[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Thanks so much everyone for posting such useful information. Gotta' love this forum!

My goal is to stay below 7 PSI for running it as safe as I can, considering the high C/R and problematic ring-lands.
Even if I forgo 20-30 WHP, it is not the end of the world for me, mainly because I do not intend to drag the car, only want it to be faster on the street than the stock NA setup.
If I can make 530 WHP on 93 straight (no E85) at under 7 PSI (the lower the better), upgrading to the LT4 injectors and HPFP as well, I am going to be happy

You should be able to achieve your h.p. goals without upgrading the hpfp & injectors.

[EDFHOBBIES]

MY wifes SS w eforce was quicker roll racing than my stock z1.. not off the line or in the qtr because traction issues the zl1 just has better traction period even with nannies off using same tires..

the eforce dynoed 581 to 610 hp with headers and intake depending on the shop my zl1 dynoed 551 hp.. I did lower, headers, and intake to my z now I'm dynoing 644 to 659.. she loses now!

these were 3rd to 3rd runs!

https://youtu.be/iIEQpsTiHpQ

hopefully this helps yall argument lol..


Personally I'd want the blower that moves the most air the most efficiently..

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

You should be able to achieve your h.p. goals without upgrading the hpfp & injectors.

Yes, but I would like to be as close as possible to the stock LT4 setup - Including fueling. Just to be on the safer side. Especially since I remain with higher C/R and no kind of forged internals as the LT4 has.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by DatBrotato

you could easily achieve these numbers with full bolt-ons and a cam, keep the reliability of a N/A motor, and never worry about IATs or going lean for whatever reason.
Port the heads & go E85 and you'll have 550+
Just throwing that out there..

How street-able would such cam be? Rough idle?
I don't want to install headers / touch the stock NPP in any way.
I cannot rely on steady E85 supply in my area, so it must be 93

What would the numbers be in such case? I don't think more than 460-470 WHP tops.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Thanks so much everyone for posting such useful information. Gotta' love this forum!

My goal is to stay below 7 PSI for running it as safe as I can, considering the high C/R and problematic ring-lands.
Even if I forgo 20-30 WHP, it is not the end of the world for me, mainly because I do not intend to drag the car, only want it to be faster on the street than the stock NA setup.
If I can make 530 WHP on 93 straight (no E85) at under 7 PSI (the lower the better), upgrading to the LT4 injectors and HPFP as well, I am going to be happy

Yeah, I started out the same way with 5psi @540whp, then 7 psi @570whp...then pulled the damn engine forged internals and started upping boost 705whp@8psi and three more smaller pulleys on the way. Just take this as your warning...you may become addicted.

[Snowblind]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

I know it has been discussed many times, however, I feel I need further reassurance (towards plans to upgrade to a PD unit) from the experienced professionals, since I am new to GM engines and especially V8s (I have been working with VAG 4 Cyl. Turbo motors for the past 20 years).

If someone were not to steadily beat on the motor, using it as a DD and only pushing it occasionally, would the stock RA with stock C/R be expected to hold boosted power ~ 8-9 PSI max (I.E. reaching 550-580 WHP on 93) for about the same life of the stock motor?
Fueling would also be upgraded to LT4 parts.
Average ambient temperatures and humidity levels similar to Florida.

I did quite a bit of homework and was soo close to doing exactly what you want to do but I got bit by the NA bug instead. Seeing that you come from a turbo background the general rule of thumb is the same, every lb of boost is equal to the weeks of satisfaction before you want more (7lbs=7 weeks and then your looking to pulley down). I loved the ADM kit that was available but knowing me, I would want more eventually so I probably would have went the Maggie route...more cfm and larger cooling bricks too.

Good luck with whatever you choose and please keep us posted. If you do go the 1.7 route and get itchy for more, you could probably get a flex sensor and go e50 or so and get the benefits of ethanol.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Snowblind

I did quite a bit of homework and was soo close to doing exactly what you want to do but I got bit by the NA bug instead. Seeing that you come from a turbo background the general rule of thumb is the same, every lb of boost is equal to the weeks of satisfaction before you want more (7lbs=7 weeks and then your looking to pulley down). I loved the ADM kit that was available but knowing me, I would want more eventually so I probably would have went the Maggie route...more cfm and larger cooling bricks too.

Good luck with whatever you choose and please keep us posted. If you do go the 1.7 route and get itchy for more, you could probably get a flex sensor and go e50 or so and get the benefits of ethanol.

