[JeromeS13]

So, I've had my car for a couple of weeks, but I've been out of town. So, I've only gotten to drive her almost 400 miles. In CA, if you purchase a car from out of state, you still have to smog the vehicle. I tried doing that today, but my O2 and Evap systems are still not showing as ready. I tried doing everything, including following the directions in the link below, but both systems are still not showing ready... I've driven for 394 miles and more than a dozen cycles / cold starts...

Any suggestions? I only have two more days left on my temp tags...

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...47&postcount=8

[Eric SS]

Was it fully heated up before you had them test?

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Was it fully heated up before you had them test?

Yes. I have a hand held scanner and it's still showing not ready, even after driving for 60+ miles on the freeway.

[Camar05]

You should still pass smog if evap isn't ready, all you need to take care of is the O2 driving monitor.

GM uses a two-part HEGO monitor. The first part of the HEGO monitor runs after idling the engine for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. This checks the O2 heater circuit. After this, turn the A/C and defroster off, then accelerate at half throttle to 55 mph and hold at a steady 55 mph for three minutes. This will complete the second half of the HEGO monitor that checks the responsiveness of the O2 sensors.

You could try this for the evap though.There are two-parts to this test. The first part runs after idling for five minutes, then driving at 30 to 45 mph for two minutes (fuel tank must be half to 85 percent full). The second part runs after the vehicle has sit for 8 or more hours (cold soak) without being driven. Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by Camar05

You should still pass smog if evap isn't ready, all you need to take care of is the O2 driving monitor.

GM uses a two-part HEGO monitor. The first part of the HEGO monitor runs after idling the engine for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. This checks the O2 heater circuit. After this, turn the A/C and defroster off, then accelerate at half throttle to 55 mph and hold at a steady 55 mph for three minutes. This will complete the second half of the HEGO monitor that checks the responsiveness of the O2 sensors.

You could try this for the evap though.There are two-parts to this test. The first part runs after idling for five minutes, then driving at 30 to 45 mph for two minutes (fuel tank must be half to 85 percent full). The second part runs after the vehicle has sit for 8 or more hours (cold soak) without being driven. Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.

Does the O2 system check have to be performed on a cold start? Also, do these two sequences have to be ran one after the other?

I just did this (after the car sat for 4 hours) and it's still not showing ready. I'm now at 410 miles.

[Camar05]

Yes, IIRC, it should be a cold start and the 2 sequences do not have to be simultaneous

I dont think 4 hours was long enough. It must sit for at about eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temp is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its drive cycle monitors.

[Camar05]

Also you can not have the check engine light on. Even pending ones which will not show the light

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by Camar05

Yes, IIRC, it should be a cold start and the 2 sequences do not have to be simultaneous

I dont think 4 hours was long enough. It must sit for at about eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temp is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its drive cycle monitors.

So, I followed the directions on a cold start this morning. After a bit, the O2 Heater showed complete, but the O2 Sensor still showed incomplete.

:-(

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by JeromeS13

So, I followed the directions on a cold start this morning. After a bit, the O2 Heater showed complete, but the O2 Sensor still showed incomplete.

:-(

How much does it cost to just take the car in and have it smogged checked? I guess I would just take it in and let them tell you whether you passed or not.

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by sub_ETCS_ret

How much does it cost to just take the car in and have it smogged checked? I guess I would just take it in and let them tell you whether you passed or not.

To have the actual process documented, I believe it's $20 if it fails (also gets documented on the Carfax, etc.). However, I can verify myself with my handheld scanner if it will or won't pass. So, no point in driving over there to have them tell me the same thing...

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by JeromeS13

To have the actual process documented, I believe it's $20 if it fails (also gets documented on the Carfax, etc.). However, I can verify myself with my handheld scanner if it will or won't pass. So, no point in driving over there to have them tell me the same thing...

I'm still confused. What are you trying to prove on your own? That it's good? You still have to get it smog checked so why not just get it checked by an "expert". Is it really a big deal if it fails, shows up on a carfax, gets fixed, and shows up on a carfax. Seems to me like you're spinning your wheels on something that you could just have taken care of by a professional.


To add to this, it looks like you have a BRAND NEW car. If the car "meets CA emissions" then it should be fine and get it checked or take it to the dealer and have them check it (under warranty).

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by sub_ETCS_ret

I'm still confused. What are you trying to prove on your own? That it's good? You still have to get it smog checked so why not just get it checked by an "expert". Is it really a big deal if it fails, shows up on a carfax, gets fixed, and shows up on a carfax. Seems to me like you're spinning your wheels on something that you could just have taken care of by a professional.


To add to this, it looks like you have a BRAND NEW car. If the car "meets CA emissions" then it should be fine and get it checked or take it to the dealer and have them check it (under warranty).

I'm not trying to prove anything on my own. However, I do have the ability to scan my car and I can verify whether it will pass or not. Yes, I still have to get it smogged. So, if I can see for myself whether it will pass or not, why would I bother taking the time or wasting the money to have them tell me the same thing?

Yes, it may be a brand new car, but the emissions system still has to be fully functional before it'll pass CA smog (a requirement, since I purchased the car out of state).

As far as the dealer comment, it's not a warranty issue. The only thing that the dealer will tell me is to "drive the car more..."

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by JeromeS13

I'm not trying to prove anything on my own. However, I do have the ability to scan my car and I can verify whether it will pass or not. Yes, I still have to get it smogged. So, if I can see for myself whether it will pass or not, why would I bother taking the time or wasting the money to have them tell me the same thing?

Yes, it may be a brand new car, but the emissions system still has to be fully functional before it'll pass CA smog (a requirement, since I purchased the car out of state).

As far as the dealer comment, it's not a warranty issue. The only thing that the dealer will tell me is to "drive the car more..."

What I'm saying is that you haven't been able to do it on your own. Why would the dealer tell you to just drive it more? That makes no sense.

Good luck. It looks like you have all the answers.

[seanblurr]

For CA, this particular dealers experiences show that out of state vehicles won't (or at least, sometimes don't) pass CA smog when they are straight off the train and that in their experiences these systems "click" over at about 500 miles. So that is where I'm guessing he is getting the "just drive more comment".