[ss2fast4u]

Will these provide better dry warm weather traction vs the run flats?

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by ss2fast4u

Will these provide better dry warm weather traction vs the run flats?

Will test them once said dry warm weather finally comes our way. The stockers weren't bad for a non-boosted SS, once they heat up, they do grip, my problem was they took forever to do so. But then I'm just a noob, plus I don't want to drive like a total douche on the street to put heat in them faster.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by ss2fast4u

Will these provide better dry warm weather traction vs the run flats?

They do seem to be somewhat better than the runflats were.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

The only downside I see with 285/35/20 tires compared to stock is it will be a bit taller (by 0.28 inches) and speedometer would be off by 1%.

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

I went with PS4S stock sizes on the stock wheels. 245 front and 275 rear. Seems to me that the 275s are slightly taller already than the 275 runflats (speedo seems to read touch lower) so going to the 285 might screw up the speedomter more than people are expecting. Nominal sizes are one thing, differences in how manufacturers make the tires result in differences in the true size of the tire.

The speedo read a little high with the stock tires, so I may have just corrected it towards the actual speed. If I have time and don't forget, I'll try a GPS or milestone counting test.

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Haole

I have a question. I went to my local Costco to inquire about the Michelin ps4s and the technician told me I would need to speak to the manager before they would even consider ordering these tires for me.

The reason being I currently have run flats and the Michelin's aren't.
I was baffled they would turn down a sale of about $1,400.
My other question is- There shouldn't be a problem with these tires other than if I get a flat I shouldn't drive on them?
(which to me is common sense).
Mahalo in advance

I just went through a similar thing at Costco getting a quote for PS4s to fit my MRR M017 1LE replica wheels. The problem was they will only go a small percentage difference from an OEM size. They still gave me a quote that I took to Discount Tire for a price match. I ended up getting 275/35/20 for the fronts and 295/35/20 for the rear. Since I am not going to lower I wanted to fill up the wheel wells better and not sure I would like the very thin looking sidewalls on the 1LE OEM sizes.

I'm planning on having this done today but it snowed overnight.

Bill

[rshelar]

Changing wheels and tires on Wednesday.
Staying stock on the front to avoid any issues but going 295/35 with a 10” wheel on the rear. Also to close some of that gap that’s apparent in the rear. Always remember that when you change one dimension on a tire size, all others are affected.



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[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by rshelar

Changing wheels and tires on Wednesday.
Staying stock on the front to avoid any issues but going 295/35 with a 10” wheel on the rear. Also to close some of that gap that’s apparent in the rear. Always remember that when you change one dimension on a tire size, all others are affected.

Here's the thing, though, this way you are changing the rear/front circumference ratio by +1.96%, and flipping it from below 1 to above 1, which may also be important.

Not knowing exactly how the stabilitrak algorithms work, it's a bit of a crapshoot. Maybe two percent is nothing to them, but since we don't know, I'd still go up a notch (245/40 to 255/40) with the front tires as well to minimize the risk.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Here's the thing, though, this way you are changing the rear/front circumference ratio by +1.96%, and flipping it from below 1 to above 1, which may also be important.

Not knowing exactly how the stabilitrak algorithms work, it's a bit of a crapshoot. Maybe two percent is nothing to them, but since we don't know, I'd still go up a notch (245/40 to 255/40) with the front tires as well to minimize the risk.

Seems to me that going smaller diameter on the rear without doing the same on the front is what makes the computer mad. I have used a 305/45-17 rear tire (28.1" dia), changing only the rear tires, and the computer did not seem to care that the rears were now taller than the fronts. Tried a 275/40-17 rear (26" dia), again changing only the rears, and then the computer got really mad. Car almost stopped, lights flashing on dashboard, so I ended up turning the stabilitrack off (7 to 10 second hold of traction control button) to drive it. Using a 26" front tire with the 26" rear tire, the computer then seems to 'feel better'.

I'd guess that the algorithm interprets the rear wheels spinning quicker than the fronts (which happens with a smaller diameter only in the rear) as traction loss and gets mad. The algorithm does not seem to care though when the rear tires are spinning slower than the fronts (which happens when only the rear tires are made taller). The computer's stabilitrack system is getting wheel speed from the ABS sensors.

[Redlinez]

Originally Posted by Mark114

On the OEM SS wheels you can go up one size to 255/40R20 and 285/35R20 per the Michelin specs.

I ordered these through Discount Tire about a year ago and have had zero issues. They had no issue installing them either. I carry a small air compressor and good tire plug kit.
I would say the turn in was a little better on the Goodyears on track, but that's it. They're better in every other way. It was dangerous to drive in rain on the Goodyears.

[rshelar]

This is right on. I stayed stock on front, went 295 on the rear but on a 10” wheel. Got my wheels from Discount. They had the best deal


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[arpad_m]

Good weather is taking forever to arrive here, but I did put in a few more tests in the meantime with the new PS4S tires that, by the way, still drive perfectly in cold or wet or warm.

With a little heat in them and a bit of throttle modulation they do grip well---purposefully easing into WOT after a short rollout no longer just spins, the tires hook with short chirps at the 2-3 and 3-4 WOT shifts, and the car takes off the way it's expected to at my power level (560/540 rwhp/rwtq). I'm very happy with this purchase.

[SS2017_MJB]

Originally Posted by 4door65guy

I am gonna replace the stock good years within the next few weeks and I have already decided I am gonna switch to the PS4S. These will be mounted on my stock SS rims should I stick with stock sizes or has anyone went up in size with these tires and had no issues like rubbing? Thanks in advance guys and gals!

I am late in the response thread but I will offer my 3 cents on the subject since I replaced the stock OEM rims and tires with Michelin PS4's all around in staggered mode. Application is 2017 Camaro SS coupe with Eibach ProKit lower springs, BMR rear and front suspension parts, ZL1 front and rear antiroll bars, BMR bushings, GeForce aluminum driveshaft, GeForce 850Hp half shafts. Engine upgraded with Procharger P1X Stage 2 Intercooler and Kooks full length headers into Borla S exhaust. HP tuned. Dyno'd at 565 RWHP/575 RWTQ.

Replaced rims with MRR 017 1LE emulation gloss black in 10" front and 11" rears purchased at Phastek for reasonable set price of $1,400. The wider rims allow for more rubber on pavement to enhance handling plus translate more HP to road since I have a boosted vehicle. The MRR 017 have +25 offset front and +43 offset rear which helps on placement of 285/30-20 front and 305/30-20 rear Michelins which I purchased at Tire Rack. I had the set mounted locally, using TPMS purchased via GM Parts Direct, and force balanced.

The good news is the handling is awesome. The so-so news is that for a forced induction vehicle - the PS4 will spin all thru 1st and 2nd etc under really heavy throttle. For a NA car, the additional size and higher quality rubber would noticeably reduce spin off the dig--much less so than the OEM.

Excepting for drag strip applications and serious autocross/track -- I think the MRR/PS4 combo is superb for lively street driving.

[NewCamaroOrder]

IMHO The stock Goodyear run flats are junk. The super stiff sidewall does not communicate when the tire is starting to brake loose, the sidewall also makes the ride unreasonably stiff, and I found the traction was terrible, even after a full 1LE suspension upgrade. At just over 10,000 miles the right rear tire tread separated during a high speed freeway interchange.

I switched to the PS4S and couldn't be happier. Better ride, communication, and traction. By the cars G-meter I've pulled over 1 G in a turn during real world driving. That impressed me for this price range tire. I have almost 20,000 miles on the PS4S and they still look and hook well. When they give up, I plan to buy another set.

Of course everyone's experience may vary.