[DaveC113]

The ZLE bushings do not add that much NVH, imo it's insignificant and a net positive. About the same effect as camber plates, but on the rear of the car. IMO, they make the feel of the car much better, you can literally feel the surface of the road through the tires and into your butt, you can feel what the tires are doing better. With camber plates you get the same feel through the steering wheel, and the two combined are a massive improvement for a sports car. If you just want it as smooth as possible maybe you should look into a Caddy instead, lol. Sorry not sorry.

IMO you're far better off with the GMPP ZLE bushing kit, it's not that difficult to install if you have the right tools, but whatever floats your boat is just fine.

[MatthewAMEL]

ZLE bushing kit is not worth the immense hassle of install as a DIY and certainly not worth the $$$ for a shop install. In relation to the BMR kit, of course.

The BMR kit gives you 90% of the benefit for half the work.


And while I certainly understand everyone's tolerance for NVH is different, there is absolutely an increase in noise from the rear end with the install of either.


I primarily track and AutoX my car. On track it was marginally noticeable, very noticeable for AutoX.

[Dabjbr]

I’m all for sharing experiences and celebrating products like the BMR lockout kit.

That said, there seems to be a lot embellishment or inaccurate claims…

“95% of the same performance without NVH”
According to who and how was this measured? Are you stating this from actual experience with both setups? Or solid bushings Vs inserts experience in another car? Or perhaps this is just a subjective claim. That’s fine if it is but you should state such.

“…works fine without an alignment. No geometry changes so no alignment needed. Sounds like a CYA statement in case the user did the install incorrectly.”
I’d argue the exact opposite. Even if you don’t fully drop the subframe, you must drop it partially to get the top BMR bushing inserted. If your subframe shifts in any way, your thrust angle and toe will be off. You may or may not notice but that can impact perf, wear, etc. Any performance gain could be negated by a bad alignment. Now you MIGHT be able to mark the subframe prior to removal and attempt to align it perfectly as before. However, the norm would be get an alignment.

“ ZL1 1le kit is superior by maximizing stiffness, however, NVH will increase 100 fold!”
Really? X100? I agree with your ‘maximizing stiffness’ claim but the latter part is exaggerated.

Alright, rant over. Sorry for being a D..k

Here’s my attempt at an unbiased review…
I just installed the GM aluminum bushings. The install was tedious but doable. Doing so, saved me money Vs using a shop.

What are my thoughts? It adds NVH.
Noise: mostly it’s the same as rubber bushings but when I drive over something hard like railroad tracks, the sound is slightly more noticeable.
Vibration: the entire backend feel more solid… because, well it is. That said, if you drive over rumble strips, the vibration is a little more pronounced.
Harshness: kind of the same issue thing here. The ride is stiffer. I’ve only driven 15-20 miles since the install so my perspective is still growing. My initial impression is it feels like I went from worn out bushings to a fresh suspension. That sound good right? However, I could also describe it as: Tour feels like sport. Sport feels like track. And track now feels like track 2.0. Read into that how you like.

One more thought…
In my previous BMW 335, I installed inserts. They stiffened up the ride a bit and didn’t really add NVH. However, there was still some wiggle. I didn’t mind on the street but on the track, it wasn’t fully communicative.

Now in my Camaro, I did solid bushings. I anticipated some NVH and got it. Some people said there would be zero change and that’s just not my experience. However, I fully expect to enjoy them on track. And for me, I will accept the slight decrease in comfort on the road.

It comes down to what you want, what you’re willing to spend, and what you’re willing to compromise.

One last comment. If you driving performance is high on your priority list, then solid bushings may be right for you. However, if you never visit the track whether that’s the dragstrip, autox, or road courses, then I woundn’t recommend solid bushings.

If you want just a bit more feel or sporty ride instead, the BMR inserts maybe the better setup for you.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

I’m all for sharing experiences and celebrating products like the BMR lockout kit.

That said, there seems to be a lot embellishment or inaccurate claims…

“95% of the same performance without NVH”
According to who and how was this measured? Are you stating this from actual experience with both setups? Or solid bushings Vs inserts experience in another car? Or perhaps this is just a subjective claim. That’s fine if it is but you should state such.

