[VUD000 CAMARO]

Let me know if you are able to swap! Been trying to do this!

[HyperBlue16]

Originally Posted by metwaru

Thanks, Curious how much risk is there without a parking brake? This car is now a summer/weekend car and its always parked in either first or reverse..

Well, if you happen to be driving & come across a random roadside vehicle inspection and they ask you to set your parking brake, might be in a pickle!

With some modification(after doing a knuckle swap), you could make a Manuel parking brake control lever or break into the SS electronic parking brake cable motor and create a your own little switch by bypassing the factory circuit inside it to engage & release the tension on the e-brake cable.
I still have not found a schematic of the circuit to see how to actually use the original connector plus to control it.

[RobertAvitia]

so ss rear Calipers don't fit on lt models?

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by RobertAvitia

so ss rear Calipers don't fit on lt models?

Do they bolt on to the knuckle if you swap the rotor? Yes, they technically fit in that respect.

Issue is with the parking brake since the SS and 1-piece caliper Camaros use a centrally-mounted motor attached to cables that actuate the park brake while the LT with floating rear calipers has 1 park brake motor per side. Unfortunately, there is no "plug and play" solution for this as the brake control module (EBCM) would need to be flashed in order to properly control a different style of park brake. Simply changing the wiring harness would result in faults being set that would have the "service braking system" warning light on the dash and incorrect park brake application force. Using a retrofitted manual park brake would also result in dash lights turning on let alone the amount of work needed to add a handle/pedal to the interior. Lastly, without the proper wiring harness and calibration, some of the other backup safety features that are part of the EPB will also function incorrectly or not function at all.

[HyperBlue16]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Do they bolt on to the knuckle if you swap the rotor? Yes, they technically fit in that respect.

Issue is with the parking brake since the SS and 1-piece caliper Camaros use a centrally-mounted motor attached to cables that actuate the park brake while the LT with floating rear calipers has 1 park brake motor per side. Unfortunately, there is no "plug and play" solution for this as the brake control module (EBCM) would need to be flashed in order to properly control a different style of park brake. Simply changing the wiring harness would result in faults being set that would have the "service braking system" warning light on the dash and incorrect park brake application force. Using a retrofitted manual park brake would also result in dash lights turning on let alone the amount of work needed to add a handle/pedal to the interior. Lastly, without the proper wiring harness and calibration, some of the other backup safety features that are part of the EPB will also function incorrectly or not function at all.

No they don't just bolt up, the Knuckles are 2 different styles.
The mounts are not in the same position, because the LT uses a metal bracket to hold the pads/calipers, so the mounts in the knuckle are in more and closer together.
Where the SS ones are further out because the Calipers hold the pads and are wider. plus bigger rotors.
Here is a comparison of the 2. Left is the SS, Right is the LT :


I had an idea to actually bypass the cars parking brake system to at least prevent fault codes, but it requires machining a plate to mount in the rear suspension cradle to hold the parking brake actuators & basically make it think it is held against a rotor. Mounting a manual lever is a bit tricky, but there are some universal kits(also looking at other options) to place a pull lever in the left foot area or on the floor(just not much room). I think the LT does not have the in-depth EPB safety features as what comes with the SS versions, judging by the difference in wiring/sensors between the two.
I have been holding off trying to change over, hoping for a schematic of the wiring of the SS electronic parking circuit to see if i can use switches with the EPB they use, plus also to let my warranty get used up before altering. Might try doing it this summer.

[ej24]

Good afternoon, ya'll. I'm new to this site and thread, was relieved to come across others trying to solve the same problem I have. I bought a full set of SS Brembos for under $400, along with a set of drilled and slotted rotors for $150, as I was told that it should all "bolt right up" to my 2016 RS. This is true of the fronts, but obviously, this is completely false for the rear.

I am a fairly experienced mechanic and fabricator, so I am working on finding or making a bracket to keep the parking brake and hill stop assist operating as it should. However, in the mean time, since my warranty has finally expired, I am going to try and fit the SS rear hubs to my RS and get the brake rotors to mount. I did some pretty extensive research, and the hubs and splines are the same (they have the same part # for RS and SS), so I am going to order and install those (used, about $125 each, w/shipping) and then I will work on the electronic brake and see what I can do to get that to adapt somewhere else and still function. Or at the very least, make the car THINK it still functions. I will update as I make progress. Thanks for adding me to the group!

