[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by D K

Thanks

My car would certainly see many track days a year and I would not be concerned with the ride quality at all.

Im just trying to see what the exact differences are, mostly between the FEA and the FE4. does the FEA come with DSSV?

FE3 = base SS (but different sway bars & springs between coupe & convertible)

FE4 = base ZL1 and the SS 1LE - different front spring rates because of supercharger weight

FEA = ZL1 1LE

[CanyonCarver]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

so i think my front left strut may be bad and i have to order a new one. I have a 16 1ss with no mag ride so it appears it should be a part#23420869 does that sound right? lol damn this shit is confusing or should it be part#23420871 ??



https://www.thatgmpartsguy.com/auto-...omponents-scat

Hey guys,


thanks for the info here. Couple questions



I'm hearing a sound from front left and can't figure out what it is. Krops, was there a sound the strut made at all?


I have a rotational rubbing sound, mostly when turning left. None when turning right. It seems metallic and has been getting progressively worse. The car tracks fine and no vibe thru steering wheel.


Recently changed front brake pads & rotors, wheel bearing, tires. Still have the noise (damnit).


Also- Where are you guys finding torque specs? I need the wheel bearing torque and brake caliper bolts. Still can't find if they are TTY


Many thanks

[Shawnqa800720]

This is a great thread to educate a newbie. Does anyone on here know the difference between the FE4 and FEA sway bars? They have different part numbers, so assuming there is a difference, but curious if the difference is only in the included bracket bushings, or in the actual bar rigidity. As others have mentioned, the FEA sway bar is cheaper than the FE4 sway bar.

Thanks for all the great info.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Shawnqa800720

This is a great thread to educate a newbie. Does anyone on here know the difference between the FE4 and FEA sway bars? They have different part numbers, so assuming there is a difference, but curious if the difference is only in the included bracket bushings, or in the actual bar rigidity. As others have mentioned, the FEA sway bar is cheaper than the FE4 sway bar.

Thanks for all the great info.

I'm glad it's been helpful!

I don't believe anyone has taken a caliper to the FEA anti-roll bars (bar diameter and forged end thickness), but that would be very helpful to calculate their relative stiffness.

Until the measurements come out, the only rumors are the FEA anti-roll bars are less stiff than FE4 bars. This is logical given the massive increase in FEA spring rate vs. FE4 to have a rational dynamic wheel rate for the Supercar 3R tires of the FEA setup.

[Shawnqa800720]

Hey all - something I did not find in this entire thread is a part number for the ZL1 1LE aluminum cradle lock out "bushing". Does anyone know what that PN is? I may still just go with the BMR lockout kit since being a total monkey, I may be able to do this myself, vs. spending hundreds (thousands? ) to have someone else fondle my rear end.


Additional question: has anyone compared the full GM aluminum lock out to the BMR lock out kit? For my driving skill level, I seriously doubt i'd be able to tell the difference, but curious if any of you real drivers think you could. Also, I'd have to imagine that over time the lock out kit would wear down some since it is still relying partly on the rubber bushing (and just filling the gaps with the "bullets"), whereas the GM aluminum lock out will never fade.

Let me know your thoughts. This thread is like a great movie - view it over and over again and you'll still learn something you missed the first time through - amazing work by you all!

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Shawnqa800720

Hey all - something I did not find in this entire thread is a part number for the ZL1 1LE aluminum cradle lock out "bushing". Does anyone know what that PN is? I may still just go with the BMR lockout kit since being a total monkey, I may be able to do this myself, vs. spending hundreds (thousands? ) to have someone else fondle my rear end.


Additional question: has anyone compared the full GM aluminum lock out to the BMR lock out kit? For my driving skill level, I seriously doubt i'd be able to tell the difference, but curious if any of you real drivers think you could. Also, I'd have to imagine that over time the lock out kit would wear down some since it is still relying partly on the rubber bushing (and just filling the gaps with the "bullets"), whereas the GM aluminum lock out will never fade.

