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Old 08-17-2018, 10:31 AM   #15
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Well, having a masters in electronic engineering for the last 42 years, + stands for positive 12VDC and - stands for 0VDC aka Ground.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Well, having a masters in electronic engineering for the last 42 years, + stands for positive 12VDC and - stands for 0VDC aka Ground.
Fair enough! It's been a few years since I've been in an electronics class. :-) I just assumed they were using +/- to show the orientation.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:58 AM   #17
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That was the point what baffled me because fuses don't have orientations, you can put them in either way. All good.
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Old 08-17-2018, 11:10 AM   #18
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I think it's more for the orientation of the entire tap, because it looks like the white wire has to be inserted at a specific connection. I guess I'll find out when my parts arrive and I try to do this next week. haha!

I've also been studying this thread, as the pictures of the actual install make it much easier to understand.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...control&page=2
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:16 PM   #19
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Got my relay and tap all setup, went to install it, and found that I have two issues. The first, is that there is a relay right next to where the tap goes. Does anyone know if I can rotate the tap 180 degrees? The second issue is that all unused sockets do not have connectors that I can use for the ground. There are only two that have a blade connector that are circled in red, but no idea if this is a ground or not.

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Old 08-23-2018, 01:21 AM   #20
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the relay next to it can be removed. its for the ZL1 intercooler water pump. I removed it My SS. to ground you need to put a ring terminal on it to the ground stud on the outside of the fuse box. The same place you would jump it from.
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Old 08-23-2018, 05:59 AM   #21
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the relay next to it can be removed. its for the ZL1 intercooler water pump. I removed it My SS. to ground you need to put a ring terminal on it to the ground stud on the outside of the fuse box. The same place you would jump it from.
I see. I was wondering why there was a relay for a "coolant pump" when the water pump is belt driven. Any chance I can use whatever pin is the ground for that relay instead of going outside the box?

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Old 08-23-2018, 01:27 PM   #22
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At best, this switches the valves from 'Auto' to Open. I'm still looking for a system that offers full manual control of the valves - Like I want to force them closed, as well as force them open.
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Old 08-23-2018, 10:57 PM   #23
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At best, this switches the valves from 'Auto' to Open. I'm still looking for a system that offers full manual control of the valves - Like I want to force them closed, as well as force them open.
set your exhaust to stealth. then it will be open or closed.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:33 PM   #24
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Anyone looking for the kit to do this mod? I installed it and it works as described, but I didn't like the fact that it defaults to open at each startup, which requires the remote to set it back to the factory mode. Just looking to get a few bucks back rather than have this sit around, so PM me if interested.

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Old 08-27-2018, 10:06 PM   #25
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set your exhaust to stealth. then it will be open or closed.


Yeah, not quite. Stealth basically means F all past 5% throttle demand.


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Old 08-27-2018, 11:05 PM   #26
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what? stealth in mine keeps the valves closed 100% of the time o to 100% throttle
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:07 PM   #27
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what? stealth in mine keeps the valves closed 100% of the time o to 100% throttle


My car is loud af no matter what the valves are supposed to be doing. Only time it is quiet is under very light throttle.


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Old 11-22-2018, 04:04 PM   #28
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I was looking to do this with a Normally closed switch like this:

O'plaza ŪDc 12V 10A Relay RF Wireless Remote Control Receiver Momentary Switch (12V 1 Channel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8V4KQ4..._1DY9BbS6SDXQT

The same as what’s in the pic in this thread, but I notice it’s only rated for 10amps
But the standard fuse for
Npp is 15 amps,
Will this cause problems?
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