[HyperBlue16]

Originally Posted by ej24

Good afternoon, ya'll. I'm new to this site and thread, was relieved to come across others trying to solve the same problem I have. I bought a full set of SS Brembos for under $400, along with a set of drilled and slotted rotors for $150, as I was told that it should all "bolt right up" to my 2016 RS. This is true of the fronts, but obviously, this is completely false for the rear.

I am a fairly experienced mechanic and fabricator, so I am working on finding or making a bracket to keep the parking brake and hill stop assist operating as it should. However, in the mean time, since my warranty has finally expired, I am going to try and fit the SS rear hubs to my RS and get the brake rotors to mount. I did some pretty extensive research, and the hubs and splines are the same (they have the same part # for RS and SS), so I am going to order and install those (used, about $125 each, w/shipping) and then I will work on the electronic brake and see what I can do to get that to adapt somewhere else and still function. Or at the very least, make the car THINK it still functions. I will update as I make progress. Thanks for adding me to the group!

The hubs are the same, it's the knuckles that are different. Adapting the electronic brake parts is 2 completely different setups. Because the one is on the calipers, the other is separate and operated like drum brakes with a electronic cable puller, which i have torn one apart & seen the circuits that operate it(also to maybe bypass the circuits & make a manual electronic switch controls). The wiring on the car is different between the 2 & so is the software for their operation.

One thing i was thinking for bypassing the electronic brake after doing the conversion, would be either a aftermarket brake cable handle/foot kit for the SS version drums brakes or redoing/modifying the brake line between the front brake module and the rear hose to caliber, to install a manual brake line lock inside the car on the floor.

I have "everything" to do the switch now, but was also waiting for the warranty to expire before starting, but also was still waiting to see if anyone has been able to locate an electronic diagram of the LT/SS parking brake system to find a way to create an electronic bypass to send the correct signals to the SS cable module. Otherwise have to create flat plate brackets hidden under the chassis to hold the modules off the calipers of the LT to make the car think the modules are still mounted on calipers so they can stay hooked up & allow the system to still test them, without giving parking brake malfunction lights & warnings on the dash.

[ashafar]

Hey there HyperBlue, just following up to see if there had been any more details or progress. I have a 2020 LT1 which has the same rear brake style as the 4cyl/V6 Camaro models and running into this same issue trying to get my rear brakes upgraded for autocross. Any new info would be super helpful. Thanks again for all your hard work in this research!

[HyperBlue16]

I still have not gotten any type of schematic to compare between the two types of electronic parking brakes systems, it still looks like it would be hard to merge them because of the extra wires & more complex circuit inside the SS EPB.
I'm not up much on what can be done on reprogramming the Module that connects with the EPB to block it from generating lights/codes if the original EPB motor was left off the car after the switch.

So only thing that could be done at this point is:

Modify/create a parking brake lever for manual operations to the SS parking brake in place of the EPB motor. I have found a few aftermarket foot pedal cable kits for under-dash left side or add a pull lever along the transmission tunnel near the floor in front of the seat. But they are universal kits.
or
Install a manual Hydraulic brake lock between the master cylinder & rears, in the floor on the left side of the seat, to use as a parking brake.

Then Create a bracket on each side of the rear cross-member to mount the original electronic parking brake motor of the old caliper, so it can stay connected to the computer & still allow it to to do its test for the brake controller to prevent any codes from being generated. But even that requires a little fabrication on a mount & something to allow the motor to move slightly back & forth, but with some resistance to make it think it is pressing into the brakes firm & releasing.

If your not worried about seeing the parking brake malfunction notice/light, then could leave them off the car.

But that is about it, so it's just on what you want to do.
I still have all the parts, but since possible issues with my extended warranty, i put on hold till it expires.
Sorry , but those are the only option at this point.