Let me know your thoughts. This thread is like a great movie - view it over and over again and you'll still learn something you missed the first time through - amazing work by you all!

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84341929.html


I doubt you will find anyone who has compared the two. People either go for one or the other and I doubt they interact with each other. Do what works best for your situation and your goals.

For me, I am a handling whore and my last car was the 16' M3 (which has the rear sub-frame hard mounted from the factory) and going into the SS 1LE, I noticed IMMEDIATELY that the 1LE was not. That is the only weak point on the SS 1LE. You don't notice it really with regular driving, but as soon as you start pushing the car and especially when doing any quick lane changes or quick transitions, you can tell right away.

After the install, that solid rear-end feel that I felt in the M3 was now in the SS 1LE.

Do it, you will not regret it.

[zts1986]

Hey all, fantastic thread here. Quick question:

I'm currently looking to upgrade just my rear stabilizer bar in my FE2 suspension. I don't plan on tracking my car or anything, but I would like to decrease roll a bit in the twisties. I'm figuring that this would be a modest upgrade at a low cost.

From what I can tell, all coupe suspensions share the same links for the rear stabilizer bar. I shouldn't have to purchase anything there. Is there any fitment issues with any of the bars for the FE3, FE4, and FEA? I'm also wondering if anybody has diameter information on these bars, and whether or not they are solid or hollow. Any help would be appreciated!

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by zts1986

Hey all, fantastic thread here. Quick question:

I'm currently looking to upgrade just my rear stabilizer bar in my FE2 suspension. I don't plan on tracking my car or anything, but I would like to decrease roll a bit in the twisties. I'm figuring that this would be a modest upgrade at a low cost.

From what I can tell, all coupe suspensions share the same links for the rear stabilizer bar. I shouldn't have to purchase anything there. Is there any fitment issues with any of the bars for the FE3, FE4, and FEA? I'm also wondering if anybody has diameter information on these bars, and whether or not they are solid or hollow. Any help would be appreciated!

Well, has anyone measured the FE2 bars? They're likely hollow just like the FE3, FE4, and FEA bars. You can tell as the end forgings are the two wall thicknesses smashed together. From there you can calculate the ID.

As it stands, the FE4 bars are the stiffest OEM. I haven't seen caliper measurements for the FE3 bars, just the rates that aftermarket companies have advertised to compare to their offerings. That said, FE3 and FEA bars may be fairly similar; for sure both are softer than FE4 bars. I *think* the FEA bars are slightly softer than the FE3, but I can't be positive yet.

I think looking at the Camaro suspension hierarchy it's safe to say the FE3 bars are where you want to head. That'll give you roughly an LT 1LE setup. My recommendation is to do both front and rear. The bars are cheap and they're a known balance.

[zts1986]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Well, has anyone measured the FE2 bars? They're likely hollow just like the FE3, FE4, and FEA bars. You can tell as the end forgings are the two wall thicknesses smashed together. From there you can calculate the ID.

As it stands, the FE4 bars are the stiffest OEM. I haven't seen caliper measurements for the FE3 bars, just the rates that aftermarket companies have advertised to compare to their offerings. That said, FE3 and FEA bars may be fairly similar; for sure both are softer than FE4 bars. I *think* the FEA bars are slightly softer than the FE3, but I can't be positive yet.

I think looking at the Camaro suspension hierarchy it's safe to say the FE3 bars are where you want to head. That'll give you roughly an LT 1LE setup. My recommendation is to do both front and rear. The bars are cheap and they're a known balance.

Appreciate the response. I'm going to get under my car this weekend and get some measurements. I'm currently deciding between the FE3 and the FE4 bars, but I'd like to find the OD/ID info of those bars as well, first. I am also tempted to buy from a supplier like BMR, who has their 1.25" diameter bar coming with some polyurethane bushings, which I'm interested in as well.

I've been undecided on doing just the rear or both the front and rear together. I have to do some more research on this. What drives you to your recommendation?

