04-09-2021, 01:38 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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Triple Pump Staging
So I'm finally pulling the trigger on upgrading my fuel system to a triple pump setup. It's more fuel than I need right now, even with a smaller pulley and the occasional tank of E85, but I only want to do this once. I'm on my own for powering the pumps and have been tossing around a few ideas, from off-the-shelf (like Fore FC3) to complete DIY so I'm looking for a little input.
In my research (https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...-deatschwerks/) they actually ran two pumps full time as the primary with the third pump triggered by a boost switch. The argument being that if one of the primary pumps fails, the car is still drivable and, at least at my power level, not likely to go lean even under full throttle. Any thoughts on why or why not that is a good idea, and how would you do it?
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
Last edited by larry_g; 04-09-2021 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Found the article |
04-09-2021, 06:09 PM | #2 |
Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,603
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Many run 1 then have 2&3 power-on when 4-5psi Hobbs engages.
I've tried that, then I've tried 2 like you're mentioning, with 3 coming on with the 4-5psi Hobbs. It really depends on your expectations. I researched if 2 always-on would create too much heat. I don't think so. I'm still pondering to continue to run just 1 but I did notice that if I get into it, I start getting close to maxing the pump capacity "while" waiting for the other 2 to power on (takes approx 0.4-0.5secs). Could be dangerous. That all probably didn't help any, did it.
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In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 | AGP 65/65 TT | BTR Equalizer Intake | Trickflow 245cc cathedral | BTR custom cam | Cortex EBC | n2mb WOT | ID-1700x | Brisk GR12S | RPM Lv 7 TR6060 | AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel | Monster LT1-S Triple | 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles | Hurst Line Lock | MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle | ADM solid subframe mounts | Prothane Motor Mounts | Revshift Poly Trans insert | Moreno camber/caster plates |
04-09-2021, 06:28 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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I daily mine so I kinda like the idea of redundancy being less likely to leave me stranded somewhere. It's probably what I'm going to do unless someone comes up with a really good argument as to why I shouldn't.
I guess if I build my own control I could always use one primary, the secondary on around 2-5 psi and then the third on over 8 psi. The downside is more potential points of failure. Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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04-09-2021, 10:57 PM | #4 |
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I run a triple setup on my Avalanche. One is always on, 2nd comes on @2psi, the 3rd @5psi.
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04-10-2021, 06:56 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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Quote:
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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04-10-2021, 08:06 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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You don't need a controller, you can wire in (2) different Hobbs switches (one for each pump to come on at different times). Or both pumps on one Hobbs switch so they come on at the same time.
I was running a dual pump set up (walbro 485s). Second pump came on at 1-2 psi and the second pump was also on a boost a pump. Zero issues at 1200whp. My ZR1 has (2) auxilliary 044 pumps. One comes on at 8 psi, the 2nd comes on at 12psi. |
04-10-2021, 10:10 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still need to run the Hobbs switches through relays, so you are effectively building your own control. Maybe not a packaged unit but you still have to handle power distribution and fused circuits to do it safely.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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04-10-2021, 11:04 AM | #8 | |
Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,603
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Quote:
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In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 | AGP 65/65 TT | BTR Equalizer Intake | Trickflow 245cc cathedral | BTR custom cam | Cortex EBC | n2mb WOT | ID-1700x | Brisk GR12S | RPM Lv 7 TR6060 | AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel | Monster LT1-S Triple | 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles | Hurst Line Lock | MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle | ADM solid subframe mounts | Prothane Motor Mounts | Revshift Poly Trans insert | Moreno camber/caster plates |
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04-11-2021, 12:26 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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Yes, correct. I was envisioning the Fore controller (which is nice!) But you can replicate its function with relays and Hobbs switches much cheaper.
If you can find someone with Squash pump instructions, they would be helpful in making your own setup. They are dual pump but it would be simple to add another pump to the diagram. |
04-11-2021, 08:25 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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By the time I gather enough quality parts to do the job gracefully, I'm not far from the cost of the Fore. I don't mind paying a bit more for a proven solution, so I have an FC3 on order.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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04-11-2021, 11:13 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Drivers Seat
Posts: 1,904
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Ive heard running two pumps could cause too much heat and consume power that really isnt needed.
What size injector do you plan to run? If its a 1000cc or more it should have plenty of headroom to carry you for that split second until the other two pumps kick in. I set my adj boost switch to kick both pumps on at the first sign of boost. I will admit, i do have some transient fueling that is a little off but its not a big deal. Its a few percent for a split second.
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2011 Camaro SS---SOLD
TMS Dart 427 FED M311s, ESS Tuning G4 Blower, DSX Triple FP Assembly, DSX FF, FIC1300, Mcleod RXT 1200HD, Edlebrock Pro Flo XT 1158whp 1017wtq. 2010 CTS-V A6 - "Stock" SOLD 630whp 658wtq 2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4 waiting for tunes... |
04-11-2021, 11:54 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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I'm currently running ID1050Xs and pretty sure they'll be fine with one pump until 5 psi, even on E85.
The only reason I like the idea of running two primary pumps is the redundancy and safety factor if any one of the three fails. I'm willing to tolerate some inefficiency as long as it isn't dangerous to me or the engine. I'm still looking for a strong argument as to why I absolutely shouldn't run two primary pumps. Parts are on the way, installation will probably start next weekend. Wiring the pumps is one of the last items and it's an easy change between the two setups, literally swapping the trigger wires at the module. Either way, I won't put the rear seat and panels back in until after we're done on the dyno in case we need to make a change. Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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04-11-2021, 01:29 PM | #13 |
Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,603
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I just swapped back to two pumps but running a lower fuel pressure. I noticed as I'd get into boost (and it builds quickly) that my FP would start to lower before #2 and #3 pumps kicked on.
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In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 | AGP 65/65 TT | BTR Equalizer Intake | Trickflow 245cc cathedral | BTR custom cam | Cortex EBC | n2mb WOT | ID-1700x | Brisk GR12S | RPM Lv 7 TR6060 | AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel | Monster LT1-S Triple | 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles | Hurst Line Lock | MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle | ADM solid subframe mounts | Prothane Motor Mounts | Revshift Poly Trans insert | Moreno camber/caster plates |
04-11-2021, 02:10 PM | #14 | |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 826
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Quote:
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
__________________
830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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