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Old 07-28-2014, 10:54 PM   #1
dreksnot
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Linear gain increases with AGP turbo boost

Turbos and Boost Controllers are cool. This is a great FYI for those interested. For my stock motor setup running 4 to 10psi of boost on my AGP twins, it's a linear gain, 26.1 rwhp per psi boost, 30.9 ft-lbs torque per psi. Can you say EFFICIENT!?!


So, at 5.73psi boost, my RWHP will exactly equal my TORQUE!

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Old 07-29-2014, 11:27 AM   #2
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Yep, my experience as well. I run from 4.35# to 25#. currently set at 16psi which was 1060whp. Anything more is useless on the street.

Turbos and boost control for the most flexibility. Im running a 20CF CO2 bottle so i can run the lightest springs possible and still hit big boost if needed.
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:14 PM   #3
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Man, Bull, with my 4# spring and the AEM controller, I max out at 10.5-11psi. Right now that's fine, as I'm on stock internals. When I'm ready for more, I'll be hitting you up for info.
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:42 PM   #4
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Ditch the 4psi spring. That's crazy low boost and the WG valve can barely hold itself shut with that little seat pressure. If you want to squash out some power in first gear just set some torque management under 'Max Engine Tq. vs RPM vs Gear' to like 500 in first gear. That will pull some timing in first gear only and only once the air volume passed 500lbft tq. But put in at least 7psi worth of spring.

Glad you're happy with the power. The first 1000whp is easy, it's that second 1000 that gets hard.
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
Man, Bull, with my 4# spring and the AEM controller, I max out at 10.5-11psi. Right now that's fine, as I'm on stock internals. When I'm ready for more, I'll be hitting you up for info.
I run a CO2 bottle that controls gate pressure. Thats why i have such a huge range of boost possible.
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGP Turbo View Post
Ditch the 4psi spring.
I am running the entry-level spring for "wifey" mode. But, the more modding I do to the car, the less she desires to drive it. What a shame!

I do have the 8# springs that shipped with the kit. However, I have stock internals and would be afraid to crank up TOO MUCH boost.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:07 PM   #7
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Your in Colorado. You aren't close to the motors limits. 670 is probably ~550 actual. When you get to 650-700rwhp actual you will be 800+ corrected.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:16 PM   #8
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Your in Colorado. You aren't close to the motors limits. 670 is probably ~550 actual. When you get to 650-700rwhp actual you will be 800+ corrected.
That is corrected to sea level. My correction factor is 1.33. So, I'm putting down a lot less to the ground (in reality), like 506rwhp. OUCH! It just looks better corrected.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:56 PM   #9
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Exactly, so turn it up to ~650rwhp like everyone else which would be 865rwhp or so. Even at 650 that isn't pushing it. That is like ~600rwhp or less with a blower as far as motor stress is concerned.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:26 PM   #10
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Ok, Nick. I can visualize what you're saying. In CO our actual rwhp pavement numbers are about 25-30% less than the same car at sea level. Combustion (pressures) are still occurring in the engine but are you saying they're less dramatic up here than at sea level? My 700rwhp car (corrected to sea level) and actually hitting 525rwhp in CO can be cranked up to 700rwhp (hitting the pavement) up here, but corrected to sea-level sounding stupidly at 930rwhp? == it's the same stress on the motor??? Are you saying we can turn up the boost to, say, 17psi from 10psi and still be safe???
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:17 AM   #11
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Your motor only cares about actual power. SAE correction is a theoretical power on a 77F day at zero vapor pressure at 25.8mmhg barometer at sealevel. Your pistons/rods/fuel system don't care about what the car may make in those conditions, only what the car actually makes. If you want to be super safe, turn the boost up until it hits 600-620rwhp uncorrected. That is like making 550rwhp on a blower car at sealevel which you would be hard pressed to find anyone who thinks that isn't extremely conservative. If it was my car I would dial it in for ~650rwhp, and then use the boost controller to back it down to whatever you want.

So yes, crank it to ~650 actual, makes 850+ corrected then go brag to everyone about having the stock shortblock record even if it is just through the magic of high elevation/corrections.

I made 914rwhp in Utah with a 16% correction so ~800rwhp actual. Down here I made 1048rwhp with a 1.00 correction so it was actually making 1048. There is a huge difference I can tell you that.
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