[Big Jaw]

Hi,

Did you take a look on latest CT6 rear brake? I think would be much easier (need to check if rotor is the same)
It also have the electronic parking brake integrated on the caliper, but with a different bracket to fit on bigger rotor. Not sure if it is ok to use (brake balance), but it is worth checking.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by Big Jaw

Did you take a look on latest CT6 rear brake? I think would be much easier (need to check if rotor is the same)
It also have the electronic parking brake integrated on the caliper, but with a different bracket to fit on bigger rotor. Not sure if it is ok to use (brake balance), but it is worth checking.

CT6 uses floating rear calipers. Intent here is geared more towards upgrading from a floating caliper design to the 4 piston fixed caliper design. You'd likely be better off just swapping pads than switching to a CT6 caliper if you're only after increasing braking performance.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by HyperBlue16

I still have not gotten any type of schematic to compare between the two types of electronic parking brakes systems, it still looks like it would be hard to merge them because of the extra wires & more complex circuit inside the SS EPB.
I'm not up much on what can be done on reprogramming the Module that connects with the EPB to block it from generating lights/codes if the original EPB motor was left off the car after the switch.

So only thing that could be done at this point is:

Modify/create a parking brake lever for manual operations to the SS parking brake in place of the EPB motor. I have found a few aftermarket foot pedal cable kits for under-dash left side or add a pull lever along the transmission tunnel near the floor in front of the seat. But they are universal kits.
or
Install a manual Hydraulic brake lock between the master cylinder & rears, in the floor on the left side of the seat, to use as a parking brake.

Then Create a bracket on each side of the rear cross-member to mount the original electronic parking brake motor of the old caliper, so it can stay connected to the computer & still allow it to to do its test for the brake controller to prevent any codes from being generated. But even that requires a little fabrication on a mount & something to allow the motor to move slightly back & forth, but with some resistance to make it think it is pressing into the brakes firm & releasing.

If your not worried about seeing the parking brake malfunction notice/light, then could leave them off the car.

But that is about it, so it's just on what you want to do.
I still have all the parts, but since possible issues with my extended warranty, i put on hold till it expires.
Sorry , but those are the only option at this point.

I'm thinking out loud here.......so bare with me.
Another option could be: use SS rotors, backing plates, knuckles and calipers. Make a caliper mounting adapter plate to mount the LT caliper 180 degrees from the SS caliper. The LT calipers would have to be swapped side to side to keep the bleeder ports on top. Paint them black so they are not obvious. The car has the original PB so no issue with wiring or programing anything
This is the part I don't know: does the LT caliper actuator need hydraulic fluid to function? If not, easy. You're done. If so, that greatly complicates matters and may be why y'all have not gone down this path.

[HyperBlue16]

Originally Posted by h018871

I'm thinking out loud here.......so bare with me.
Another option could be: use SS rotors, backing plates, knuckles and calipers. Make a caliper mounting adapter plate to mount the LT caliper 180 degrees from the SS caliper. The LT calipers would have to be swapped side to side to keep the bleeder ports on top. Paint them black so they are not obvious. The car has the original PB so no issue with wiring or programing anything
This is the part I don't know: does the LT caliper actuator need hydraulic fluid to function? If not, easy. You're done. If so, that greatly complicates matters and may be why y'all have not gone down this path.

That's adding more weight to it & i think most people who want to do it, is for both looks(thru open wheels) & performance. So it would kinda stick out even black. But maybe, up to the person.
As for needing fluid, i would think not, since the motor if pressing in on the back of the brake piston to compress the brakes & then backing off.

My one idea for the actuator based off the pic below, would be to laser cut a piece of metal into a circle, with a notch on one outer side(about 3/8") & laser cut the center to match the teeth of the actuator & slip it on.
Then a laser cut mounting plate to match the pattern of the actuator mounting wings to hang it up on the cross-member in the center section of the underside of the car. A hole would be drilled for a 1/4" rod to be inserted thru the hole to match where the notch would be located & welded to the plate. This would give the actuator motor something to press/twist against in it's tightening direction when it does its random test, as the notch would twist 1/16"-1/8" into the rod & then back off.
From what i can tell(and this is kinda of a guess based off looking at the SS E-brake i tore apart), i think it uses load sensing of the voltage to tell that the brake motor is applied & when it releases. I have not tore apart a caliper mounted one to know.

