[Jason18ZL1LE]

I guarantee you that your car runs OVER 210 with stock cooling. It’s widely known that the gauge on the dash is a lie. Once I hooked up my Aeroforce gauge, the chevy lienwas starring me right in the face. The car can reach 230+ on track and since the radiator is responsible for the oil cooling as well, it pulls the coolant temp up. C&R radiator, 160 thermostat, and Prospeed supercharger cooler with Prospeed fender tank have lowered my coolant temps to 180 max on track with 215-220 oil temps. IATs are also only 10 above ambient with this setup.

If you want care for your ZL1 1LE like I do, you’ll consider upgrading the cooling.

[DANACO]

Originally Posted by 2010REDSS

Racing Brake.....16lbs per side front and 10lbs per side rear.

Wow, that’s significant !
How,do CC rotors wear compared to iron ?

[Artos]

tagged...I might be a player on this at some point.

Jason, non 1le here...what cooling mods did you do??

[SJFGTO]

Mods and results in signature. Dynoed 570 stock except for a TM TB, so If the TB was worth 10, I gained 85 HP and nearly 100 in torque. Drivability is excellent. I have been a customer of Vengeance since 2006. Great guys, they know these engines inside and out, 1000% committed to customer satisfaction.

[Smokin19]

VR did the stg 5 kit on my Z/28, these guys know what they are doing. I would recommend them.

[Markoz28]

I think you’ll make good power with the mods you have in mind. I’d say some where around 630-650 RWHP depending on which pulley you decided to use. As someone else stated you might wanna go with the smaller pulley to keep from producing too much heat. For sure ceramic coat the headers.

[RDBill]

I went to Vengeance Racing. They did their CAI, Kooks 2" headers with green cats, 9.1 lower pulley and a tune and it picked up 99HP and 120TQ
They also added flex fuel and with 45% ethanol it picked up another 40HP and 40TQ


To keep it cool i'm running a 180 thermostat

Drives like stock until you put your foot into it. If you're near VR I would highly recommend them. First class from before, during and after the build.

[Slickcas]

Go for efficiency if your keeping the LT4 blower. You could even keep the stock boost and add a lot of power other ways which will keep your heat low. Any extra boost will add a lot of heat.
Complete Street Performance did a stock boost build on there shop ZL1 before the Camaro fest. A car ran strong all weekend and put impressive times down.
Basically Intake, 102 throttlebody, Ported blower with stock pulleys , and headers.
Around the 12:30 mark he will show The progression of each mod on the Dyno.
Sorry do not know how to embed videos yet Lol.

https://youtu.be/pJZB_D4VibY

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by Jason18ZL1LE

I guarantee you that your car runs OVER 210 with stock cooling. It’s widely known that the gauge on the dash is a lie. Once I hooked up my Aeroforce gauge, the chevy lienwas starring me right in the face. The car can reach 230+ on track and since the radiator is responsible for the oil cooling as well, it pulls the coolant temp up. C&R radiator, 160 thermostat, and Prospeed supercharger cooler with Prospeed fender tank have lowered my coolant temps to 180 max on track with 215-220 oil temps. IATs are also only 10 above ambient with this setup.

If you want care for your ZL1 1LE like I do, you’ll consider upgrading the cooling.

Yeah, that’s what I was getting at. I can’t believe they gave us a coolant gauge like that.

I have a 160 stat in mine, but no heat exchanger modifications other than an external reservoir. I’m mostly into dragstrip and 1/2 mile stuff, and it stays cool in those situations as well as any street driving. I’d definitely be looking at the type of upgrades you’ve done if I was going to be doing regular track days.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by 2010REDSS

Thanks for the feedback Mike! So.....what do you think HP/TQ gains might be? Who's going to do your work? Are you planning to add any cooling mods? Appreciate your thoughts...

...from what others are saying it looks like it's attainable. I was thinking more like 75 with those mods but would need to check in with my shop which is J-Rod and Sorian Tuning here in Houston. Should have my car down there again for some brake fluid and an after dyno on the CAI/Catback install in a couple weeks. Cooling is my biggest concern and probably won't mod much because of it. This is a road track only car so I'm not doing any mods that would deter from what GM has done. Headers and tune will be next for me.

