[laynlo15]

Alright and good luck. We are keeping our fingers crossed for you.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Good to hear but its a lot different then pulling out of the driveway and going wide open throttle on a dyno thats putting lots of load on the motor. I wouldn't run 0 weight either so we agree on that.

Agree

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

one thing you have to keep in mind is that comparing Advertised oil weight is like comparing different size clothing from one brand to another. 15w50 mobil 1 is actually thinner then 5w50 castrol edge. Not saying that is good or bad. I ran 5w50 castrol edge in my H/C LS car and was happy with the results. I picked that oil based on the lab testing posted over at Bobtheoilguy forum. That oil was tested to work well with most OEM and aftermarket Hydraulic lifters without causing restriction and excessive pressure build up. You don't want 70psi at idle. All you need generally speaking is 25-30psi idle and a 10psi increase for every 1k rpm increase. If I was to deviate from the stock 5w30 recommendation, that is probably what I would move to in the event I tear into the engine and do a cam swap and change lifters.

I havent got to run it yet but I did crank it up. Presure seemd the same to me about 38 cold. When things get hot it goes down to about 30 normaly. Hope to drive it here when the weather breaks some

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by Kerry

You know I guess appels to oranges but we have a little turbo cruze with the 1.4. It gets no mercy. As soon as it starts its out the driveway with more than half throttle most of the time. So no real warm up time. 160 thousand and not a hickup,knock on wood. 5w30. I am not a fan of 0 weight oil. Cause thats what it is cold 0. I think 5w or may be more is better for what we ask of this motor. Im gonna try the 15w50 for a while,

It's zero when it's cold for a reason though. To get where it needs to go faster. If I lived in cold climate I'd absolutely run 0w30 over 5w30. Once up to temp they've got the same viscosity but 0w is definitely going to outflow 5w until operating temps are reached.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

It's zero when it's cold for a reason though. To get where it needs to go faster. If I lived in cold climate I'd absolutely run 0w30 over 5w30. Once up to temp they've got the same viscosity but 0w is definitely going to outflow 5w until operating temps are reached.

I hear what your saying but an empty wagon will get their first but it has nothing in it, so once that pump spins it minum 35 psi. That will move it like right now. Acording to mobil 1 the 15w is fine all the way to 0 f. Has a -39 pour point.

The 0w is about gas miliage the way I get it. The high temp high shear rateing is just barely enough for those oils the way I understand it. Low hths is less drag so less fuel used. Hths oil that protechs better uses more gas because of drag to pump oil. How much more like .001% but when you manfacture a fleet of cars that adds up.

You are correct at temp its 40 where this is 50. To get a better hths looks like a person would need to go to a 50 weight. ow40 has like a 3.5 where the 15w50 has 4.5. More zink and the like. They make a 5w50 that has a 4.4 rateing. But its not on the shelf at walmart and the 15w is.

At least thats what my deep dive into google and talking to a few oil companys makes me think. The mobil guys says that the 15 will give the motor better protection both cold and hot but of course they cannot recmond it because of only track use. Could cause cats to clog sooner ect

My exanmanation of my engine leads me to belive the oil was just not quite doing its job for what I was asking of this motor. On my little 1.8 motor that runs 20 pds boost I went from the recmonded 10w40 to 20w50 and it shows with less wear. Mainly i see it in the charger that uses a thurst type setup to hold the shaft and wheel. Very fragel setup really. It needs all the help it can get and wears too quick but going to the heavery oil has really helped.

[Kerry]

So drove the car with the 15w50. cranking low rpm is about the same pressure. Some where it gets higher by about 10 psi in the rev range above 5000 I would say. it surges on the shift with both oils. Some differences is the oil is brand new and the other oil was used about 50%. Temp is about 30 and was 60 or so withn the 0 oil so I dont know how that would afect things. Top pressure 70 or so with the used 0. 80 with the new 15w. cruzeing the same. I thinkm the oil system on these motors is regulated electronicly?

[0025_SS]

So yeah we getting an engine. It has been harder to crank by hand. In that process I will upgrade my injectors, add flex fuel kit and get a new tune, then maybe lower the boost. More to follow on this. Thanks to everyone for their input.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Good to hear but its a lot different then pulling out of the driveway and going wide open throttle on a dyno thats putting lots of load on the motor. I wouldn't run 0 weight either so we agree on that.

Yes i agree that a dyno pull is much harder on the engine

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by 0025_SS

So yeah we getting an engine. It has been harder to crank by hand. In that process I will upgrade my injectors, add flex fuel kit and get a new tune, then maybe lower the boost. More to follow on this. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Sorry to hear that, I've been thru a couple short blocks but mine failed at the track. My buddies 18 is the only one I've actually seen lock up on the dyno, really sucks and cheap it ain't. I think I spend 8k on the first Manley short block and was able to find a low mileage Lt4 short block the second time for a 1/3 of that. Still in the car.

[Kerry]

Luckly I was abel to rebuild mine myself with 2 new rods and crank. Of course all new bolts and gaskets. So i got out pretty resonable money wise but it is a hellofalottawork. I wish you the best and if you dont have forged now is the time if the block is good

[0025_SS]

Getting a replacement engine soon. The shop covered it within warranty. Maybe in a month I could be driving her on the streets again.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by 0025_SS

Getting a replacement engine soon. The shop covered it within warranty. Maybe in a month I could be driving her on the streets again.

Wow the shop is taking care of it? Thats good to hear.

[0025_SS]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Wow the shop is taking care of it? Thats good to hear.

I paid some deductible and also bought new injectors along with a flex fuel kit. Will not fully send until getting forged internals, heads and cam. I am excited.

[0025_SS]

So it's been a while and the shop sent my car to the dealer to get diagnosed because he don't know why there are check engine codes in the car. It runs but on limp mode. We installed lt4 injectors plus a flex fuel sensor. Idk why it would be going to limp mode. I don't know what to do. I just need the car back before I go to rotation to Europe.