Then just have to run a brake cable or hydraulic lock to make parking brakes. If it wasn't for the complexity of the inside of the SS e-brake, could fabricate a wiring harness to using it's electronics and then just add a switch on the dash or tap the original switch. But the insides have a lot more because it is sending high speed GMLAN Serial Data to the computer. I got the motor figured out to be a push button open & close, but that was after torn apart & bypassing the inside stuff. IF you could find a similar e-brake motor with cable attachment, but only a positive negative wire to pull & release thru relays, you could maybe do that also.


Pic was from someone else on the forums who looked at his, i save from reference.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by h018871

I'm thinking out loud here.......so bare with me.
Another option could be: use SS rotors, backing plates, knuckles and calipers. Make a caliper mounting adapter plate to mount the LT caliper 180 degrees from the SS caliper. The LT calipers would have to be swapped side to side to keep the bleeder ports on top. Paint them black so they are not obvious. The car has the original PB so no issue with wiring or programing anything
This is the part I don't know: does the LT caliper actuator need hydraulic fluid to function? If not, easy. You're done. If so, that greatly complicates matters and may be why y'all have not gone down this path.

I think this is the best option in terms of maintaining the park brake functionality. Basically copying what the C8 Corvette and a few other cars do for their parking brake. Toughest part in my eyes would be designing a mount that can attach to the knuckle, have enough strength/stiff to hold and brake the vehicle, and not interfere with the current brake setup or ruin the structural integrity of the knuckle, although I'm sure there's a way to do it. Luckily, the locking mechanism should be purely mechanical so no fluid would be needed so you could empty the caliper and plug all the fluid ports and call it a day.

Originally Posted by HyperBlue16

That's adding more weight to it & i think most people who want to do it, is for both looks(thru open wheels) & performance. So it would kinda stick out even black. But maybe, up to the person.

My one idea for the actuator based off the pic below, would be to laser cut a piece of metal into a circle, with a notch on one outer side(about 3/8") & laser cut the center to match the teeth of the actuator & slip it on.
Then a laser cut mounting plate to match the pattern of the actuator mounting wings to hang it up on the cross-member in the center section of the underside of the car. A hole would be drilled for a 1/4" rod to be inserted thru the hole to match where the notch would be located & welded to the plate. This would give the actuator motor something to press/twist against in it's tightening direction when it does its random test, as the notch would twist 1/16"-1/8" into the rod & then back off.
From what i can tell(and this is kinda of a guess based off looking at the SS E-brake i tore apart), i think it uses load sensing of the voltage to tell that the brake motor is applied & when it releases. I have not tore apart a caliper mounted one to know.

Then just have to run a brake cable or hydraulic lock to make parking brakes. If it wasn't for the complexity of the inside of the SS e-brake, could fabricate a wiring harness to using it's electronics and then just add a switch on the dash or tap the original switch. But the insides have a lot more because it is sending high speed GMLAN Serial Data to the computer. I got the motor figured out to be a push button open & close, but that was after torn apart & bypassing the inside stuff. IF you could find a similar e-brake motor with cable attachment, but only a positive negative wire to pull & release thru relays, you could maybe do that also.

I'm not sure this design would work that well. For monitoring an electric motor like that, the "load sensing of the voltage" part would likely just be monitoring current. Voltage would stay roughly the same since it's provided by the car's battery/charging system, but current will actually start to go up significantly once the motor starts seeing resistance, i.e. is clamping the pad to the rotor. If that's the case, there's probably some expectation that there's a certain amount of time at low current when you're either taking up the gap in the system for applying the brake or making sure the brake is released far enough when releasing. I'm willing to bet it'll set faults or otherwise cause issues by just locking the motor in place like that.

That aside, I still wouldn't advise trying to fake-out the park brake system. The electric park brake has other features besides just holding car in place when you press the switch in park. It can also apply the park brake in other situations as needed which would no longer be the case by mounting the motors somewhere else and trying to fake them out. Plus, it's a safety system meant to allow you to still stop the car should the normal brakes fail. A manual line lock wouldn't help at all in that situation, and a manual cable won't necessarily be guaranteed to work as reliably as the system that was validated to work on the car. It's kinda the equivalent of removing a steering wheel airbag and faking the system to think it's still there, except in this case it's putting everyone and everything around the car at risk as well.