[Ryephile]

The FE4 bars are meant for the big sticky Supercar 3 tires. For all practical purposes, the FE2, FE3, and FE4 all have about the same spring rates, especially in comparison to the FEA setup. As such, between FE2, FE3, and FE4, the main differences are dampers, anti-roll bars, bushings, and tires.

Given your avatar of your car in the snow, I was guessing track-days wasn't going to be your main focus, and probably a 245-ish all-season would be your tire. Maybe I'm wrong, let me know. As such, the FE4 bars would be too stiff for such a tire and on the street. The springs, anti-roll bars, and bushings all have to add up to match the tire being used. Making a big jump on the bars without changing the tire would end up with overall worse handling, as the suspension would force the tires to skip rather than grip.

Great example; my SS 1LE with even stiffer aftermarket bars doesn't grip very well on my 245 wide winter tires, but really comes into its own on 305 wide Supercar 3R track tires. It's all about matching the suspension to the application and tire being used.

Finally, polyurethane bushings are probably the worst thing you can use on a car. The OEM rubber are quiet, effective, and require zero maintenance. Poly is susceptible to dirt, noisy, have high stiction [and poor predictability], and high wear rate. It is very cheap and easy to mold, which are the primary reasons the aftermarket use them.


IMO, we should start a separate thread to compare the data of all the different OEM & aftermarket anti-roll bars.

[zts1986]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

The FE4 bars are meant for the big sticky Supercar 3 tires. For all practical purposes, the FE2, FE3, and FE4 all have about the same spring rates, especially in comparison to the FEA setup. As such, between FE2, FE3, and FE4, the main differences are dampers, anti-roll bars, bushings, and tires.

Given your avatar of your car in the snow, I was guessing track-days wasn't going to be your main focus, and probably a 245-ish all-season would be your tire. Maybe I'm wrong, let me know. As such, the FE4 bars would be too stiff for such a tire and on the street. The springs, anti-roll bars, and bushings all have to add up to match the tire being used. Making a big jump on the bars without changing the tire would end up with overall worse handling, as the suspension would force the tires to skip rather than grip.

Great example; my SS 1LE with even stiffer aftermarket bars doesn't grip very well on my 245 wide winter tires, but really comes into its own on 305 wide Supercar 3R track tires. It's all about matching the suspension to the application and tire being used.

Finally, polyurethane bushings are probably the worst thing you can use on a car. The OEM rubber are quiet, effective, and require zero maintenance. Poly is susceptible to dirt, noisy, have high stiction [and poor predictability], and high wear rate. It is very cheap and easy to mold, which are the primary reasons the aftermarket use them.


IMO, we should start a separate thread to compare the data of all the different OEM & aftermarket anti-roll bars.

Absolutely fantastic write up. I appreciate the time that you took with this, thanks.

You nailed it with the guess from my avatar. My car was purchased as a daily driver, year-round and the stock all-seasons are still on it. I'm just looking for a way to have a bit better handling in the corners. The FE3 bars seem like quite an extremely affordable way to do this.

I'll be sure to post my thoughts after the change as well as some info on bar diameters.

[kmccall1978]

I’m curious,...i have a 1ss non mag....i have the 1le springs and sway bars....want the gm performance suspension kit but only need the front and rear struts..does anyone know the non mag performance part#?

[bpang1234]

THANK YOU OP for putting up this information!

My front ball joints need replacement so I was about to look up what the FE4 parts were versus just replacing the FE3 (I have BMR sway bars and end links already).

I am going to put the order in later this week!

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by kmccall1978

I’m curious,...i have a 1ss non mag....i have the 1le springs and sway bars....want the gm performance suspension kit but only need the front and rear struts..does anyone know the non mag performance part#?

This is what I had for those strut/shock part #s, that come with the SS lowering kit (ie. spring/shock kit part # 84203549). I'd double check it though. These came from a GMPP marketing manager so should be accurate.

Front Right strut - 84004135
Front Left strut - 84004134
Rear Shock Absorber Both Sides – 84096556

One thing though: I'm pretty sure the 1LE springs and Lowering kit (84203549) springs are not the same, so be careful with mixing and matching parts.