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Old 10-07-2016, 10:56 PM   #43
Mojave
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Sounds fun. I love these cars, but I'm not an expert mechanic or anything. I just took my time and researched every step along the way. Patience is the key.
selling yourself short I think
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:01 PM   #44
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selling yourself short I think
to that. You did one hek of a job.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:56 PM   #45
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Bless you human, this is wonderful... Wish I had the money!
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:45 AM   #46
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A member asked me to post part #s so here it goes....

Keep in mind many of the '17 ZL1 parts were not available at the time I did my build so there might be more ideal parts available now. Also, I ordered my engine with the s/c belt, pulleys, heat exchanger, and supercharger inlet duct so unfortunately I don't have the numbers for these. Contact Greg Was at pace performance (gregwas@paceperformance.com) if you need these parts. Pace Performance is a GM parts dealer that sells parts as cheap as you'll find anywhere. (I am in no way affiliated with pace performance. I'm simply a happy customer.)

19332621 - LT4 Crate Engine (Wet Sump) - It comes with a very good intercooler pump (13597903). It also comes with the knock sensor heat shield it claims not to come with.
23117748 - LT4 Fuel line (Comes with plastic clips)
23455459 & 23455460 - Heat Exchanger Brackets (Left & Right, but I'm not sure which is which)
11570323 - Heat Exchanger Bracket Bolt - $3.66 each (x8)
23377187 - Brake booster vacuum line - This part doesn't actually fit, but you can use the connectors on it to make one that does.
13584423 - MAP Connector Pigtail - Some folks simply swap for an LS9 MAP without the IAT2. I bought this connector instead and ran a new wire for the IAT2 to the ECM.
12663963 - Evap Tube
84013640 - '17 ZL1 Radiator Hose Assembly - You can make the SS one work. There's not much difference, but it was worth the money to me to not have to fool with it.
12561465 - Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts - $.59 ea - (x6)
24268307 - '16 Z06 Clutch & Pressure Plate - $343.18
24255997 - '16 Z06 Flywheel - $601.03 (Same part # as '16 Camaro SS Flywheel) This comes with flywheel bolts.
12563485 - Flywheel bolts - $5.80 ea (x8) You'll need these if you are reusing your LT1 flywheel. Do not reuse the old bolts! They stretch when torqued.
12624939 - Exhaust Manifold to converter gasket - $7.36 x2
21992620 - Exhaust gasket (after passenger side converter) - $16.36 ea
12557583 - GM Roller Pilot Bearing - $11.34
19300589 - Coolant Pump Connector Pigtail - $50.32
12647125 - PCV hose
23385107 - Engine Wiring Harness for Camaro SS Manual with Magnetic Ride Control - $330.65
88988501 - Supercharger Bypass Connector Pigtail - $16.91
23296636 - Intercooler Hose
23424016 - Radiator Hose (Don't remember where this one goes)
11589264 - 2016 Camaro SS Exhaust manifold studs - $8.05 each. (x8) These can be reused, but are sometimes hard to remove so I just bought new ones.

Misc parts I ordered for intercooler plumbing
-----------------------------------------------
12670874 - Tube - $32.10
23424013 - Hose - $20.65
23424015 - Fitting - $32.99
11547667 - Hose Clamp - $2.40 (x3)
11570871 - Hose Clamp - $3.23 (x2)
11519385 - Bolt - $2.87 (x2)

Other stuff you'll probably need
--------------------------------
- Tesa 50126 Wiring Harness Tape (2 rolls should do fine) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Heat Exchanger

- ZL1 Jack Pads from https://www.zl1addons.com. I would buy 4 with the jack pads if you plan to use a lift. They're worth the money.

- PF64 Oil Filter and 11 quarts of oil (The first fill takes a little more than 10 quarts).

- A fused relay, wiring, and loom for the coolant pump. I used the Painless Wiring 30821 Hlite Relay Kit #37827 and modified it to work like a normal relay.

- Dexcool Coolant (2 gallons of concentrate and 2 gallons of distilled water will be plenty.)

- Fir Tree Push Mount cable ties. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- A set of Push type retainer clips. The Swordfish 60010 kit has ones that match GM perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Loctite 242 and 272... A tiny bottle of each will work fine.

- A/C Vacuum Pump kit to recharge A/C System. I bought these and they worked great:

FJC (6909) 3.0 CFM Vacuum Pump - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mountain 8205 R-134a Brass Manifold Gauge Set with Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mountain 8401 Top Style Metal Can Tap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ACDelco 10-9097 R134A (I think you need 2 cans. I would get 3 just to be sure.) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 19299818 - Brake and Clutch Fluid (FYI, to bleed the clutch on these you'll probably need to put a vacuum pump on the brake fluid reservoir. The bleeder is pretty much impossible to get to after the transmission is put back into the car.)

