[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Shock and Steel

I lifted a side of the car using the extra bracing, and it seemed fine. Thanks!



I finally finished my mini-spruce-up project on the ESCO 10499 stands. They look better now... good enough. The "before" pics are in post #23, and here are the after pics. I even replaced the chains that held the pins, because one pair was scratched from being painted, and the other pair was clumped up with powder-coating.

That looks really good. What paint did you end up going with?

[Shock and Steel]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

That looks really good. What paint did you end up going with?

I used Rustoleum Matte Nickel... since I am a novice when it comes to painting, I try to stick to matte finishes, because the imperfections are not as pronounced in matte finish as they are in gloss finish. Here is the link to what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MRQCCG...roduct_details

Also, this color is pretty close to the Esco painted (not powdercoated) 10499. There is definitely more than one version of the 10499 stand. Of the 2 pairs I received, one pair was powercoated, and the other was painted. Also, the spots where they welded the chain links to the tripod are different on the two versions (different by about 1.25").

[jollymon]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

Thanks guys, I appreciate the reassurance!

I actually have two low profile jacks and could lift both sides simultaneously if their was any possibility of damage using only one. But it would be more work, glad to hear it's not necessary.

That would have the car balancing on just those two points

Or is there enough evidence the car is balanced well enough fore-aft at those middle pinch weld lift points?

[Standard]

Pending Gen6 but not yet. . . .

I'm taking to heart:

"Do not combine ZL1 Jack pads and hockey pucks. Adding additional items between the car and jack increases the possibility of sliding off."

I have a Daytona DJ3000 3-ton - it's actually different to the others mechanically; but one big difference also is the 5" square rotating saddle, that I'm worried is too big to fit in the plastic gap in nay way, or if it is the contact with the pinch weld jack pad would not be on the center. The other "3 ton daytonas" have sub-4" flat saddles.

Any idea/thoughts on this? Presume the saddle can't be swapped out. . . does the job simply require a different jack/design?

[22SS1LE]

you need the lift pads. I have the Daytona jack and lift pads and Its super easy to get it up in the air to pull a wheel.
these are the ones i have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
if you dont want to install those you can use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universa...ve%2C85&sr=1-4

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Standard

Pending Gen6 but not yet. . . .

I'm taking to heart:

"Do not combine ZL1 Jack pads and hockey pucks. Adding additional items between the car and jack increases the possibility of sliding off."

I have a Daytona DJ3000 3-ton - it's actually different to the others mechanically; but one big difference also is the 5" square rotating saddle, that I'm worried is too big to fit in the plastic gap in nay way, or if it is the contact with the pinch weld jack pad would not be on the center. The other "3 ton daytonas" have sub-4" flat saddles.

Any idea/thoughts on this? Presume the saddle can't be swapped out. . . does the job simply require a different jack/design?

Like was mentioned, you need to get the lift pads then you won't have any clearance issues. I have the ZL1 Addons, but they look identical to the Amazon ones.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

Like was mentioned, you need to get the lift pads then you won't have any clearance issues. I have the ZL1 Addons, but they look identical to the Amazon ones.

Just to beat on the question (and for others/posterity I guess) - those lift pads extend down a good bit past the plastic, such that a large flat surface would not touch said plastic just hover under it, front and back?

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Standard

Just to beat on the question (and for others/posterity I guess) - those lift pads extend down a good bit past the plastic, such that a large flat surface would not touch said plastic just hover under it, front and back?

At least with my setup, the jackpad/jackstand does end up just touching the plastic. But not enough to damage anything. Believe me, I checked and triple checked

[Standard]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

At least with my setup, the jackpad/jackstand does end up just touching the plastic. But not enough to damage anything. Believe me, I checked and triple checked

I could see putting some car painting tape on there to avoid fear of scratching on a new car. That said, while there's a touching with the (shorter jack pads) on my Gen5, the plastic has 14 years of road-dirt hits on it so. . . not that sure what I'd be protecting

[jollymon]

Originally Posted by jollymon

That would have the car balancing on just those two points

Or is there enough evidence the car is balanced well enough fore-aft at those middle pinch weld lift points?

Bump, really curious about this. Are folks really able to safely lift the whole car from the two "middle" pinch-weld points? Pictures/evidence?

[haggler]

Originally Posted by jollymon

Bump, really curious about this. Are folks really able to safely lift the whole car from the two "middle" pinch-weld points? Pictures/evidence?

generally speaking you can do that, but I would do that for only the front and put on jack stands. After the front is stabilized, you can lift the entire rear from the steel cross brace on non-convertible cars.

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by haggler

generally speaking you can do that, but I would do that for only the front and put on jack stands. After the front is stabilized, you can lift the entire rear from the steel cross brace on non-convertible cars.

So it's confirmed we can use that steel brace to lift the back of the vehicle without damage? It would make it a lot easier to lift the rear, but I hesitated because it's not one of the "official" lift points recommended by Chevy.

[easttxss]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

So it's confirmed we can use that steel brace to lift the back of the vehicle without damage? It would make it a lot easier to lift the rear, but I hesitated because it's not one of the "official" lift points recommended by Chevy.

Yes, the rear cradle is pretty solid. I've jacked the rear up many times from that center location.

[haggler]

You can jack from those steel cross members on most cars. There's one on the front but its not exposed due to the air flow covers and what not, so I would not try that. The rear is essentially part of the sub frame and holding together the entire car. No problem doing that.