[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

OK King. Basically it is the crank case pressure that worries me, not so much catching the oil / fluids vapors.

Talking about pressure: Do you believe that replacing the front crank seal to an LS3 unit is vital? Is the LT1's seal so much of a downgrade?

I won’t answer for King since he knows more than I do, but in my humble opinion if you have a catch can or breather that can vent off to atmosphere if need be, then addressing the seal is much less of an issue. Preventing crankcase pressure build up is the key to preventing a seal issue to begin with.

[cjperformance]

Since the LT1 -> LT4 high side swap went so well, I placed an order for the DSX Eth sensor kit.

Anyone want to shove me in the right direction for tuning updates to utilize E85? I do realize I wont be able to run full E85. Was going to start with maybe E15 or E30 by mixing in E85 with 93. We also have E15 straight from the pump so maybe even starting with E15 as baby steps? Goal being to figure out what eth% i need to be at to keep from maxing out my injector pw. Going to try to stay under 5.5ms.

Up to now, I've just been reading up on this. It seems pretty simple. The most basic thing is set up the stoich table if not already set up, and figure out how much timing you are adding at each eth level.

Edit/Update: Was able to get ahold of a tune that I think is set up for eth... Looks like the tables are:

Engine->Spark->Advance->Fuel (multiple tables) "FlexFuel" "FlexFuelMulti" "Gas" "Alcohol"
and then under
Engine->Spark->Advance->MBT Corrections->Fuel (multiple tables) "Alcohol Adder" "Alcohol Multi"


Engine->Fuel->OpenLoop->BlendFactor
Engine->Fuel->PowerEnrich->EQ Ratio
Engine->Fuel->FlexFuel-> (several values including) Fuel Sensor Virtual/Sensor and several under "Inference" and "Blending"

Still would like some verification of what needs to be changed, because this tune just happens to have changes in those areas. I am not actually sure of the origin of the tune, so naturally dont trust.

[Trochoidal]

How’s this CJ?

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=469951

[KingLT1]

If your 93 tune is on point then all you need to do is follows.

Engine/Flex fuel/ Sensor - Enable

Engine/ Fuel/ Stoich- populate all percentages with the correct stoich values.

Engine/ Spark/ Flex Spark/ - populate this table all areas where you see vacuum leave zero. Where you see boost start with 2 degrees and blend up to 5 degrees above 4800 rpm.

Engine/ Spark/ Flex / multiplier- 0, .20, .50, 1.0

Engine/ Spark/ Flex/ Gas&Alcohol - make sure these are zero'd out.

Engine/ Fuel / PE Alcohol / - set to 1.2

This should get you started. I still use humidity spark(some tuners zero this out) so there is another 2 degrees usually factored on top of my base high octane spark table which is set to 12 degrees. On E50 I am seeing 18.5 degrees with flex and humidity spark adders.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I won’t answer for King since he knows more than I do, but in my humble opinion if you have a catch can or breather that can vent off to atmosphere if need be, then addressing the seal is much less of an issue. Preventing crankcase pressure build up is the key to preventing a seal issue to begin with.

I prefer not to touch the seal as was locked-stuck in at the factory. I am afraid of leaks to occur as a result of replacing the seal / process of ripping out the original one, placing in the new one...not RTVing correctly and other stuff that can go wrong in the process.
Adding the catch can seems simpler and safer (if it does the job and the LT1 seal can still hold up well)

[KingLT1]

If you are pulling the balancer then change the seal. It's not hard and only cost 20.00 or so.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If your 93 tune is on point then all you need to do is follows.

Engine/Flex fuel/ Sensor - Enable

Engine/ Fuel/ Stoich- populate all percentages with the correct stoich values.

Engine/ Spark/ Flex Spark/ - populate this table all areas where you see vacuum leave zero. Where you see boost start with 2 degrees and blend up to 5 degrees above 4800 rpm.

Engine/ Spark/ Flex / multiplier- 0, .20, .50, 1.0

Engine/ Spark/ Flex/ Gas&Alcohol - make sure these are zero'd out.

