Engine Power is Reduced - Service Stabilitrak

[Awill]

does anyone know if there is anything to help prevent this??

[knownbutunknown]

I had the same problem at 23k miles. I was driving from dc to California and the car starting stalling on the highway until it came to a complete stop. I had to have the car towed to the nearest dealer somewhere in Georgia. The stabilitrak light popped on and the dealer said it was the throttle body. I had a sleep over and the part had to be ordered. The light still comes on from time to time.

[slpzl575]

My 2010 2SS/RS is at 4650 miles (very low) and this started to happen as of today, has done it twice today as a matter of fact. It felt as if I had the biggest baddest cam in the motor because it was shaking so bad. Stabilitrak light as well as the check engine light and the engine power is reduced showed up. I was freakin out!! It was just dynod and tuned to get a check engine light off that was a P code for running too rich. Not sure if this now is happening after the dyno was now completed, it may just be a real bad coincidence but who knows. I went back to the trunk and took off the negative battery terminal to re set the ECU, it worked and then 15 minutes later it did it again. I repeated the above step again and all was good for the rest of today. I just am now untrusting to drive her and have this happen again! Depending on where you are at in the street, this could really suck because the car can hardly be driven.

[derklug]

Why the STABILITRACK light comes on, and new throttle bodies.

Newer cars with traction control use engine management, brakes , and the transmission to control the vehicle. When you get into a traction event, the Stabilitrack will go through numerous strategies to help you maintain control. When the ECM detects a problem with systems that the Stabilitrack uses to control traction, both the Check Engine and the Stabilitrack light will come on. The Stabilitrack light will also come on if there is a problem with the ABS.

Modern throttle bodies actually have 4 TPS sensors. Two are on the throttle pedal, they give the input to the ECM to tell the engine how much GO you want. Two sensors are used so that they can compare readings so a failure doesn't result in a wide open throttle.
The throttle body has two sensors and an electric motor that runs the throttle. The ECM receives your input from the throttle pedal, runs all of it's calculations, and decides what throttle position it wants. It then activates the motor in the throttle body until it reaches the position that it wants. If there is a failure in the sensors in the throttle body, it will set a code, and you are going slow.

Hope this helps you understand why the Stabilitrack light comes on.

[Explit Player]

Only 45k mi..... wat.



My moms daily driver for 12 years has 63k miles on it. And she works every day except sunday and wednesday

[RSCHRIS]

Yeah , I have a 2010 2SS/RS with only 61000 miles and I'm getting this service statablitrac message the car goes from shanking bad to smoothing out. If cruising on the freeway it seems to fall on it's face if I stomp on the gas pedal. Can't wait to get to the dealer and see what they tell me. This is getting old already.

[Chevrolet Customer Svc]

Originally Posted by RSCHRIS

Yeah , I have a 2010 2SS/RS with only 61000 miles and I'm getting this service statablitrac message the car goes from shanking bad to smoothing out. If cruising on the freeway it seems to fall on it's face if I stomp on the gas pedal. Can't wait to get to the dealer and see what they tell me. This is getting old already.

Hi RSCHRIS,

I am sincerely sorry to hear you are having stabilitrac concerns in your Camaro and can understand how frustrating this can be. I would be happy to reach out to your dealership on your behalf to offer an extra layer of support. If you are interested, please send us a private message along with your VIN, mileage, contact information and involved dealer.

Kindly,

Kaylee D.
Chevrolet Customer Care

[speedygonzales]

Originally Posted by RSCHRIS

Yeah , I have a 2010 2SS/RS with only 61000 miles and I'm getting this service statablitrac message the car goes from shanking bad to smoothing out. If cruising on the freeway it seems to fall on it's face if I stomp on the gas pedal. Can't wait to get to the dealer and see what they tell me. This is getting old already.

Did you happen to notice this thread hasn't been updated for over a year and half? At least the CSR responded to you and your 5yr power train warranty might still be in effect

[woodside783]

It has happened a few times the last few weeks and today it did it and the tack did not work.

[Dyk-NO]

exact same problem I had on my 2010 v6 before, only had it for a year and that shit happened. dealer is playing stupid and would only clear the codes off my car and send me home until it just shut off on me on the highway.

I am lucky that a customer service rep from Chevrolet messaged me personally here and immediately called my local dealer and ordered a full tear down check on my car.

They happen to find a couple of wires peeled off from the steering column and the car doesnt recognize this error so it just end up shutting the engine power down. this is not common Im really surprised they havent called a recall on electronic wiring problems because Ive seen a lot here with the similar problems.

Hope you get yours fixed.

[woodside783]

Did a manual swap over the winter had not had any problems till we went to the track. Going to look under the dash been under the car everything is connected.

[JSure83]

I just had this happen to me not even an hour ago. I was getting on the freeway, and since it's Sunday night, I wanted to have a bit of fun. So I turned off traction and stability. As I went from 3rd to 4th, the car jolted pretty hard, the tires chirped, and the whole dash lit up (service engine light, stability, traction, and that squirrelly tire mark light are all staying on consistently). Engine power is cut, and the dash is saying to service stability.

The only major difference from my situation compared to many of yours is that I was pressing the car pretty hard. Not over the top, but just having some fun with fast accelerations. I drive a 2015 LS1 and it doesn't even have 6k miles on it, no mods. All the dash menu sensors (other than the dash lights) show everything is normal and good to go, nothing is rattling, nothing leaking and the car still rides fine. But I can't get on a freeway faster than 30 mph, which is outrageous and unsafe (considering that I have to drive freeway for work).

Anyway, I plan to check plugs and wires, but since the car is under the extended 6-year 100k warranty that I bought, I should be covered. However, if it's something simple for me to fix, I don't wanna waste time driving to the dealership. I don't have access to a code reader, but I can drive to an AutoZone or something if needed. If you guys think it'd be best to just take it to the dealership, then that's what I'll have to do.

[Red2014SS]

Originally Posted by JSure83

I just had this happen to me not even an hour ago. I was getting on the freeway, and since it's Sunday night, I wanted to have a bit of fun. So I turned off traction and stability. As I went from 3rd to 4th, the car jolted pretty hard, the tires chirped, and the whole dash lit up (service engine light, stability, traction, and that squirrelly tire mark light are all staying on consistently). Engine power is cut, and the dash is saying to service stability.

The only major difference from my situation compared to many of yours is that I was pressing the car pretty hard. Not over the top, but just having some fun with fast accelerations. I drive a 2015 LS1 and it doesn't even have 6k miles on it, no mods. All the dash menu sensors (other than the dash lights) show everything is normal and good to go, nothing is rattling, nothing leaking and the car still rides fine. But I can't get on a freeway faster than 30 mph, which is outrageous and unsafe (considering that I have to drive freeway for work).

Anyway, I plan to check plugs and wires, but since the car is under the extended 6-year 100k warranty that I bought, I should be covered. However, if it's something simple for me to fix, I don't wanna waste time driving to the dealership. I don't have access to a code reader, but I can drive to an AutoZone or something if needed. If you guys think it'd be best to just take it to the dealership, then that's what I'll have to do.

If you can get to Autozone and pull the code, do it. That will give you an idea of what caused the problem. Then you can disconnect the battery and let the car sit for a few minutes. Reconnect the battery and see if the problem goes away. It most likely will. Then go fix whatever happened or take it to the dealer when you get time.

[woodside783]

The only difference is the car has never lost power when doing this.