[cjperformance]

Ordered a Procharger, waiting for shipment now. I read through the install manual thoroughly and noticed there were no torque specs for anything except the crank bolt.

Having been an automotive enthusiast for many years, I torque EVERYTHING with a torque wrench when engines are concerned, even on the outside of the engine. Has anyone already looked up this info, if so, what did you find?

Any other advice, or "wish I would knowns"? I'll be using the recommended NGK 6510. Saw some You Tube vids where some folks had really great results and some required some fiddling after the install.

I haven't gotten any info from Procharger since I ordered from Summit Racing, but I heard it was about 3-4 weeks wait. I'll post up some pics and stuff once the install is done.

Its my first post here, hopefully my car specs show up in sig.

[Ajs16400]

Where in missouri?

[parbreak]

The only real torque spec that is important is the crank bolt. Everything else is just hanging parts.

[cjperformance]

I've worked as a machinist as well as an auto-tech in the past and am probably over-sensitive on the subject. No big deal. Here's where I was coming from:

In reality every fastener has an appropriate torque spec or torque range. I get that sometimes that spec is less important, but having worked on much more sensitive equipment in the past (CNC Machinery), it has taught me that mis-torquing a few things can have impacts on other seemingly unrelated things. The impacts of incorrect over-torquing of bolts are cracked parts, pulled threads, or even material deformation. Too low torque applied and the fasteners can come loose. On CNC machinery of course, when there is sub-thousandth of an inch precision, it matters. Probably not so much on hanging parts on an engine. The obsessive engineer in me feels horrified at the thought of not applying a torque wrench to every bolt/cap-screw. I was mainly concerned with the aluminum heads that it could distort the material or pull threads, and cause other issues if I just went with feel.

I will assume since the torque specs for some of the parts were not specifically stated, that the standard SAE Torque Spec Charts will suffice.

[OnThr3]

LOL Im from Wentzville Missouri as well! I just saw this red camaro without a hood that had a procharger on it.... Was that one of you guys? My camaro is red with black stripes with a wicker bill on the back and my plate is the same as my name on here! What cars do you guys drive???@ajs16400 and @cjperformance

[Ajs16400]

I drive a Silver 17 Convertible SS

[danhr]

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ed-Torque.aspx

here

add a dab of blue loctite

[cjperformance]

Car is bone stock right now. The plan is to add the procharger and procharger tune first, and see where things are in terms of HP.

Will I need a retune if I add long tube headers at a later point?

Also very interested in whether or not I need to invest in a wideband sensor now, or just wait and see how things go. It appears that the RTD will enable me to use the VCM scanner tool... really unclear based on available info whether or not this is actually true or not. If I CAN use it, is there an advantage to having a separate wideband, or if the A/F ratios as available in VCM Scanner (assuming they are) will be good enough.

Really just not getting enough solid info on what I will or wont be able to do in terms of viewing tune parameters with RTD, which I why I haven't done any of those things yet.

[Rallye Green Z]

I'll give you my two cents from my current experience. The install isn't too bad, took me and my son around 10 -12hrs, working at a slow and methodical pace. The toughest part was getting the crank bolt out and re-torqued. I ended up using a propane torch to heat the bolt head and release the factory "seal" that is on the bolt head along with a new short high torque impact wrench to get it out, after breaking one socket.

I would recommend that you get a catch can of your choice to relieve any crankcase pressure. I got a Might Mouse, seems to work well. No advocating only letting you know what I have.

As for the tune, I think the Procharger tune is safe as I've used it for about a year now including a day at a HPDE. However, I also am of the opinion that the Procharger tune is not real good. I installed a wideband at the same time as the Procharger, the tune is very rich at max RPM / Boost, like in the high 10's AFR. BTW I have a P1X otherwise a totally stock 2016 SS. If you can't do your own tuning I would recommend that you have a reputable tuner get you dialed in properly. I've recently started doing my own tuning as I wanted to learn. The boost completely throws the VVE table off as Procharger doesn't have you change the MAP sensor, which is not setup for a boosted application.

As for not having a wideband, the only real way to know actual AFR is to have wideband. I wanted to know, the engine cost way too much not to know. Again just my opinion.

As I said, I've driven mine for over a year, no issues other than my exhaust tips being blackened after a single drive. The power gain is awesome. It is overly rich which keeps the cylinder temp down and keeps the piston rings happy, but is no where near optimized.

There is a guy on here that has Jannetty Racing, he knows way more than I do, maybe he will chime in, or you could reach out.

Hope this helps,
Ray

[cjperformance]

Thank you for the thorough response! What sources of information have you been looking into in regards to learning how to tune? I am interested in that aspect.

[Rallye Green Z]

I've been primarily using Goat Rope Garage on Youtube and I've also been asking questions on the HPTuners forum. But I've not started with my car. Instead I've been learning on my sons car (2010 Camaro LS3) that we just installed cam and headers. So I'm learning in an environment without boost and a little less risks in my view point. BTW, the RTD may let you log, but the RTD files are not modifiable that I've found. So I've bought a MVPI2 from HPtuners, downloaded the Procahrger tune from my car and will be starting from there.

Ray

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by Rallye Green Z

I've not started with my car. Instead I've been learning on my sons car

I like your thinking

[Rallye Green Z]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

I like your thinking

Yeah, his is the guinea pig...

[cjperformance]

Goat Rope Garage was helpful in explaining the difference between what would be available from the stock narrow band O2 sensors vs the wideband. Makes sense now. Basically the stock O2 are probably narrowband and basically binary, either reads rich or lean, where a wideband is going to be analog and give you the amount of richness or leanness.