Engine/ Fuel / PE Alcohol / - set to 1.2

This should get you started. I still use humidity spark(some tuners zero this out) so there is another 2 degrees usually factored on top of my base high octane spark table which is set to 12 degrees. On E50 I am seeing 18.5 degrees with flex and humidity spark adders.

Thanks! This correlates well with the changes I see in the tune I'm looking at.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by Trochoidal

How’s this CJ?

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=469951

Thanks! Good read!

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If your 93 tune is on point then all you need to do is follows.

Had an "aha" moment after thinking about your statement... I realize now that since the eth stuff just builds off the 93 tune, and is not a "separate tune", I need to sort out that KR occurring during the longer pulls on 93 before I go to E... the 93 octane tune should be the safest it can be before expecting eth to just sort out the knock issue.

It'll be a few days before my kit gets here anyway, so will work on that.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Had an "aha" moment after thinking about your statement... I realize now that since the eth stuff just builds off the 93 tune, and is not a "separate tune", I need to sort out that KR occurring during the longer pulls on 93 before I go to E... the 93 octane tune should be the safest it can be before expecting eth to just sort out the knock issue.

It'll be a few days before my kit gets here anyway, so will work on that.

Set the base timing to 12 degrees and see if the KR goes away. I would leave it there anyway, then use the Flex spark table to get the timing where you want it on E.

[cjperformance]

The canned tune messed with all the knock settings too from stock. Been trying to learn what all the knobs and buttons are doing. Long story short, they increased the sensitivity of the sensors for some of the cylinders, by a small amount a couple of 10th of a point on some of the cyls. Thinking about setting it back to stock settings.

So, here's my timing currently.... When you say "set base timing to 12", you are talking at WOT and high RPM right? I think that's about where I am already if I understand correctly. Was getting ready to pull another degree from 1.08g @ 5200 and up, but you think this is prob okay?

I'll prob still get everything from 1.08g @ 5200+ down to 12 at least.

[KingLT1]

Knock sensors need desensitized. Stock is too sensitive. I would get rid of the negative spark. Start at 5 degrees or so then increase up to 12 degrees and make it 12 from 1800-6800 rpm from 1.08 to 1.32. That area where it's 17 degrees isn't utilized much...you might hit that area for a split second on the stab of the throttle... lowering that down will help the tires hook without slowing the car down.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Knock sensors need desensitized. Stock is too sensitive. I would get rid of the negative spark. Start at 5 degrees or so then increase up to 12 degrees and make it 12 from 1800-6800 rpm from 1.08 to 1.32. That area where it's 17 degrees isn't utilized much...you might hit that area for a split second on the stab of the throttle... lowering that down will help the tires hook without slowing the car down.

Thank you sir. Will apply and try during my lunch break today.

I believe the higher the knock threshold multiplier numerically, the less sensitive they are. I'll wager the canned tune INCREASED the sensitivity (lowered the value) because they are just really expecting knock to happen. For example, stock, the knock sensor threshold for some cyls was 3.4xx +/- a few tenths. Everything was made a flat 3.200 across everywhere. Some cyls, this was no change, others it's more sensitive than stock. Maybe that's why figuring out the KR on this has been such a pain.

I've seen other tunes with multipliers of 6.000, which seems like they are just maxing things out. Any others have ballpark figures where their knock sensor threshold multipliers are, and whether they have measured any KR in logs?

[cjperformance]

Ok, so here's the updated spark and the log screenshot. With the info about tuning the knock sensors... I'm not going to be too concerned about the KR that is registering. I'll probably tweak the knock sensors to reduce their sensitivity.

With the LT4 fueling, having a much easier time nailing the EQ ratio. It's just almost dead-on the whole time it's in PE mode. Was much more flaky with the LT1 system.

Something is pulling a half-degree from timing. I'm getting 11.5 instead of 12. Not sure if that is the KR rounding up or what. Maybe once I tune the knock sensors, it will stop.

Also, my DSX FF Kit just arrived. Good timing (pun intended) since I feel like I'm in a good spot now with the 93 octane tune.