“…works fine without an alignment. No geometry changes so no alignment needed. Sounds like a CYA statement in case the user did the install incorrectly.”
I’d argue the exact opposite. Even if you don’t fully drop the subframe, you must drop it partially to get the top BMR bushing inserted. If your subframe shifts in any way, your thrust angle and toe will be off. You may or may not notice but that can impact perf, wear, etc. Any performance gain could be negated by a bad alignment. Now you MIGHT be able to mark the subframe prior to removal and attempt to align it perfectly as before. However, the norm would be get an alignment.

“ ZL1 1le kit is superior by maximizing stiffness, however, NVH will increase 100 fold!”
Really? X100? I agree with your ‘maximizing stiffness’ claim but the latter part is exaggerated.

Alright, rant over. Sorry for being a D..k

Here’s my attempt at an unbiased review…
I just installed the GM aluminum bushings. The install was tedious but doable. Doing so, saved me money Vs using a shop.

What are my thoughts? It adds NVH.
Noise: mostly it’s the same as rubber bushings but when I drive over something hard like railroad tracks, the sound is slightly more noticeable.
Vibration: the entire backend feel more solid… because, well it is. That said, if you drive over rumble strips, the vibration is a little more pronounced.
Harshness: kind of the same issue thing here. The ride is stiffer. I’ve only driven 15-20 miles since the install so my perspective is still growing. My initial impression is it feels like I went from worn out bushings to a fresh suspension. That sound good right? However, I could also describe it as: Tour feels like sport. Sport feels like track. And track now feels like track 2.0. Read into that how you like.

One more thought…
In my previous BMW 335, I installed inserts. They stiffened up the ride a bit and didn’t really add NVH. However, there was still some wiggle. I didn’t mind on the street but on the track, it wasn’t fully communicative.

Now in my Camaro, I did solid inserts. I anticipated some NVH and got it. Some people said there would be zero change and that’s just not my experience. However, I fully expect to enjoy them on track. And for me, I will accept the slight decrease in comfort on the road.

It comes down to what you want, what you’re willing to spend, and what you’re willing to compromise.

One last comment. If you driving performance is high on your priority list, then solid bushings may be right for you. However, if you never visit the track whether that’s the dragstrip, autox, or road courses, then I woundn’t recommend solid bushings.

If you want just a bit more feel or sporty ride instead, the BMR inserts maybe the better setup for you.

So when someone gives a different opinion than what you have, its embellishment but your review is unbiased. OK...

I trust the performance shop (one of the best in the country for the record) that installed mine, they've done FAR more installs of the BMR kit and the 1LE kit than you have or ever will. When they say the BMR kit gets the majority of the performance of the 1LE kit without the NVH of the 1LE kit, I trust their opinion. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that the BMR kit is going to have LESS NVH than the 1LE kit because the BMR kit reuses the stock bushings instead of replacing them with a solid bushing. Solid bushings have ZERO give in them so they're absolutely going to increase NVH where as the modified stock bushings won't yet still have a massive increase in stiffness compared to stock.

This is direct from BMR's website:

Once installed, the Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit minimized bushing and cradle deflection with nearly no change in NVH. (During BMR’s testing, no change in NVH was observed without accompanying modifications.) BMR Suspension’s BK063 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit is the only part you need to affordably and effectively lessen wheelhop, bushing deflection, and cradle movement. Throughout testing, BMR has seen about an 80%-90% reduction in fore/aft and lateral cradle bushing deflection. A car with no other mods and stock tires that isn’t driven overly hard is going to see a 90% or higher reduction, while a more race oriented Camaros with sticky tires will see slightly less of a reduction.

Also from the BMR installation instructions...

IT IS ALSO RECOMMENDED THAT YOU HAVE YOUR VEHICLE PROFESIONALLY REALIGNED AFTER YOUR INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE.


Note it says RECOMMENDED, not REQUIRED. Its probably a good recommendation simply for the fact that to get maximum performance out of it, proper alignment is needed, but that's goes without saying even on a 100% stock vehicle. BMR is recommending it because the person buying this kit wants maximum performance therefore an alignment would be part of that. Its not necessary though just for the installation of this kit

[willzilla]

I still need to get around to installing this and a small pile of BMR suspension bits that I have sitting on my workbench for months now, lol. Seeing these posts keeps reminding me I've been lazy.

[Krowser]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

I’m all for sharing experiences and celebrating products like the BMR lockout kit.