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

Yeah, that’s what I was getting at. I can’t believe they gave us a coolant gauge like that.

I have a 160 stat in mine, but no heat exchanger modifications other than an external reservoir. I’m mostly into dragstrip and 1/2 mile stuff, and it stays cool in those situations as well as any street driving. I’d definitely be looking at the type of upgrades you’ve done if I was going to be doing regular track days.

160 T-stat for the drag strip, but should make zero difference in cooling on the road track. I'm reluctant to do pulleys without some sort of added cooling.

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by mlee

...from what others are saying it looks like it's attainable. I was thinking more like 75 with those mods but would need to check in with my shop which is J-Rod and Sorian Tuning here in Houston. Should have my car down there again for some brake fluid and an after dyno on the CAI/Catback install in a couple weeks. Cooling is my biggest concern and probably won't mod much because of it. This is a road track only car so I'm not doing any mods that would deter from what GM has done. Headers and tune will be next for me.

160 T-stat for the drag strip, but should make zero difference in cooling on the road track. I'm reluctant to do pulleys without some sort of added cooling.

Agreed. It certainly won’t hurt, but probably won’t help at the track without heat exchanger/radiator upgrades. I will say that mine cools off very quickly after a hard pull, though. I haven’t been to Willow Springs with it yet, so I can’t comment further.

[wildmark]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

This is a video I found a while back of Vengeance making almost 100 whp with just an intake and 2.30” upper. Seems legit to me.

I got the very same kit, 620whp on 93 and 670whp on E85, transforms the car, but drive totally stock.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

I'll step in here and recommend a slightly different route. You're clearly a very avid track guy. The LT4 is not great for track use due to a highly spun up, smaller blower. We all know the cooling problems and tendencies of the engine. It's packaged well in the ZL1 but it's still not perfect. I would SERIOUSLY avoid running any extra boost over stock. If you were to add a pulley, I would not go with even a 9.1" which would be ~15%. It would be fine to street and strip use, and maybe casual tracking but no way that it'll survive as well as stock for 25+ minute hardcore sessions like you're capable of.

I would recommend:
2" ARH Headers coated by Jet Hot
Kong Race Ported Blower/Race Ported Snout/103mm TB (Katech or NW)
Tune. Preferably on either E85 mix (A few gallons a fill up) or on MS109/100 octane or something. You do not need to run it on anything other than pump, it's just a little extra power off the table.

2" coated headers will provide max flow and keep temps as low as possible.
The ported blower and snout will add a ton of power and increase flow/reduce heat. You should actually pick up boost from this mod from what I've seen. There's no question in my mind that Kong is best. Their results are crazy. CSP did a Ported snout/Blower/103mm/Headers/Intake and made great numbers, don't quote me but I think it was around 650 RWHP.

I wouldn't do cooling mods and here's why. I've spoken with Jason from Katech. Katech is the foremost shop I'd say for actually TRACKING all of their builds. Jason himself has a total track animal C7 Z06 that's fully built. He knows everything about tracking these engines. What he's found is, the obvious first, everything gets hot when tracking. What tends to happen with bigger heat exchangers, intercoolers, expansions tanks, etc. is you end up just carrying around more hot water. Not really adding any real performance or track capability.

The CCB upgrade is probably not a great idea to be honest. Maintenance on the iron rotors is so simple and, comparatively, cost effective. I'd speak with KNS brake and get setup with track rotors and pads, eventually you will burn up the calipers and need to get a big brake kit. CCBs are going to be quite expensive to maintain. I've found that all of the local track rats be it Porsche guys or Corvette guys all run irons. Chevy themself said they found no reason to add the CCBs to the ZLE as there was no performance difference. Now I don't blame you for wanting them, hell I want them on mine! Lol. But for tracking, I'd definitely stick to iron. A racing pad and capable rotor will be night and day.

You're a more avid tracker than me so I may be preaching to the choir but just my thoughts.

[SteveV]

If you are just looking for 100hp and 100tq, check this out:



At time stamp 14:08 you will see a chart detailing from a base run to his final run. All without going into the motor.

He essentially has the supercharger ported, adds a 102mm throttlebody, a CAI, Headers, exhaust and a tune. Goes from 570 at the wheels to 670.