- Lots of time


Other Misc Stuff That You Probably Won't need
--------------------------------------
52474373 - A/C Compressor Seal - $4.20
12657093 - GM LT1, L83, L86 Exhaust Manifold Gasket - $4.03
11546600 - Exhaust manifold to engine bolt - $2.69 ea (x10)
11611992 - Supercharger lid bolt - $2.45
84044721 - Underhood fuse block (LT1) - $143.86
84063674 & 84063675 - Rear '17 SS 1LE Calipers - $240.00 each
12672471 - PCV Oil Separator - $80.04
12657430 - Water Manifold Gaskets - $2.48 ea (x2.)
12656725 - Engine Oil Cooler Line (Runs from the bottom of the water manifold to the rear of the engine oil cooler) - $50.42
23355791 – '17 SS 1LE Front Wheels 20 x 10 - $572.40 plus $50.00 core charge
23355802 - '17 SS 1LE Rear Wheels 20 x 11 - - $572.40 plus $50.00 core charge
23115614 - '17 SS 1LE Wheel Center Cap - $20.99 (x4)
13598786 (RPO code XL7 315mHz) or 13598787 (RPO code XL8 433mHz) - TPMS Sensor - $45.64 (x4)
24274085 - Clutch Slave Cylinder - $310.07
12644807 - LT4 MAP Sensor (just in case your engine comes with the wrong one like mine did)
12640390 - Knock Sensor Shield - $19.18 (The LT4 docs say you need to buy this, but mine came with it.)

Last edited by travislambert; 12-17-2016 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:31 AM   #47
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Bless you human, this is wonderful... Wish I had the money!
Owning a 2017 Camaro 2SS is something to be proud of!
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:23 AM   #48
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Great work! Did you happen to weigh the 1LE wheels? I'm interested in how they compare to the aftermarket versions.
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:28 PM   #49
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Great work! Did you happen to weigh the 1LE wheels? I'm interested in how they compare to the aftermarket versions.
Thanks buddy!

I didn't weigh them, but I think the front wheels are supposed to be 27-28 lbs. and the rear wheels are supposed to be 28-29 lbs.. My guess is they're so close to the aftermarket wheel weight the difference would be negligible on a full weight car. The tires you choose will make much more of a noticeable braking and acceleration difference.

It sounds like you're considering both options so let me share my thoughts...
The factory forged wheels are a sure bet on quality, but the cost is obviously more. If you can afford it, just buy the factory wheels and you'll be happy.

If money is a significant factor the MRR wheels may be a good option. It's unlikely the MRR wheels are better quality, but with their pricing they could be a better overall value.

Personally I didn't care for the fact that the MRR wheels require special lug nuts. I was also concerned that the color might not be exactly like the factory color and a stock appearance is very important to me. The OE wheels were also available on August 3rd which made the decision easy at the time.
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Old 10-10-2016, 04:49 PM   #50
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Great work! Did you happen to weigh the 1LE wheels? I'm interested in how they compare to the aftermarket versions.
I'll be getting new tires Thursday or Friday. If I get a chance I'll weigh the wheels.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:48 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travislambert View Post
Good Question.

The supercharger swap is probably the way to go for most people. The full engine swap was a lot more work (and money).

I decided to go for the LT4 because the LT4 is designed from the ground up to be supercharged. You get different/better pistons, heads, rods, cam, high pressure fuel pump etc.. However, if had it to do over, I'd probably opt for the supercharger kit and save two months of my life.
A couple more thoughts on this subject...

It's worth noting the warranty. GM crate motors have a 24 month/50,000 mile warranty.

Also, you might want to consider different gearing as part of the swap. I noticed my first gear is nearly worthless now. I haven't tried it on the track yet, but I can't get it to hook up on the street at all. Aside from the 0-60 stats, I'm sure this helped drive the decision to make the '17 ZL1 manual run 60 mph+ in first gear. I guess what I'm getting at is if you're installing a supercharger and want a better transmission gearing, it's not that much more effort just to pull the whole engine.

Obviously, do what make sense for your goals. IMO a simple supercharger install is a great option, but my original answer seemed incomplete without these thoughts.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:24 PM   #52
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I got new tires today. Michelin Pilot Super Sport 295/35/20 & 275/35/20.
Attached Images
    

Last edited by travislambert; 10-14-2016 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:36 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtirocz View Post
Great work! Did you happen to weigh the 1LE wheels? I'm interested in how they compare to the aftermarket versions.
I attempted to weigh the wheels using a bathroom scale. I weighed myself and then weighed myself holding the wheel. The difference was 31 pounds for both the front and the back wheels. Obviously the back should weigh slightly more, but I'm thinking the scale I used is only accurate within a few pounds.

Sorry it didn't work out better. I wish I had a more definitive answer.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:20 AM   #54
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Are there many gear options for the A8 group, like mine?
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:12 PM   #55
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Are there many gear options for the A8 group, like mine?
I suppose changing the rear gear ratio is reasonable option. For myself I was just leaning toward getting a built transmission with a ratio that better matched the horsepower which would kinda kill two birds with one stone.

I really don't know much about the automatics. I'm sure there are plenty of options. I've just always had a manual. Maybe somebody else can chime in and help us out on this topic
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:28 PM   #56
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Here's a couple videos of the first and second 1/4 mile passes.It's hard to tell from the video, but I spun a lot at the start so my ETs weren't good. I was using launch control for the first time so I'm going to need some more passes in order to learn how to finesse it.

The car should have no trouble running low to mid 11's once it's dialed in and I learn how to launch it.





Last edited by travislambert; 10-18-2016 at 10:26 AM.
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