That said, there seems to be a lot embellishment or inaccurate claims…


“ ZL1 1le kit is superior by maximizing stiffness, however, NVH will increase 100 fold!”
Really? X100? I agree with your ‘maximizing stiffness’ claim but the latter part is exaggerated.



If you want just a bit more feel or sporty ride instead, the BMR inserts maybe the better setup for you.

@Dabjbr

I said this through common sense of the following facts:

1. The ZL1 comes with mag ride control and rubber rear bushings for a softer more compliant ride.
2. The ZL1 1LE comes with coil overs and aluminum rear bushings for maximum performance on the track.

The stock rear rubber bushings on the ZL1 is a comfy quiet ride; when you add aluminum bushings to the rear, you WILL get a considerable increase in NVH in COMPARISON TO A STOCK ZL1!

NVH = Noise, Vibration and Harshness...not even considering road noise, the lash from the diff alone will resonate in the cabin of the vehicle BIGTIME with aluminum bushings.

Hence, my statement of "100 fold". Your use of the word "embellishment" is an exaggeration in itself.

Next time, don't just read, but read with comprehension.

If you are going to address something with your opinion, make sure you know what you are talking about!

[DaveC113]

One issue is I'd never put a BMR part on my car, but people should do whatever they like.

Also, the thought that the ZLE bushings are so difficult to install is overstated for an experienced mechanic. It's not that hard, lol.

And if you want to install the BMR kit, and you also think the increase in NVH with the ZLE kit is too much, you should've bought a Caddy instead.

[Dabjbr]

Not trying to have a pissing match here...

If you don't see your comments as embellishment (or perhaps exaggeration is the more applicable term), then fine. I still stand by my words and disagree with yours. Free country. Others can read all the posts and come to their own conclusions.

Now in terms of the BMR bushings, even as a GM aluminum bushings owner/installer, I think BMR lockout is likely the better solution for the majority of people here. They're cheaper and easier to install. In the event someone wants to revert to stock, you can remove the top and bottom caps (while leaving the bullets inserted) with relative ease whereas the GM units are nearly a permanent change.

Again, I disagree with some of the words used in this thread. However, I do appreciate one taking the time to provide a review for others to learn.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

One issue is I'd never put a BMR part on my car, but people should do whatever they like.

Also, the thought that the ZLE bushings are so difficult to install is overstated for an experienced mechanic. It's not that hard, lol.

And if you want to install the BMR kit, and you also think the increase in NVH with the ZLE kit is too much, you should've bought a Caddy instead.

Always a stupid statement when people reference a Caddy as the polar opposite to get their point across.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Always a stupid statement when people reference a Caddy as the polar opposite to get their point across.

It's not the opposite, it's a car with the exact same chassis and more of an emphasis on luxury and comfort.

If you're worried about a little NVH that some may consider an improvement because it improves road feel and driver's connection with the car, then the Caddy makes sense imo.

[MartinLe]

After the install of the BMR parts in my signature, there was a noticeable increase in NVH. But on the other hand, the car is much more settled under power and when it does walk out from me, it is easy to compensate without too much throttle input. IMHO, it is well worth the money.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

After the install of the BMR parts in my signature, there was a noticeable increase in NVH. But on the other hand, the car is much more settled under power and when it does walk out from me, it is easy to compensate without too much throttle input. IMHO, it is well worth the money.

Agree 100%, same experience here.

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Also, the thought that the ZLE bushings are so difficult to install is overstated for an experienced mechanic. It's not that hard, lol.

I agonized a while over which kit to install. I was pretty sure I wanted to DIY, but I didn’t want to get in over my head. I contacted a few shops around here and got quotes for the ZLE kit. All were north of $1k. Most worryingly, all the shops said they would just torch out the old bushings despite GMPP stating they need to be cut out. If you torch the OEM bushing out, you compromise the cradle.

I did the BMR as a DIY.

BTW - your Caddy comment made me LOL. Check my sig for why. I decided to get a ZLE for track and a BW5 for all other manner of fun. For exactly the reasons you mentioned.

[Dabjbr]

I don’t think torching it out really compromises the steel subframe. You’re not hitting it long enough to alter shape or weaken the structure. That said, I did throw tin foil around sensitive components to minimize risk.



On a side note! I kinda like the Caddy idea. Lol. Ctsv4 and 5 are bad ass!