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Old 10-24-2020, 01:53 PM   #127
Getnlwr
 
Drives: '21 ZL1 A10 '08 SRT10
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Interesting to read this. The setscrew on mine had about 3/4 of a turn in preload on it. I backed it off till it touched them gave it a 1/16 turn to put a small amount of pressure on it.
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:07 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by Getnlwr View Post
Interesting to read this. The setscrew on mine had about 3/4 of a turn in preload on it. I backed it off till it touched them gave it a 1/16 turn to put a small amount of pressure on it.
.....and?????
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:20 PM   #129
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Haven’t had a dry day to do any Full boost testing. Yet.
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:57 AM   #130
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Haven’t had a dry day to do any Full boost testing. Yet.
Ah, Washington. I feel for you. Family lived in Mt.Vernon for like 20 years. I don't miss all the gloomy overcast a bit. I'll stay in Bangkok. At least if the sun doesn't smile here, There's tons of Thai women that do.
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Old 11-02-2020, 08:28 PM   #131
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Sadly Washington just seems to always be gloomy and is filled with angry women.

In was hoping to get to throttle it today and instead it’s at the dealership under warranty. Again. ****.
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:17 PM   #132
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Bull shit
Did the stuff when it appeared on this forum 2 years ago
1/4 of turn for mine
Absolutely no difference
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Old 11-14-2020, 08:14 PM   #133
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Great thread. In my case I checked mine and the set screw had a burr and is not flat against the angled metal hinge. The action felt hung up against the set screw. The hinge if suddenly released would bend and bind. I created some gap and used a fingernail file to deburr the back of the set screw. Then added a little preload = 1/8 turn. If I did not add the preload it felt again as if it were getting hung up. Thinking the butterfly was getting hung up by going "too far".

Edit: the system is completely open at idle. Wondering how this would affect anything but full throttle/boost. The hinge is gouged due to use so I do think it was getting hung up from time to time.
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Last edited by wakespeak; 11-14-2020 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 11-15-2020, 04:09 AM   #134
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Bull shit
Did the stuff when it appeared on this forum 2 years ago
1/4 of turn for mine
Absolutely no difference
OK, That tell me that I'll look at it, but probably not mess with it, especially since I've seen more people say the same. However, I will look to see how far the screw seems to keep the valve open. Just want to make sure it's not way too far open.
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Old 12-17-2020, 10:49 PM   #135
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Per Cosworth I had 12.18-12.47psi boost vs about 1 psi lower before adjustment and removal of plastic "guard". Worth about 8 mph on the back straight at COTA. Not sure if it was not air temp. Rotated about 1/8th turn (slight).
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Old 12-17-2020, 10:55 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by Getnlwr View Post
Sadly Washington just seems to always be gloomy and is filled with angry women.

In was hoping to get to throttle it today and instead it’s at the dealership under warranty. Again. ****.

I did get to do a run with it before it's back in under warrenty for the 5th time. It ran strong. Seemed to be slightly higher pressure per the gauge. maybe a half or full PSI.
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Old 12-18-2020, 10:11 AM   #137
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Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr View Post
Bull shit
Did the stuff when it appeared on this forum 2 years ago
1/4 of turn for mine
Absolutely no difference
I mean, these cars don't make a ton of boost to begin with. Most won't see any change unless the set screw was not installed properly to begin with. Doesn't mean it's not worth investigating and adjusting to optimal engagement.
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Old 02-28-2021, 08:34 PM   #138
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OK, I'm bringing this thread back. Because as you all know I just pulled the supercharger. And in doing so, I loosened up the vacuum piece that opens the supercharger. and when I loosened it up low and behold, the vacuum boost module didn't line up with the bolt holes. Mine is 1/4th the bolt holes out of alignment. Which means that the module is already pressing the valve shut long before there is no vacuum. and I can certainly feel it once the bolts were loosened. So what does this mean? Logical thinking would say that you have vacuum long before the valve is opened taking away a critical jump on the accelerator. It would also say that when you are cruising at a particular speed and only a small amount of vacuum is created (for example you have CC on while you're highway driving), the "Boost valve" isn't going to open with small fluctuations in vacuum. Logic will also tell you that you might save some fuel if you're kept out of boost without reason. Now I'm an amateur with this car. But this thread caused a lot of people to check the "stop" position. However, unscrewing it will really show you what's happening. Cause once you do loosen the screws, it presses against you pretty hard.
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Old 02-28-2021, 08:35 PM   #139
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OK, I'm bringing this thread back. Because as you all know I just pulled the supercharger. And in doing so, I loosened up the vacuum piece that opens the supercharger. and when I loosened it up low and behold, the vacuum boost module didn't line up with the bolt holes. Mine is 1/4th the bolt holes out of alignment. Which means that the module is already pressing the valve shut long before there is no vacuum. and I can certainly feel it once the bolts were loosened. So what does this mean? Logical thinking would say that you have vacuum long before the valve is opened taking away a critical jump on the accelerator. It would also say that when you are cruising at a particular speed and only a small amount of vacuum is created (for example you have CC on while you're highway driving), the "Boost valve" isn't going to open with small fluctuations in vacuum. Logic will also tell you that you might save some fuel if you're kept out of boost without reason. Now I'm an amateur with this car. But this thread caused a lot of people to check the "stop" position. However, unscrewing it will really show you what's happening. Cause once you do loosen the screws, it presses against you pretty hard.
and the photo..... I don't know how to upload photo without replying. I'm computer literate, but not much as displayed by my lack of ability.
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Old 03-01-2021, 07:34 AM   #140
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I think vacuum is what pulls the valve open. At least on my 2650 (which I know isn't an apples-to-apples comparison), when the engine isn't running, the valve is shut, and there is a good deal of pressure pushing the bypass closed. However, when the engine is idling, the bypass is open.

So I'd probably try to carefully align it to where it was exerting pressure, engine "OFF", and make sure it's opening, engine "ON". I'd also make necessary finite adjustments with the bypass screw.

Or upgrade to 2650

See if you can align the bracket to the witness marks left by the original fasteners. Usually - bolts leave friction marks after you remove them. Maybe aligning the bracket to where it puts the witness marks under the bolt heads will get you close.
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