So true. It is never enough. I managed close to 450 WHP from a 1.8 L Turbo upping only to forged Pauter rods and proper fueling. The engine held its entire life (until today BtW with its new owner) - 15 years so far. Not too shabby I guess.
The easy thing about the LT4 setup in my case, is not only the convenience of (hopefully) not having to get into the motor (to replace I.E. Pistons / Rods), but the fact that it is mostly an external bolt on type of job + an "official" GM setup out of the factory.
In my local circumstances it is usually preferable to have a OEM-like appearance to when it becomes necessary to pop up the hood, in order to check what is underneath....None of the aftermarket stuff caters for such a requirement.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Yes, but I would like to be as close as possible to the stock LT4 setup - Including fueling. Just to be on the safer side. Especially since I remain with higher C/R and no kind of forged internals as the LT4 has.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528126

Here is a good read...I was wrong, ADM made 600whp with only 5psi and e85. With that low of boost, I bet your engine would live the same life as if it was na. That is the reason why I push e85...make more power with less boost and the LT1 lives happily ever after. Either way you would still be fine with 93 on 7-8psi. Any more boost then that and I would look at a bigger blower.

[DatBrotato]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

How street-able would such cam be? Rough idle?
I don't want to install headers / touch the stock NPP in any way.
I cannot rely on steady E85 supply in my area, so it must be 93

What would the numbers be in such case? I don't think more than 460-470 WHP tops.

In that case with a medium cam you'd be ~500rwhp with just a cam & CAI. On the plus side this would keep you from catching the F/I bug.

The idle & drive-ability will entirely depend on the tune. Mine had one of the largest available for stock cubes and nearly drove like stock.

If retaining your warranty is the main motivator to keeping an "oem appearance" keep in mind you'll need to get a tune for whatever F/I you go with..

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528126

Here is a good read...I was wrong, ADM made 600whp with only 5psi and e85. With that low of boost, I bet your engine would live the same life as if it was na. That is the reason why I push e85...make more power with less boost and the LT1 lives happily ever after. Either way you would still be fine with 93 on 7-8psi. Any more boost then that and I would look at a bigger blower.

That is actually an awesome idea. I think if I had it to do over again I'd stick with my stock pulley.. Do the full fuel upgrades and run E85 and call it a day. I'm sure my IAT's would be cooler too!.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by DatBrotato

If retaining your warranty is the main motivator to keeping an "oem appearance" keep in mind you'll need to get a tune for whatever F/I you go with..

Its clear that I would have to give up the Warranty the moment I had any kind of tune flashed on the ECM. Once I mod, this point is clear.
There are other reasons for the necessity / preference for a "stock-OEM Appearance" under the hood in my locality.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

How street-able would such cam be? Rough idle?
I don't want to install headers / touch the stock NPP in any way.
I cannot rely on steady E85 supply in my area, so it must be 93

What would the numbers be in such case? I don't think more than 460-470 WHP tops.

The rough idle blower cam, like I have from JRE, is very street-able. In fact, the it drives like stock, but has a nice sound when it is idling. I don't think any of the blower cams will be that obnoxious.

I was also like you, wanted to stay away from headers. It just turned out that with opening up the intake side of things, I had to do something to get the air out...so LT's where necessary. Of course, once you are that far into the motor, it's not difficult to add a set of drop in rods/pistons, etc. The story never ends.

My guess is that I will have my car running about 800-830whp by the end of the month. . .which has caused me to start contemplating winter modifications to make sure I support the power safely. I think I will be there on 11-12psi

Good luck with your decision and looking forward to seeing the results.

If you look up some of my posts, I have video of the JRE rough idle cam.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

The rough idle blower cam, like I have from JRE, is very street-able. In fact, the it drives like stock, but has a nice sound when it is idling. I don't think any of the blower cams will be that obnoxious.

I was also like you, wanted to stay away from headers. It just turned out that with opening up the intake side of things, I had to do something to get the air out...so LT's where necessary. Of course, once you are that far into the motor, it's not difficult to add a set of drop in rods/pistons, etc. The story never ends.

My guess is that I will have my car running about 800-830whp by the end of the month. . .which has caused me to start contemplating winter modifications to make sure I support the power safely. I think I will be there on 11-12psi

Good luck with your decision and looking forward to seeing the results.

If you look up some of my posts, I have video of the JRE rough idle cam.

800+ WHP indeed begins to be "serious territory" and a very cool goal to achieve at 11 PSI
This as you correctly states, necessitates at least dropping in a set of pistons.
Aaron of GPI recommends rods as well... since they tend to bend even so slightly under heavy torque at such boost levels.
For me, I am looking to avoid having to get into the engine and this is why under 7 PSI is my goal. Currently, ADM's solution (Hardware + Tune + Support) is the #1 option on my list.

[SDG23]

I know this has been covered, but my goal is 600 to the wheels, nothing crazy but a decent bump up. Will the stock SS fuel system hold up? I hear a lot of numbers but in general I hear 600rwhp is about it for the stock SS fuel system, does this sound about right? Thinking of going with a Maggie 2300, I already have a ported TB and RotoFab dry intake so I'm thinking an 85mm pulley should get me there.