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Old 05-24-2021, 10:46 PM   #29
Baddawg53
 
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6
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I've read that post, has me worried about the seats and valves in my heads, as well as the rest of the valve train. I'll have it apart soon and take a good look at them.
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Old 08-05-2021, 11:21 PM   #30
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Just thought I'd put an update here. The old springs were at the end of their life at about 10k miles. Also found an LS7 lifter where the pin was sliding out of the roller. Caught that just in time. There was a small groove in the head causing it to burn coolant. Overall it was a great time to take it apart. There was a little damage to the lifter bore from that pin moving and being stuck in the bore. I was able to clean it up enough with a little work. Definitely glad I took it apart and found that before it wiped out the cam. I did an oil analysis before disassembly and it shows some iron and aluminum wear as well as coolant in the oil.

Heads were milled and all new valves and guides installed with 5 angle valve job. BTR springs and Johnson lifters. I'm anxious to see the next oil sample results to see the difference.
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Old 08-06-2021, 09:07 AM   #31
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Now you know first hand. Most cam packages these shops sell are 10-15k life span before failure with the base packages. Glad you have it sorted out...I believe you will get a lot more longevity out of the new setup.
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:06 AM   #32
Baddawg53
 
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Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
Now you know first hand. Most cam packages these shops sell are 10-15k life span before failure with the base packages. Glad you have it sorted out...I believe you will get a lot more longevity out of the new setup.

You nailed it, 10k miles and it was getting close to a major failure. Lifter going bad and springs getting weak.

The shop who rebuilt the heads highly suggested testing the springs every 25 hours. He also swore by PAC and was hesitant to even install the BTR. I'm sure every engine builder has their preferences.

I'm thinking at 25 hours, probably a dozen track days or so and about yearly I'll take them out and test them, maybe just replace them.
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Old 08-07-2021, 12:54 PM   #33
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I'm surprised to hear the LS7 lifter was on its way out. I'd think that would point to incorrect application or too much/too little valve spring pressure.

Nonetheless, on my previous upgraded motor, I'd install new valve springs each year - the piece of mind was worth the $170. Not even worth checking them...just install new ones.
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Old 08-07-2021, 04:13 PM   #34
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Im not...too much spring pressure and cam lobe intensity for LS7 lifters.

They were designed around beehive springs, titanium valves, and mild cam lobes.

And you don't need to install new valve springs every year if the setup is correct. That is a bit over board...
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Old 12-21-2021, 06:07 PM   #35
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I'm at 21 K miles and will probably go with conical on my mild ramp CamMotion sub .600 cam. It has been 8K since my lifter failure and I went to a custom cam / profile. I did recheck all lash at 4k and found that all the push rods were .020 too short and got a new set from Texas Speed. I'll probably do roller rockers now. I don't know which ones. Harland Sharp or Texas Speed. Max power is about 6400 RPM I shift at 6800 and the fuel cut is 7200 rpm just can do 0-60 in first gear for no reason at all.
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Old 12-21-2021, 06:22 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman View Post
I'll probably do roller rockers now.
why are you wanting roller rockers? they are heavier, especially over the valve.
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Old 12-21-2021, 06:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddawg53 View Post
I've read that post, has me worried about the seats and valves in my heads, as well as the rest of the valve train. I'll have it apart soon and take a good look at them.
How did you gauge the life of your springs to know they were bad?
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Old 12-21-2021, 06:37 PM   #38
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Do we have any relatively cheap options for upgrading valves? I guess considering to get another valve job when you get new ones if you originally ported, although that reminds me I wonder if my machine shop recut mine when I got new seats put in which I guess they would have had to.
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Old 12-21-2021, 07:33 PM   #39
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just checking around and it does not seem there is a conical that I like (too much spring). I want 100K longevity of everything outside of the spring. So I may go with a beehive 130 lbs seat 380 lbs open, may shim for a little more as most can support .625 and I'm sub .600
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Old 12-21-2021, 07:34 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
Do we have any relatively cheap options for upgrading valves? I guess considering to get another valve job when you get new ones if you originally ported, although that reminds me I wonder if my machine shop recut mine when I got new seats put in which I guess they would have had to.
I put Manely Pro Flow, not cheap but crazy expensive.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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Old 12-21-2021, 10:09 PM   #41
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I put Manely Pro Flow, not cheap but crazy expensive.
So I think most everyone usually buys a whole new aftermarket head at once, or at least has their machine shop do a valve guides, seats, cutting job, etc all at once, so I'm not sure the normal process like if say I figured the best next step to lower valvetrain mass would be to upgrade valves, then what would you normally do to the seat to match the new valves? I think I need to find a good machine shop I trust around me instead of paying to ship them back home, since I think I paid like almost 4 or 5 hundred to ship cheapest I could ground.

Also on the same topic, and I think you may have mentioned something about this already, but I think seat and valve material and matching are more critical, so I am assuming people avoid the LT4 valves as a relatively "cheap" upgrade so they don't have to change valve seat material? Also because of that I would assume no LT4 guys are having issues with their stock seats failing? I actually haven't heard or seen (even on the internet) other people with stock LT1 valve seat issues.
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Old 12-22-2021, 05:19 AM   #42
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CMitchel17: Only way to check for spring fatigue is to remove them (don't believe one can do on-LT-head checks) and check the pressure. At the price they sell them, I'd rather just start fresh each time.

Ref. Ti valves: I've not heard of a compatibility concern with the seats. Wonder if lower RPM's and/or the softer spring pressures for the supercharged variant might be the benefit. We are considering the factory Ti valves to reduce weight and increase valve float rpm.

Oldman: Little confused with your 'not enough spring' comment toward the beehive? I'm using BTR's valve spring kit (BTR GEN V SPRING KIT WITH .625 LIFT / 1511/5071BH/BB). I'm hoping the same set will be compatible with a new cam (under .600 lift) and rev to 7000 rpm - seems like this would apply to your combination as well?
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