people do without any issues; but that's up to you!

two different style crank bolts with different torquing procedures. see the pdf from pace performance for all torque specs.

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Flanged Head
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 125 degrees

OR

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Retained Rotating Washer
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 200 degrees

https://paceperformance.com/files/pd...rque-specs.pdf

[L78toLT1]

Thanks for the link, hitmix! All I i really need, info wise to finish up is the torque values. You saved me the $15 daily service manual rental fee!

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Sounds like your making progress.

Yeah, slowly but surely. I managed to get the shortblock back together. Planning to dry fit the heads, check valve clearances and lifter preload if i can find a spare couple of hours today. The machine shop removed a total of .020 from the block & heads getting everything squared up. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok, but better safe than sorry.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Yeah, slowly but surely. I managed to get the shortblock back together. Planning to dry fit the heads, check valve clearances and lifter preload if i can find a spare couple of hours today. The machine shop removed a total of .020 from the block & heads getting everything squared up. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok, but better safe than sorry.

If that is accurate I would be looking at a 0.020 thicker than stock gasket to retain stock compression.

Of course if the pistons are the same CCs.

Ted.

[laynlo15]

Did you do stock compression? If not Ted is right, that would give you a higher compression rate that might be a little to high for boosted. I did a 10.5 motor

[L78toLT1]

Pistons are -6cc. reduced volume in the cylinder based on 4.06 bore & .020 reduced deck height works out to -4.24cc so my CR should be right at stock. Even so, I would feel more comfortable with thicker head gaskets. Do you guys have a source for custom gaskets, or off the shelf gaskets that are around .071 (I miced the originals at .051). BTW the machine shop had to deck the block to remove a small divit at the edge of the no 2 cylinder. I have no idea how it got there. I wrapped the block in a blanket and transported it in the back seat of my truck to the machine shop.
Do you guys have a recommended source for thicker gaskets? I miced the originals at .051.