[Evansa22]

I would imagine it just needs to be tuned as your pushing a good amount of more air in and out. Could be throttle closure, really need to get a log to have an idea what's going on. I have headers back to stock npp just so I can put it on silent if I want to fly under the radar. I also went with the magnaflow xpipe muffler

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Did you do the resonated version of the AWE Touring catback? I did, and my car was still biblically loud with the 2” headers. A good number of us on this board added a Magnaflow x-pipe center muffler to tame it down based on a thread started by @Sakudog if you want to do a search.

Thanks Josh, Ill look into that... I'll give this a little time but im sure ill want to change something. Oh, and YES i got the resonated version.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

I would imagine it just needs to be tuned as your pushing a good amount of more air in and out. Could be throttle closure, really need to get a log to have an idea what's going on. I have headers back to stock npp just so I can put it on silent if I want to fly under the radar. I also went with the magnaflow xpipe muffler

Makes sense... i'll disconnect the battery again, and try to put a few more easy miles on it. Perhaps i should have waited a little longer, as i just hit 550 miles... based on the break-in process ive read, maybe not a good idea to do a bunch of WOT pulls before 1,500 miles?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Did you do the resonated version of the AWE Touring catback? I did, and my car was still biblically loud with the 2” headers. A good number of us on this board added a Magnaflow x-pipe center muffler to tame it down based on a thread started by @Sakudog if you want to do a search.

I second this. I did the same and now under full throttle its still loud but not obnoxiously loud.

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Makes sense... i'll disconnect the battery again, and try to put a few more easy miles on it. Perhaps i should have waited a little longer, as i just hit 550 miles... based on the break-in process ive read, maybe not a good idea to do a bunch of WOT pulls before 1,500 miles?

Personally I followed the break in procedure to 1500 miles. Oil changed at 500 and 1500. Also changed diff at 1500 miles. Probably not a good idea like you said to go WOT before 1500 but to each their own, its your car.

[synolimit]

from experience the motor does matter for NVH. had poly mounts on a wrx and your brain shook with violence!! had solid mounts on a 370z and you felt nothing vs OEM! the VQ was just smooth!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Thanks for the feedback guys... I just spoke to JRE and ordered his Low Side Voltage Booster and remote tuning Kit.



I will put some more easy miles on the car while I wait, and will find out in the next month or so if these mounts are causing KR.... fingers crossed.

[Firecaptain]

Anyone with an A10 installed the mounts?


I'm thinking this mod would actually be "better" and more noticeable on manual cars(?)
Thanks

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by synolimit

from experience the motor does matter for NVH. had poly mounts on a wrx and your brain shook with violence!! had solid mounts on a 370z and you felt nothing vs OEM! the VQ was just smooth!

Had solid custom made 56 Billet Alum Motor Mounts made for my 02 Modded RX-7. It changed everything, from everything kept breaking to Everything was Rock solid and nothing ever broke again until I sold her. Rotaries aren't really violent anyways, but I loved how it became more reliable...... Now, after spending over an hour reading every single post on this thread. With these new Aussie headers I have, that I'm getting ready to install, I'm convinced that I would like these motor mounts as well. I'll be buying the 10's this week. That way when I get the headers, I will have a much better chance of them just dropping in without a hassle. Thank you all for all your documentation.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

By the way, it was BMR selling the numbers.... Copied from their site selling the 10's.......

The MM010 weighs over 50-percent less than the factory engine mounts.. When performance is a must, rely on BMR Suspension!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Firecaptain

Anyone with an A10 installed the mounts?


I'm thinking this mod would actually be "better" and more noticeable on manual cars(?)
Thanks

I think I posted my feedback on another thread. These mounts not only made my headers super easy to install with all the extra space, but they seem to make the engine feel more responsive. No noticeable vibration for negatives aside from them being tricky to install because removing the old ones sucks. Also I have had ZERO KR... which was my biggest concern.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

I guess since I'm ordering the BMR MMounts, I might as well get the cradle lock outs since its from the same company and I'll have the exhaust off. I can't believe I have to buy these damn TTY bolts though. Never heard of such a thing until I got this car.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

I think I posted my feedback on another thread. These mounts not only made my headers super easy to install with all the extra space, but they seem to make the engine feel more responsive. No noticeable vibration for negatives aside from them being tricky to install because removing the old ones sucks. Also I have had ZERO KR... which was my biggest concern.

Awesome

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Firecaptain

Anyone with an A10 installed the mounts?


I'm thinking this mod would actually be "better" and more noticeable on manual cars(?)
Thanks

I have the auto. It will be about a month or 2, but I'll let you know.